VittlesVamp

The Best Apple Pie In Amsterdam

It had been nearly a decade since I'd been to Amsterdam.

And, ever since I took that trip I'd a soft spot in my heart for the Apple Pie at Winkel 43. It's often regaled as the best in the city. I even searched for their recipe to make it at home, but ended up deciding it was too much work. Better to fly to Amsterdam for another slice, yes?

Well, after my latest trip to the Dutch capital, there is a new Apple Pie champion that owns that soft spot in my heart - Cafe t'Papeneiland. See that photo above? How can anyone resist it?

Need a closer look? Allow me...

Oh, hot damn.

Literally - hot Dam!

And, if that isn't enough to get you to hightail it over to this 17th Century cafe, let me tell you that the place is cozy beyond measure. Chock-a-block with Delft antiquities, this Dutch "brown bar" embraces you the second you walk through the door.

Need a closer look? Allow me...

Now, if that isn't enough, there is also an historic tale of religious freedom and secret tunnel to go with.

But, in all honesty, the Apple Pie should be quite enough to get you to pay call. More than enough.

Wonder if I can find the recipe...Or maybe I'll just need to wing it back to Amsterdam for another slice, yes?

It's All Greek To Me

Didn't keep my passport tucked away for long after that trip to Rome and Paris. A few weeks later I packed up my bags and flew across the Atlantic once more - this time to Athens.

For years I had heard dreadful tales of the Greek capital. It's grimy. It's ugly. Just see the Acropolis and then quickly get to an island!

But then a few folks whom I trust started telling me a very different tale. One about a burgeoning arts scene and a rising culinary mecca.

Clearly, I had to check it out for myself.

My verdict? Those "few folks that I trust"? After my visit to Athens, I most definitely still trust them.

I know you aren't here to get details on a Rebetika concert that inspired grown women with high heels to link arms and start dancing, the offbeat Greek fashion spied in boutique windows, or the glorious art and antiquities that were on view in museums, galleries and even flea markets. You're here for the food and drink. In Athens, there was plenty.

Bear witness to the photo above. That was a cocktail hour meze repast at Dexameni, a small cafe with outdoor seating at the foot of Lycabettus Hill.

For breakfast? How about Greece's version of a bagel?

This beauty was had in the Psirri neighborhood at a 24/7 bakery called To Koulouri tou Psyri.

Really hungry? How about a pile of freshly grilled lamb chops?

Yaaaaassss! This platter of thinly sliced chops was enjoyed in the garden of a popular family-run paidakia named To Steki Tou Ilia. Those babies were delicious!

And, how about something a little healthy? Don't worry, alongside fresh feta cheese galore, there were vibrant veggies to be had...

Then, of course, you need to off-set all that veg goodness with something sweet. Athens delivered...

This warm, out-of-the-oven slice of Bougatsa Cream Pie from Bougatsadiko Thessaloniki, was eyes-roll-back-into-your-head-time. Seriously. If this place was near my apartment in Brooklyn, it'd be a problem. Thankfully, it is all the way in Greece and is a memory for now and a must-do the next time I return to Athens.

And, I will return to Athens!

Apero Hour Hits Paris

For those of you who aren't aware, not only did I fall down the pandemic rabbit hole of tuning in 6 days a week to watch cookbook author and former pastry chef David Lebovitz shake and stir up Instagram Live "Apero Hours" for several months - but I took it one step further. (Are you surprised? I think not.)

When Paris reopened from lockdown in late May 2020, David Lebovitz declared that he was putting an end to the regular "Apero Hour" series. I understood completely. But was still upset - not just about losing my daily fix of David himself, but because of the others that I had met virtually in the chat box.

Odd to think you can "meet" people in a chat box, but somehow we managed!

Well, when he declared that "Apero Hour" was coming to an end, I suddenly typed up an "Oh, no! We're going to need to set up an IG hub to keep this group together!"

I said it. Now I had to do it. And so, it was done.

I recruited two other "Apero Hour" regulars to join me: one from Portland, Oregon - Heidi, known as @UncommonMuse on Instagram, and the other from Olso, Norway - Judah, known as @StreetofTrees on IG. For 15 months, the three of us each posted one photo a week and a thought starter or such to keep the conversation going.

And so, it went.

We finally decided to have our own "Apero Hour Fans" handle come to a close in September 2021, vowing we'd start it up again whenever the three contributors were able to get together - in Paris.

Just a few weeks ago, we made that happen. The photo above is from our very first lunch all together at Les Rubis in the 2nd ARR. That's a Duck Heart Brochette if you're curious. It was delicious. But, much more importantly, Heidi, Judah and I felt like peas in a pod. In this case, the pod was the City of Lights. More specifically it was Sentier and the incredible foodie wonderland that is Rue Montorgueil...

and Rue du Nil...

Yes, there was pastry...

And, we even left the neighborhood a few times to imbibe...

Quite memorably, the above drinks were sipped at Sister Midnight. Other gorgeous cocktails were had at CopperBay, while bubbly Vouvray Brut was enjoyed at Le Bon Georges.

The pièce de résistance? It happened here...

A trip to Belleville to go to the much-lauded Combat bar. There, we raised a glass (okay, a couple of glasses!) with David Lebovitz and his husband Romain Pellas.

Yes, that's right. That's how we roll.

Tchin-tchin! And, considering the threat of variants still looms large, let me add a - Santé! - for good measure.

Mangiare e Bere a Roma Pt 2

In many ways I had two stays in Rome during my recent trip. First, I was the guest of my friend Tracy in Esquilino. Second, I absconded to a dreamy hotel - the Locarno - near Piazza del Popolo. Decorated in muted jewel tones with an air of the roaring twenties, the hotel made me feel transported. A perfectly made cappuccino in a sunny garden courtyard? That is a perfectly normal breakfast experience. Isabella Rossellini a few tables away? Par for the course at this magical spot.

The days whirled by with a mix of wandering Rome and working until dinnertime - conducting the latter from the Locarno's rooftop lounge.

Not too shabby, right?

And, yes, it is a perfect spot for a nibble. The kitchen wasn't serving upstairs one afternoon, so I took the opportunity to grab a Porchetta Sandwich for lunch and make a picnic of it, computer by my side.

Not a bad office lunch situation, right?

And, what did I do for a big finish? I nabbed a barstool at Il Marchese - a gorgeous bustling spot with a Michelin Bib accolade and an Amaro Bar with nearly 500 labels on offer. Needless to say, the cocktails were spot on...

So was the food - from a half portion of Carbonara to a luscious helping of Steak Tartare, dressed with the sunniest yellow egg yolks on the planet and thinly sliced, pink pickled onions...

And, for dessert? I did dip a spoon into a Pistachio Tiramisu, but the sweets after dessert were particularly sublime...

Così incredibile!

Mangiare e Bere a Roma Pt 1

So, that markets in Rome post was nice - but where is the rest?

I'm sorry to have made you wait. I promise it'll be worth it. Why? Because it was so damn good.

My first evening started with the clinking of glasses. The place? My friend Tracy led me to a spot for locals - Wine Art Di Tiziana Ciampetti E C.- where Tiziana herself presides over a minuscule shop bursting at the seams with bottles of wine. Makeshift tables and folding chairs take up the sidewalk by the store and Esquilino neighbors chatter, drink, and nibble away the evening. Tracy and I could have kept up with the crowd, but she had to run home for a late work event and I had to hightail it over to one of the hottest seats in town - a spot at a restaurant called Retrobottega.

Tracy had insisted that I go and embrace a whirlwind of elegant small plates accompanied by wine pairings. She was absolutely right. The tasting menu delivered a cavalcade of flavors and textures. Favorites included a dish of Sweetbreads with Cauliflower and a gorgeously lush helping of Tagliatelle with a Creamy Saffron-Chicken Ragu...

And, then there were the wines. Oh, yes...

That was a terrific way to cap off my arrival in Rome. And I still had five days to go! I filled them. I filled them with loads of chicories and other bitter greens...

I filled them with a second-hand shopping spree at Borghetto Flaminio Market. I also filled them with a visit to a seafood mecca known as Assunta Madre, where we dined on a sea creature that neither of us could identify...

I filled them with a trip to the "Brooklyn of Rome," a neighborhood called Testaccio, decked out with hipster boutiques and deceptively low-key exteriors to truly expensive apartment buildings. There was also lunch, a seafood lunch at La Torricella that included Tonnarelli with Shrimp and Zucchini...

There was more walking to follow. Thank goodness!

Needed to walk that pasta lunch off, so I could journey the next morning to the city's most beloved pastry stop - Esquilino's own Regoli Pasticceria...

Proof positive that this was the real deal? A real line in front of the place at 9am. A real long line. I waited for over 45 minutes before I was allowed through the door. It was worth it. So worth it. So good. So damn good.

I told you.

A Tale of Two Markets

First of all, let me say that I made it out of the country. Yay! Made it all the way to Rome. And, my first stop after the obligatory espresso? A market.

My stay started at a friend's place in the Esquilino neighborhood, a hodgepodge of ancient relics and vibrant community. That community includes generations' old Italians and immigrants from India, China, Morocco and elsewhere. At moments when passing through the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, I could breath in the aromas of coffee and curry all at once.

Unsurprisingly, the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino was buzzing. My senses were overwhelmed by stands filled with spices and olives...

And, then this seafood stall caught my eye...

I left empty-handed, since lunch at a local trattoria awaited, but I vowed to cook a little while I was in the city. Thankfully, the next day I journeyed to Circus Maximus and visited Campagna Amica. This market had a different feel from the one in Esquilino. The tip off? These at the entrance...

The man wielding a knife at a massive porchetta and loads of pork products vacuum-sealed, ready to go...

Then there was the verdure...

Magnificent! Bellisima! I pounced on some puntarelle, which is almost impossible to find in the States. Radishes were bought. A salad would soon be born. It wasn't major cooking, but with the additions of good Italian olive oil, a few chopped anchovies, and a splash of white wine vinegar, it was delizioso!

Chicago's Galit

I just returned from the Windy City, where I ate very, very well. Evidence is provided here in the form of snapshots taken at a fantabulous dinner at Galit, an award-winning Israeli spot that seriously delivered. (Had no doubt, since my gourmet rambling pal Tatiana had secured the reservation!)

Above, spy the cloud-like Hummus with bits of brisket braised with carrots and cinnamon. Because that couldn't be nearly enough to start us off, a series of small plates followed, including a bowl of mouth puckering Pickled Vegetables...

Heirloom Tomatoes with wood-roasted okra, amba, and Persian lime...

A bowl of creamy Labneh topped with hyssop, sumac, and sesame, alongside bowl of ethereal Baba Ganoush, sprinkled with a torrent of chives...

Gloriously hot, puffy Pita arrived to help us sop it all up...

Next up, a plate of Roasted Beets with Black Garlic Tehina, showered with crispy bits of pumpernickel and dill fronds...

And, we also swooned over Iraqui Kubbeh Halab, which were similar to Italian Arancini rice balls -- in this case, bright saffron rice encasing stewed lamb with a sauce made of blitzed golden raisins and almonds...

Then, this gobsmacking dish arrived...

That flower-strewn beauty was half a Wood-Roasted Cabbage, stuffed with oyster mushrooms and saffron mujadara, surrounded by a deep green chermoula sauce. And, lest we forgot we were meat eaters, there was Smoked Turkey Shwarma with peach amba and carrots...

To finish it all off, White Chocolate and Pistachio Baklava with raspberries and orange water.

Yeah. I ate very, very well in Chicago.

Went To Venice Beach To Figure Out What I Was Missing

Several years ago I was gifted the cookbook from Venice Beach's Gjelina. I remember thumbing through the book and eyeing the gorgeous photos of veggies galore and pizzas a plenty.

Today, I had the opportunity to visit the spot for lunch. It was glorious -- from the Grilled Trumpet Mushrooms with Tarragon Butter, seen above, to the Grilled Pork Neck with Salsa Verde, seen below...

And, brilliantly bringing up the rear was a gorgeous dish of Grilled Peaches with Burrata, Prosciutto, Arugula, and Aged Balsamic...

Now, this was my kind of dessert!

The food was truly delicious.

So, why hadn't I ever cracked open the cookbook to actually test out some of the recipes at home?

Good question and I have a good answer.

Every single one of these dishes was made on a wood-burning grill.

I know you're shocked, but my Brooklyn apartment doesn't come equipped with one. It clearly was a major 'miss' in my kitchen renovation.

One consolation? Open flame isn't completely off the table. I was recently gifted a mini Butane torch. It won't do the job on the pork, but maybe Brûléed Peaches will be on the menu at the next dinner party.

Who Wants To Tartare?

It scares away a lot of people. Red meat alone is enough to put a good number off. Add "raw" to the equation and I most certainly lose a significant amount of the dining audience.

But, dang, if I don't enjoy a good Steak Tartare.

Had one not long ago in Raleigh at Crawford and Son - showered with fresh horseradish and served alongside a mound of potato chips. All in all, a winner. I definitely need to get back to Buvette in the West Village for their rendition.

It's been many years, since I made this gloriously rich dish in my own kitchen. Maybe it's time to tackle it again...But, considering anti-red meat and anti-raw sentiment, not sure who would be game to enjoy it with me.

Could it be you?

Unmitigated Decadence

I have zero control. I know Delta is out there, but I am drawn to restaurants nonetheless. I am fully vaxxed. Know that there are some slight risks -- but at this point I am all in.

I went to Philadelphia and took Mama Vamp (also vaxxed!) for a multicourse extravaganza at Friday, Saturday, Sunday, which included the stellar Beet Cappelletti with Chive and Nasturtium Honey. Eyes roll back in your head time!

Then I went to the deepest darkest corners of the West Village for dinner with a friend at the Austrian powerhouse restaurant Wallse, where we tucked into these Smoked Trout Planshinken with glee...

There have been meals out with foie gras, truffles, and seared scallops -- and then there was this genius Tuna Tartare with Fava Beans and Agretti at Prospect Park's LaLou...

And a trip to Raleigh-Durham afforded me the opportunity to visit Saltbox Seafood Joint for a gargantuan Grouper Roll with all the fixins...

...including some otherworldy Honeyed Hushpuppies. Those puppies were a problem.

Have I cooked? Rarely. I have been throwing together food rather than properly cooking. I feel a longing to be served. It's where I am at. I am owning it. And, trust me, I will be cooking full force again. Just need to strike a balance.

We'll see how I do on the balance beam...