VittlesVamp

Vittles in Venice

When I have dreamt of Venice, I've imagined venturing through alleyways and over bridges, taking in the romance and beauty of the city's canals. I have also thought of great art and the majesty (and many pigeons) of St. Mark's Square.

But, beyond a fizzy glass of Prosecco from the Veneto, I haven't had a specific Venetian culinary craving in mind.

That was a mistake. One that has been rectified.

I have one word for you: cicchetti.

It is a word doesn't describe a single dish. It describes a veritable smorgasbord of them. We're talking about Venetian tapas.

Think thick slices of toasted bread topped with delights that range from sweet-and-sour Sardine en Saor to thinly sliced Mortadella dotted with pistachios to mounds of White Anchovies to aged Sopressa salami with pickled Cipolline Onions. And, then lets add in some fried meatballs called Polpette, and Creamed Baccala on Polenta, Hard-Boiled Eggs halved and skewered with Roasted Plum Tomatoes and Basil.

Bear witness to a typical cicchetti spread at a neighborhood Venetian wine bar...

This was the selection at a spot called Ostaria Al Ponte in Cannaregio. Impressive display - and not expensive. Quite the combo! Order up a plateful of these snacks, add a glass of the aforementioned Prosecco, and call it dinner. A very good dinner at that!

Now, of course I couldn't resist hitting somewhere a bit more grand. And a grand time was exactly what I got at a local Michelin-starred restaurant called Local. Walking in the restaurant door, the kitchen was immediately on full display behind a wall of glass -- and the very handsome kitchen staff was on full display too, more than happy to wave and smile as I walked in with a friend for dinner.

For a Michelin-starred restaurant, there wasn't a whiff of pretension in the dining room. It was warm, airy and welcoming.

Yes. This was a great choice. We settled in, chatted with both the charming owner Benedetta and the sommelier Manuel and knew we were in very capable hands.

What followed was a tasting menu with wine pairings that was - in a word - stellar. The standout dish? Risotto with Smoked Butter, Eel, and Herring Caviar...

The meal was capped off with a tray of elixirs that I feared was burn-your-throat Grappa...

...but instead were bottles of Capovilla Fruit Distillations, all of which we were invited to nose before settling on a glass each - apricot for me and elderflower for my dinner companion.

No breakfast, lunch or dinner came close to topping our evening at Local.

That said, stopping for gelato at Suso...

...and a morning Macchiato standing at a coffee bar next to a few Gondoliers were memorable to say the least. Grocery shopping at the Rialto Market was a highlight as well.

But as soon as I was settling in to Venezia, Rome beckoned. Who was I to resist?

Haute Indian Fall In London

I went to London. Yes, I had a pint at a pub. I also experienced a swanky rendition of high tea. But, the real culinary treat was the incredible upscale Indian fare.

I was staying in Marylebone, so I did pop into Chiltern Firehouse for a cocktail (or two) before my first gourmet Indian supper. Cocktails were grand. The scene was grander. Yet, I was quite content to wander a few blocks away to the Michelin-starred Trishna. The menu was overwhelming. I decided to go for the tasting to try a range of the offerings. A gorgeous tray of Papads with three Chutneys was first up (pictured above) and considering how I devoured this Indian version of "chips and dips," I knew I'd made the right call.

A dish of Kerala Prawn Curry was a particular favorite of the evening, stewed with tamarind and coconut...

And then Dev Patel walked in.

He was just as striking as the food - maybe more so. OK, definitely more so. The rest of the night is a happy blur.

Clearly, I was going to need to go out for high-end Indian again, before I left London. For my next excursion, I visited Pahli Hill, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand nod. This time, no Dev Patel. But, the evening was lovely nonetheless. Standout dish? Most definitely the Papati Chat...

...a glorious plate of crispies with yogurt, tomato, tamarind, Delicata squash, mint and pomegranate seeds.

Now, I have had some great Indian food in the States - in NJ in particular - but nothing that has ever reached the stellar heights of haute Indian in London. If you've found somewhere that could compete on that score, please drop me a line! I am so in!

New Finds In Lisbon

Yes, when I am lucky enough to visit somewhere more than once, I adore returning to old haunts and fabulous favorites. But, there is still something in the depths of my food-obsessed soul that yearns to uncover the new.

Now, I didn't think I would actually "discover" anything that wasn't on the radar of others during my latest trip to Lisbon. That being said, did end up following the advice of Culinary Backstreets and nabbed myself a reservation at a fairly new hot spot - Tasca Baldracca - a very cool, casual restaurant in Mouraria. It comes equipped with an oversized chalkboard to share today's menu, heavily tattooed owners who can't wait to pour you a glass of wine that will put a smile on your face, and just enough attitude to make sure you know that you've been somewhere special.

And, the food? AHH-MAZING!

After a glass of red that had me at "hello," I kept with the red theme - in this case with red meat...

This is unequivocally the finest Steak Tartare I have ever had. It was served with puffy, fried batons of pastry, so you could scoop up the raw goodness and spoon it into a bit of pastry for a contrast of flavors and textures. Add a bit of the umami-rich anchovy mayo or house-fermented mustard and it was over the top.

Next up, I went for something cooked...

This Roasted Suckling Pig had a crackling that balanced crisp with a touch of fatty chew. The meat was beyond tender. The fennel and orange salad alongside had a handful of chili peppers, and the heat made the whole dish come together beautifully.

And, who was I to say no to dessert?

Yes! The chalkboard said Leite Creme de Doce de Liete - and I knew that a custard of what we call Dulce de Leche would be a lovely finish. When one of the owners plunked down a glass and a whole bottle of Moscatel to go with, I knew that this was less of a finish and more of a finale.

It was an incredible meal. I could have ended the night there. But, I didn't.

Just steps away there was a "Basque-Italian" bar called Quattro Teste that called to me. The room was elegant, yet cozy. Strangely, it was empty at first, but within a few minutes avid cocktail fans started to make their way in. Thankfully, I had an opportunity to speak with owner/bartender Alf before the place got too busy and met his partner and wife Marta as well. One G&T later, I was ready to try one of their own concoctions...

The Piemontese was a cocktail to love - Cucielo Rosso vermouth, Stravecchio Branca brandy, Nardini Elixir de China, and Izarra Groc. It was an aromatic, bitter nightcap that capped me off brilliantly.

No surprise here if Tasca Baldracca and Quattro Teste end up on my "must return" list whenever I am next in Lisbon.

Return To Lisbon

I may have come to Lisbon for work, but conference schmonference - I felt exhilarated to return. The sun was out. The Vino Verde flowed. I needed to visit some of my favorite spots. Staying in Principe Real, the Pavilhão Chinês was a first stop, chockablock with curiosities and an air of worn elegance, I couldn't wait to hit the bar and order up a G&T...

The drinks aren't really the point there, but the swirl of oddball collectibles and memorabilia, coupled with chandeliers and floor to ceiling art, make it a the perfect perch for a before-dinner tipple.

Where after? A taxi to Belem to the newly spiffed-up Nunes Real Marisqueira was a solid pick. See this massive shrimp?

Incredibly sweet and tender. There was a cavalcade of other seafood delights - including a platter overflowing with two different types of fresh shrimp. These were smaller, steamed and chilled, ready for peeling and dipping into garlicky aioli.

How do you say "Yaaaassss!!!" in Portuguese?

And, Nunes wasn't my only "must" place for seafood. The Sea Me outpost at Time Out Market was another favorite that warranted a return visit...

The Seared Sardine Nigiri and the Cod Nigiri with Toasted Almonds are justly famous. Melt-in-your-mouth doesn't even begin to do them justice.

Coffee was also had. Both Copenhagen Coffee Lab and Fabrica Coffee Roasters rival for my affections. But for the lauded dessert of Lisbon, the Pasteis de Nata?

I was all in with Manteigaria's burnished custard beauties, still warm from the oven.

So good.

There is something undeniably warming about returning to places like these - culinary gems, if ever there were.

But don't be mistaken. New hot spots were discovered on the trip as well.

Hold tight. Details are forthcoming...

Almeja

How to start my first dinner in Porto? There was no question: Port Tonico.

The place? A stylish downtown bistro called Almeja.

The food? A delicious tasting menu that had me at "hello"...

That "hello" came in the form of Gordal Olives stuffed with anchovies, served with a scoop of intense Lemon Sorbet.

Well, hello!

A series of spectacular tastes followed, including a rich chicken broth, accompanied by bite-sized Chicken Pies. Then there was Toasted Pig's Head Terrine with escabeche and apple...

Bread was served with fermented butter and an olive oil that I was tempted to drink from a glass. A twirl of Green Beans came with a pumpkin puree, fried egg, and fragrant green curry...

A pristine piece of Yellowtail was served with shucked cockles, atop cuscos, bathed in a saffron-citrus sauce...

A melt-in-your-mouth piece of Alejento Pork came with an almond cream and salsify. And, then there was a very curious dessert of Sweet Curry with Coconut Sorbet...

And, to gild the lily, a riff on a Banoffee with frozen white chocolate yogurt and a drizzle of warm toffee sauce finished things off with a glass of Tawny Port.

It was quite the greeting to Lisbon's sister to the North. Talk about a howdy!

Trying Summer Travel

You've all seen the articles and news clips of travel gone wrong this summer. Witness lines that go on for miles at typically efficient airports and a veritable sea of lost luggage at others. It's ugly out there.

So, I decided to keep my passport locked away this summer, instead visiting friends in different parts of the States: Seattle, Portland, and Detroit. Was a good plan -- in part.

Did my flights go horribly awry?

Nope.

My life did.

First up was a client work crisis that started on the weekend of 4th of July. We're talking non-stop, relentless, strategic, detailed, high-alert stuff. And, that might have been OK, if not for....

Covid.

Yes, I got Covid. Been vaxxed and boosted, but still had it bad. Barreled through the crisis work despite utter exhaustion, napping in-between Zoom meetings where possible, hoping I could go on my trip 10 days later. I made it through my 10 days of quarantine, got on the plane to Seattle -- but the crisis communications emergency continued unabated -- now with the fun-filled twist of primary players being in London on GMT when I was on Pacific time.

Fantastic.

Thankfully, even with minimal sleep, I was able to see friends for a bit of beer tasting and a brief sail in Elliott Bay. We also regaled in a glorious dinner at a popular Korean-inspired hot spot called Revel. The restaurant's Short Rib Wontons with fried garlic and chili oil are pictured above. Still thinking about them, as well as the kitchen's deeply satisfying Spicy Miso Rice Cakes sautéed with pork belly and bits of kale.

When I got on a train to head to Portland the next evening, I was hopeful that things would settle down on the work front. No such luck. Consolation prize? Seeing friends, of course -- and also hitting the newly opened Pacific Standard for cocktails and Canard for comfort food with innovative twists and turns. The latter included the chef's famous Duck Stack as well as this brilliant Charred Cabbage Salad with sliced peaches, toasted pine nuts, and a shower of Parmesan...

Delicious as it was, I was tuckered out. My red-eye flight to Detroit a couple days later didn't help. But, more friends awaited. And, so did a visit to Detroit's Eastern Market, as well as socializing at several house parties in the Palmer Woods district. Meals were had as well, including a dinner visit to the very hip Marrow restaurant, where - despite the meat-centric menu - I fell hard for the kitchen's Lobster and Maitake Dumplings with Michigan corn butter, nuggets of sweet lobster meat, lobster broth and Chinese chive...

Am I complaining? Not about the food. Most certainly not about the friends. Just about the whirlwind and lack of shut-eye.

Don't people say that things "slow down" in the summer?!?

Well, let's see what August brings.

France's Choice

Nope. Not talking about France's recent Presidential election.

I am talking about dessert.

As an American, the image above -- a perfectly made Paris-Brest from a dinner in Paris (yes, I went back yet again) -- epitomizes the notion of a French dessert. This wasn't just a notion though. This drop-dead gorgeous pastry rightly finished off a magnificent bistro supper at Chez Michel in the 10th Arrondissement.

But, dessert in France isn't always of a sweet nature. In fact, it is often crumbly and funky. Or sometimes it is smooth and buttery...

Yes, fromage. Add some good honey and toasted nuts and, well, hello! In France, cheese might as well be a religion. And, I think I would be happy praying to a perfectly ripe Saint Marcellin or Bleu d'Auvergne.

In this case, I did not make a choice when it came to closing out the meal. My dinner companion and I did both.

Both is a choice too though, isn't it?

The Best Apple Pie In Amsterdam

It had been nearly a decade since I'd been to Amsterdam.

And, ever since I took that trip I'd a soft spot in my heart for the Apple Pie at Winkel 43. It's often regaled as the best in the city. I even searched for their recipe to make it at home, but ended up deciding it was too much work. Better to fly to Amsterdam for another slice, yes?

Well, after my latest trip to the Dutch capital, there is a new Apple Pie champion that owns that soft spot in my heart - Cafe t'Papeneiland. See that photo above? How can anyone resist it?

Need a closer look? Allow me...

Oh, hot damn.

Literally - hot Dam!

And, if that isn't enough to get you to hightail it over to this 17th Century cafe, let me tell you that the place is cozy beyond measure. Chock-a-block with Delft antiquities, this Dutch "brown bar" embraces you the second you walk through the door.

Need a closer look? Allow me...

Now, if that isn't enough, there is also an historic tale of religious freedom and secret tunnel to go with.

But, in all honesty, the Apple Pie should be quite enough to get you to pay call. More than enough.

Wonder if I can find the recipe...Or maybe I'll just need to wing it back to Amsterdam for another slice, yes?

It's All Greek To Me

Didn't keep my passport tucked away for long after that trip to Rome and Paris. A few weeks later I packed up my bags and flew across the Atlantic once more - this time to Athens.

For years I had heard dreadful tales of the Greek capital. It's grimy. It's ugly. Just see the Acropolis and then quickly get to an island!

But then a few folks whom I trust started telling me a very different tale. One about a burgeoning arts scene and a rising culinary mecca.

Clearly, I had to check it out for myself.

My verdict? Those "few folks that I trust"? After my visit to Athens, I most definitely still trust them.

I know you aren't here to get details on a Rebetika concert that inspired grown women with high heels to link arms and start dancing, the offbeat Greek fashion spied in boutique windows, or the glorious art and antiquities that were on view in museums, galleries and even flea markets. You're here for the food and drink. In Athens, there was plenty.

Bear witness to the photo above. That was a cocktail hour meze repast at Dexameni, a small cafe with outdoor seating at the foot of Lycabettus Hill.

For breakfast? How about Greece's version of a bagel?

This beauty was had in the Psirri neighborhood at a 24/7 bakery called To Koulouri tou Psyri.

Really hungry? How about a pile of freshly grilled lamb chops?

Yaaaaassss! This platter of thinly sliced chops was enjoyed in the garden of a popular family-run paidakia named To Steki Tou Ilia. Those babies were delicious!

And, how about something a little healthy? Don't worry, alongside fresh feta cheese galore, there were vibrant veggies to be had...

Then, of course, you need to off-set all that veg goodness with something sweet. Athens delivered...

This warm, out-of-the-oven slice of Bougatsa Cream Pie from Bougatsadiko Thessaloniki, was eyes-roll-back-into-your-head-time. Seriously. If this place was near my apartment in Brooklyn, it'd be a problem. Thankfully, it is all the way in Greece and is a memory for now and a must-do the next time I return to Athens.

And, I will return to Athens!

Apero Hour Hits Paris

For those of you who aren't aware, not only did I fall down the pandemic rabbit hole of tuning in 6 days a week to watch cookbook author and former pastry chef David Lebovitz shake and stir up Instagram Live "Apero Hours" for several months - but I took it one step further. (Are you surprised? I think not.)

When Paris reopened from lockdown in late May 2020, David Lebovitz declared that he was putting an end to the regular "Apero Hour" series. I understood completely. But was still upset - not just about losing my daily fix of David himself, but because of the others that I had met virtually in the chat box.

Odd to think you can "meet" people in a chat box, but somehow we managed!

Well, when he declared that "Apero Hour" was coming to an end, I suddenly typed up an "Oh, no! We're going to need to set up an IG hub to keep this group together!"

I said it. Now I had to do it. And so, it was done.

I recruited two other "Apero Hour" regulars to join me: one from Portland, Oregon - Heidi, known as @UncommonMuse on Instagram, and the other from Olso, Norway - Judah, known as @StreetofTrees on IG. For 15 months, the three of us each posted one photo a week and a thought starter or such to keep the conversation going.

And so, it went.

We finally decided to have our own "Apero Hour Fans" handle come to a close in September 2021, vowing we'd start it up again whenever the three contributors were able to get together - in Paris.

Just a few weeks ago, we made that happen. The photo above is from our very first lunch all together at Les Rubis in the 2nd ARR. That's a Duck Heart Brochette if you're curious. It was delicious. But, much more importantly, Heidi, Judah and I felt like peas in a pod. In this case, the pod was the City of Lights. More specifically it was Sentier and the incredible foodie wonderland that is Rue Montorgueil...

and Rue du Nil...

Yes, there was pastry...

And, we even left the neighborhood a few times to imbibe...

Quite memorably, the above drinks were sipped at Sister Midnight. Other gorgeous cocktails were had at CopperBay, while bubbly Vouvray Brut was enjoyed at Le Bon Georges.

The pièce de résistance? It happened here...

A trip to Belleville to go to the much-lauded Combat bar. There, we raised a glass (okay, a couple of glasses!) with David Lebovitz and his husband Romain Pellas.

Yes, that's right. That's how we roll.

Tchin-tchin! And, considering the threat of variants still looms large, let me add a - Santé! - for good measure.