VittlesVamp

Christmas In July

I just came back from a few weeks in Philadelphia and in addition to grabbing a coveted table at the OG location of Laser Wolf, I was lucky enough to snag a reservation with friends at South Philly's River Twice during their weeklong "Christmas in July" dinner series.

Christmas in July?

Does that mean Egg Nog, Roasted Goose and Fruitcake in 90 degree weather? Thankfully, not.

It is a series of evenings in which River Twice's celebrated Chef and Owner Randy Rucker pairs up with other local Philly-area chefs to create incredible one-night-only dinners. The evening I attended, he teamed up with Chef Alex Kemp of one of the city's newest hot spots, My Loup.

The 7-course dinner was nothing less than stupendous. (Yes, I said stupendous. I could have said un-freakin-believable, but this was an elegant repast. I felt the use of a thesaurus was in order!)

First up was a sweet Raw Scallop with Tomato Water, Finger Lime, Verbena Oil, Preserved Ground Cherries and Currants. Snapshot of the glorious crudo is above.

Below, is a photo of the wholly moan-worthy second course - Beef Tartare with Fried Oysters and Romano Beans...

It took "surf and turf" to another level.

Next up was Heirloom Corn Grits with Miso-Mustard Smoked Maine Unagi and Summer Truffle...

Yaaaassssss!

And, because good, fresh corn is plentiful, that dish was followed by Skate Cheeks with Corn, Tomato and Basil...

That sauce!

Maine returned to East Passyunk with a piece of seared Wild Maine Halibut with Lightly Dried Tomatoes, Sea Beans, Kombu Butter and Golden Ossetra Caviar...

A little caviar is always a fine idea. Yup!

And, for the final savory course, the twosome of Chefs Rucker and Kemp delivered big time...

Braised Rabbit with Foie Gras, Carrots and Egg Noodles.

Simply using my words will never do this dish justice. Instead, imagine a wide smile and my eyes rolling back into my head.

Mmmmmmmmmm...

But then there was one more course before we set course back home to dream of sugarplums (or in my case, that Braised Rabbit).

Corn took the stage again with a Blueberry and Corn Tart...

A few bites in and that dinner was tied up with an ever-so-tasty bow.

Needless to say, I am ready to book a res for next year's "Christmas in July." It might just be my new favorite holiday season!

Imported from Philadelphia

The idea that Philadelphia is a force on the New York restaurant scene is funny to me. Then again, not so much.

I mean, Friday Saturday Sunday just captured the Best Restaurant in America nod from The James Beard Awards.

And, recently hitting Chef Michael Solomonov's Brooklyn outpost of Kfar, I was easily convinced that hyper-critical New York diners would fall in love with his modern Israeli menus.

Just look at that gorgeous bowl of creamy Hummus topped with a cascade of Crispy Mushrooms. Take a gander at that fresh-out-of-the-oven pita.

Thinking about making a reservation?

Take a long look at the snapshot below and you'll think no longer.

That's a Flintstone-sized Bone-In Short Rib with Amba and Passionfruit, served up with Braised Cabbage in a Tomato Amba.

Need to apologize to my pescatarian and vegetarian friends for that photo. Suggest that they don't scroll further, lest they see...

That.

In Philly now and paid call on Solomonov's Laser Wolf restaurant in the Fishtown neighborhood. It is impossible to get into the Williamsburg branch, unless you want a 10:30pm table. I felt triumphant scoring a 7:45pm res on a Monday night at the original location.

Yes, that Bone-In Short Rib should look familiar. Yes, it was large enough to be served at Fred Flintstone's table. And, just to make sure that there was enough meat on hand, we had two skewers of Koobideh, made of ground lamb and chicken.

By the way, did I mention the platter of 10 Salatim that landed on table before the meat even arrived? Cucumbers with Harissa, Moroccan Carrots, Babaganoush, Lebanese Potato Salad - need I go on?

Yeah. I can see why this is a hot ticket spot in New York.

What will be imported from Philadelphia next? I look forward to finding out.

Off-Site Down East

That is quite the view, huh? Pretty idyllic?

What could possibly make this vista off of the coast of Maine even more picturesque? Hmmm...

Yowsa! And, this fine readers, was the first meal of a company off-site in Maine. This perfect scene - and glorious Lobster Roll - was had at the Bite Into Maine food truck in Cape Elizabeth's Fort Williams Park, a stone's throw from our final destination of Portland.

Was more seafood part of the weeklong stay? Hellz-to-the-yes!

Think briny oysters, tasting like the saltwater from whence they came...

Think beer too, with Portland chock full of breweries making funky farmhouse ales and saisons and sours aplenty. Of course there was work to be done, so beer wasn't a daytime thing. But, even more seafood was had at all hours, whenever available. Case in point...

...Deviled Eggs with House Smoked Mussels served during a working lunch at Terlingua.

To be honest, nothing ever really topped that first Lobster Roll.

That said, I strongly believe we didn't hit enough seafood spots in and around Portland to be sure that there isn't a better shellfish option in town.

Clearly, will need another off-site Down East very, very soon. My work there is far from done!

Montreal Off The Map

I am a planner - especially when it comes to travel. No, I'm not scheduling my days when I am traveling. I just like to be prepared. Very prepared.

I make maps - Google Maps to be precise. Months before a trip I start researching everything from top restaurants to Mom & Pop shops to art galleries to local coffee spots to the closest emergency care, and lay them all on a map of the area. It is my way of learning about a place, sort of kicking off a trip, before I get my feet firmly planted there. And, yes, I do make a few plans off of my maps - mostly restaurant reservations. (Shocker!)

Needless to say, a long weekend with a friend in Montreal called for a map and reservations. That said, we thought we'd get there Thursday night and simply grab dinner at our hotel.

We needed to think again.

Stepping into the hotel lobby, our ears were accosted with thundering THUMPA-THUMPA electronica coming from the restaurant and bar. It was a scene. Way too loud and way too much.

I quickly tried to consider other options on the map, realizing that the restaurants I'd identified were probably fully booked. Suddenly, I remembered a spot that had sounded interested, but hadn't made it onto the map. Why? It was Italian. Why travel to Quebec for Italian? Still, the restaurant had sounded fun - and adult. No THUMPA-THUMPA. I asked the concierge (in a louder than usual conversation to be heard above the din) and he agreed that it was a good pick. He made a reservation for us.

The restaurant was called Gia Vin & Grill. It was off-the-beaten path, off to the side by a Home Depot. Getting out of the car in the fairly desolate area, I questioned the choice. One step inside though, and I questioned no longer. It was a fantastically warm and bustling warehouse space. The elegant marble bar at the entrance had a long rectangular well filled with ice and bottles of wine, natural wine. We sidled up as we waited for our table and within minutes we were talking to Larry Fiset, sommelier and partner, who not only directed us to some incredible wine, but also made sure we would be ordering the "must-haves" on the menu. When conversation turned to the culinary world at-large, I mentioned by podcast, interviewing cookbook authors. Larry's eyes lit up. I had to meet another of Gia's owners, Ryan Gray - who just happened to be having a book hitting shelves in a few weeks. Greetings were had, a podcast interview was discussed, conversation continued to flow and so did the wine.

Then we were taken to our table and the "must haves" began to show up...

It was the end of Snow Crab season in Quebec. This was unlike any kind of sweet meat crab I have ever had the privilege of eating. Heaven. Crustacean heaven.

The rest of the meal was just as brilliant - from Morel Mushrooms and Peas in a rich Spring Broth to Tagliatelle with Veal Bolognese.

People need to start visiting Quebec for the Italian food!

And, then Larry sat down with us. Where else were we planning to dine when we were in town? He approved of one pick, but less the other - and insisted that we let him text a friend at a restaurant we needed to try. It is a small spot, but he would try to wrangle us a reservation. Minutes later he returned with a wide smile, letting us know that we had a 9pm reservation on Saturday at Salle Climatisée. We smiled wide in return. In truth, I think we were smiling wide throughout dinner and even on the drive back to the hotel.

On Saturday we headed into the restaurant and were struck by the compact dining room, low-key vibe and warm welcome from the owner-sommelier that Larry had connected us with. We were seated at the counter overlooking the minuscule kitchen with chefs working like consummate jugglers, making the space work for them as they sauteed, fried, seared, and plated.

Yay! Dinner and a show!

And, then there was the wine. Such good wine. A white from Umbria - Collecapretta Buscaia - was particularly gorgeous, combining citrus with a floral nose and a brackish finish. It was a great accompaniment to the market-driven fare that followed...

Oh, yes! Local Halibut with an Herb-Pernod Sauce and delicately smoked New Potatoes.

Let me say yes again - this time for the Chicken...

This beauty was served with Morels and Radishes.

Dessert was a Sticky Pudding that had us humming with pleasure as we exited - so damn glad for the hotel lobby's obnoxious THUMPA-THUMPA and where it led us.

So, have I decided to skip the whole Google Maps rigamarole for future travels? Nope. But, I will be looking forward to going off-map to see what adventures and tastes await.

The Sandwich That Inspired A Seder

I wasn't thinking about the 10 Commandments when I was in Rome last month. I wasn't even contemplating a Passover seder. But there was a sandwich that I had at Testaccio Market that stuck with me -- and made me want to make a soul-satisfying Beef Brisket when I got back to Brooklyn.

The sandwich in question was from the much-lauded Mordi e Vai. Guiliano Esposito, one of the family-owned stall's street food stars, poses above. A photo of his father is directly behind -- retired butcher Sergio Esposito.

The butchery cred is key. Here, the meat is everything. In particular, the Allesso di Scottona (aka simmered Brisket). Utter simplicity. Meat and bread. It was glorious...

And, so returning from Rome, when I started toying with the idea of bringing friends together to share in my Maxwell House Haggadahs and bowls brimming with homemade Matzoh Ball Soup, I knew Brisket was going to be the main.

A gorgeous slab of beefy beauty, slow baked in a Dutch Oven for 4 hours is currently sitting in my fridge -- because Brisket is always better a couple of days later.

I can't wait to dive in. I am resisting grabbing a slice for a snack. That said, I expect that denying myself will pay off on two fronnts. First, there will be plenty on hand for a fantastic repast tomorrow after we do a bit of seder-ing. Second, there will be enough leftover meat to make for an Allesso di Scottana sandwich on this side of the Atlantic.

May my Pesach wishes come true!

Artichoke Amore in Rome

Technically, it was still winter when I arrived in Rome, but the bright blue sky and budding trees seemed to argue with Mother Nature -- and so did the produce on display. Stalls were brimming with springtime goodness, from strawberries to asparagus to Rome's most beloved vegetable -- the artichoke.

Adore the snapshot above, taken during a tour of Testaccio Market. Isn't she lovely? Take a long lingering look at her.

Now, take a look at the artichoke in abundance...

Talk about abbondanza! Carciofi were piled high throughout the market and they appeared on every trattoria and ristorante menu I encountered.

Coratella Con Carciofi by that bar at Tram Tram in the bohemian San Lorenzo district? Yes, please...

Carciofi alla Giudia at the elegant il Marchese? Absolutely...

If a man wants to win my heart, bring me a full-on bouquet of these beauties. I'd call that romance Roman-style.

Artichoke amore.

Carciofi carnalità.

It's real. It's wonderful. And, it's best enjoyed in Roma.

Vittles in Venice

When I have dreamt of Venice, I've imagined venturing through alleyways and over bridges, taking in the romance and beauty of the city's canals. I have also thought of great art and the majesty (and many pigeons) of St. Mark's Square.

But, beyond a fizzy glass of Prosecco from the Veneto, I haven't had a specific Venetian culinary craving in mind.

That was a mistake. One that has been rectified.

I have one word for you: cicchetti.

It is a word doesn't describe a single dish. It describes a veritable smorgasbord of them. We're talking about Venetian tapas.

Think thick slices of toasted bread topped with delights that range from sweet-and-sour Sardine en Saor to thinly sliced Mortadella dotted with pistachios to mounds of White Anchovies to aged Sopressa salami with pickled Cipolline Onions. And, then lets add in some fried meatballs called Polpette, and Creamed Baccala on Polenta, Hard-Boiled Eggs halved and skewered with Roasted Plum Tomatoes and Basil.

Bear witness to a typical cicchetti spread at a neighborhood Venetian wine bar...

This was the selection at a spot called Ostaria Al Ponte in Cannaregio. Impressive display - and not expensive. Quite the combo! Order up a plateful of these snacks, add a glass of the aforementioned Prosecco, and call it dinner. A very good dinner at that!

Now, of course I couldn't resist hitting somewhere a bit more grand. And a grand time was exactly what I got at a local Michelin-starred restaurant called Local. Walking in the restaurant door, the kitchen was immediately on full display behind a wall of glass -- and the very handsome kitchen staff was on full display too, more than happy to wave and smile as I walked in with a friend for dinner.

For a Michelin-starred restaurant, there wasn't a whiff of pretension in the dining room. It was warm, airy and welcoming.

Yes. This was a great choice. We settled in, chatted with both the charming owner Benedetta and the sommelier Manuel and knew we were in very capable hands.

What followed was a tasting menu with wine pairings that was - in a word - stellar. The standout dish? Risotto with Smoked Butter, Eel, and Herring Caviar...

The meal was capped off with a tray of elixirs that I feared was burn-your-throat Grappa...

...but instead were bottles of Capovilla Fruit Distillations, all of which we were invited to nose before settling on a glass each - apricot for me and elderflower for my dinner companion.

No breakfast, lunch or dinner came close to topping our evening at Local.

That said, stopping for gelato at Suso...

...and a morning Macchiato standing at a coffee bar next to a few Gondoliers were memorable to say the least. Grocery shopping at the Rialto Market was a highlight as well.

But as soon as I was settling in to Venezia, Rome beckoned. Who was I to resist?

Haute Indian Fall In London

I went to London. Yes, I had a pint at a pub. I also experienced a swanky rendition of high tea. But, the real culinary treat was the incredible upscale Indian fare.

I was staying in Marylebone, so I did pop into Chiltern Firehouse for a cocktail (or two) before my first gourmet Indian supper. Cocktails were grand. The scene was grander. Yet, I was quite content to wander a few blocks away to the Michelin-starred Trishna. The menu was overwhelming. I decided to go for the tasting to try a range of the offerings. A gorgeous tray of Papads with three Chutneys was first up (pictured above) and considering how I devoured this Indian version of "chips and dips," I knew I'd made the right call.

A dish of Kerala Prawn Curry was a particular favorite of the evening, stewed with tamarind and coconut...

And then Dev Patel walked in.

He was just as striking as the food - maybe more so. OK, definitely more so. The rest of the night is a happy blur.

Clearly, I was going to need to go out for high-end Indian again, before I left London. For my next excursion, I visited Pahli Hill, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand nod. This time, no Dev Patel. But, the evening was lovely nonetheless. Standout dish? Most definitely the Papati Chat...

...a glorious plate of crispies with yogurt, tomato, tamarind, Delicata squash, mint and pomegranate seeds.

Now, I have had some great Indian food in the States - in NJ in particular - but nothing that has ever reached the stellar heights of haute Indian in London. If you've found somewhere that could compete on that score, please drop me a line! I am so in!

New Finds In Lisbon

Yes, when I am lucky enough to visit somewhere more than once, I adore returning to old haunts and fabulous favorites. But, there is still something in the depths of my food-obsessed soul that yearns to uncover the new.

Now, I didn't think I would actually "discover" anything that wasn't on the radar of others during my latest trip to Lisbon. That being said, did end up following the advice of Culinary Backstreets and nabbed myself a reservation at a fairly new hot spot - Tasca Baldracca - a very cool, casual restaurant in Mouraria. It comes equipped with an oversized chalkboard to share today's menu, heavily tattooed owners who can't wait to pour you a glass of wine that will put a smile on your face, and just enough attitude to make sure you know that you've been somewhere special.

And, the food? AHH-MAZING!

After a glass of red that had me at "hello," I kept with the red theme - in this case with red meat...

This is unequivocally the finest Steak Tartare I have ever had. It was served with puffy, fried batons of pastry, so you could scoop up the raw goodness and spoon it into a bit of pastry for a contrast of flavors and textures. Add a bit of the umami-rich anchovy mayo or house-fermented mustard and it was over the top.

Next up, I went for something cooked...

This Roasted Suckling Pig had a crackling that balanced crisp with a touch of fatty chew. The meat was beyond tender. The fennel and orange salad alongside had a handful of chili peppers, and the heat made the whole dish come together beautifully.

And, who was I to say no to dessert?

Yes! The chalkboard said Leite Creme de Doce de Liete - and I knew that a custard of what we call Dulce de Leche would be a lovely finish. When one of the owners plunked down a glass and a whole bottle of Moscatel to go with, I knew that this was less of a finish and more of a finale.

It was an incredible meal. I could have ended the night there. But, I didn't.

Just steps away there was a "Basque-Italian" bar called Quattro Teste that called to me. The room was elegant, yet cozy. Strangely, it was empty at first, but within a few minutes avid cocktail fans started to make their way in. Thankfully, I had an opportunity to speak with owner/bartender Alf before the place got too busy and met his partner and wife Marta as well. One G&T later, I was ready to try one of their own concoctions...

The Piemontese was a cocktail to love - Cucielo Rosso vermouth, Stravecchio Branca brandy, Nardini Elixir de China, and Izarra Groc. It was an aromatic, bitter nightcap that capped me off brilliantly.

No surprise here if Tasca Baldracca and Quattro Teste end up on my "must return" list whenever I am next in Lisbon.

Return To Lisbon

I may have come to Lisbon for work, but conference schmonference - I felt exhilarated to return. The sun was out. The Vino Verde flowed. I needed to visit some of my favorite spots. Staying in Principe Real, the Pavilhão Chinês was a first stop, chockablock with curiosities and an air of worn elegance, I couldn't wait to hit the bar and order up a G&T...

The drinks aren't really the point there, but the swirl of oddball collectibles and memorabilia, coupled with chandeliers and floor to ceiling art, make it a the perfect perch for a before-dinner tipple.

Where after? A taxi to Belem to the newly spiffed-up Nunes Real Marisqueira was a solid pick. See this massive shrimp?

Incredibly sweet and tender. There was a cavalcade of other seafood delights - including a platter overflowing with two different types of fresh shrimp. These were smaller, steamed and chilled, ready for peeling and dipping into garlicky aioli.

How do you say "Yaaaassss!!!" in Portuguese?

And, Nunes wasn't my only "must" place for seafood. The Sea Me outpost at Time Out Market was another favorite that warranted a return visit...

The Seared Sardine Nigiri and the Cod Nigiri with Toasted Almonds are justly famous. Melt-in-your-mouth doesn't even begin to do them justice.

Coffee was also had. Both Copenhagen Coffee Lab and Fabrica Coffee Roasters rival for my affections. But for the lauded dessert of Lisbon, the Pasteis de Nata?

I was all in with Manteigaria's burnished custard beauties, still warm from the oven.

So good.

There is something undeniably warming about returning to places like these - culinary gems, if ever there were.

But don't be mistaken. New hot spots were discovered on the trip as well.

Hold tight. Details are forthcoming...