VittlesVamp

April in Paris

I couldn't get the song out of my head...

April in Paris, chestnuts in blossom

Holiday tables under the trees

April in Paris, this is a feeling

No one can ever reprise

You could say that Count Basie was in my head. But then again. Paris was at my feet.

Just a few weeks ago I followed up my business trip to London with a few sunny days in Paris, staying in South Pigalle.

It was worthy of song.

And, the standout meal of the trip was a doozy. It wasn't French. Non! It was elevated Lebanese from Chef Rita Higgins. A powerhouse in the kitchen, Chef Higgins has won acclaim with Kubri, her inventive restaurant in the 11th arrondissement. Just take a look at her version of Kibbeh Nayeh, aka Lamb Tartare...

Let's give this a resounding Oui!

There was no question that Kubri was absolutely baller, when the Shortrib Yakhneh hit the table.

Yes, a Flintstone-sized beauty with beef and tomato gravy, confit tomatoes, cinnamon, and spices and herbs galore...

I could share more, but I think you get the idea. If you are going to Paris, go to Kubri.

With that, let me finish out the month - and this post - by raising a glass of Champagne.

And, may we all be able to do so in Paris with the April sun still shining.

Santé!

Sunny & Sated In London

It was sort of a travel miracle. Sun in London. Yes, sun. Blue skies.

Not only that, but it was warm. Seriously. Sun and warmth at the end of March/beginning of April for five days straight.

Evidence: A photo above taken on March 31 from the patio at Oyster Shed - a glass of rosé, blue skies and The Shard in the distance on the other side of the Thames.

It was glorious.

And, speaking of glorious: Can we talk about the Greek brilliance at Oma in Borough Hall?

Think of dipping freshly baked, warm-from-the-oven breads into Tahini drizzled with Hot Honey and a shower of Crispy Chickpeas.

Then there is this genius reimagining of Spanakopita - in gratin-like form - perfect for slathering on flaky, crispy Malawach bread...

Need I go on?

Also in the Borough Market vicinity was an incredible Thai spot called Kolae, where open-flame grilling was the thing...

Everything was bonkers delicious, with the standout being the Kolae Mussel Skewers - doused in a coconut curry sauce - served with Calamasi Lime ready for a squeeze...

And lets not forget a quick Chinese-esque lunch of a Fried Chicken Bao at, well, Bao. Incredibly tasty and an incredible value at 6 and 3/4 pounds.

Haute Indian was in the mix as well. The Butter Chicken Wings at Brigadiers were worthy of the hype...

Did the blue skies make the trip better? I have to say, yes. Not that a gray, damp London doesn't offer many charms as well.

And, no matter the weather, there is no question whether or not London can deliver on a killer food scene. It can and it does.

Eating Extremely Well in CDMX

Did I go to Mexico City's Contramar for their famous Tuna Tostadas? Of course I did. Were they delicious? Of course they were.

Did I partake in the city's famous street food scene?

Absolutely! Above, behold a glorious Lamb Barbacoa Taco on a blue corn tortilla enjoyed on the streets of CDMX's Azcapotzalco district. Below, take a look at freshly made potato chips that were served up in bags, still warm from their frying and doused with an addictive chili sauce.

There were other delicious tastes that were had as well. But, the best? It started with this view...

This is the entrance to Ticuchi, part of the Enrique Olivera culinary family. Olivera's famous high-end restaurant Pujol usually gets all the attention.

Fame, schmame.

Fine by me, if that makes it easier for me to snag a res at Ticuchi.

The room is dark, pierced with dramatic lighting, plants a plenty -- and a cocktail den buzz alongside a killer kitchen that delivers vegetarian, corn-centric fare, alongside a few pescatarian delights.

Just take a look at this Tamale de Esquites...

And, then there was a Tostado con Ensalada de Frijoles con Pulpo that had me at "hello"...

Oh, and here is a Tlayuda with molé and plantains...

Will I be back? You can bet on it. Already looking at a possible CDMX stay in August.

CDMX Bars: The Quest Will Continue

I went to Mexico City with some gal pals a couple of weekends ago. A marvelous time was had by all. The design scene? Yes! The food scene? Yes! The bar scene? Not so much...

Now, I had heard tale of amazing cocktail haunts throughout the city. We went to two that have serious cocktail list rankings - Hanky Panky and Handshake. The former cracked into the top 100 list of best bars on planet earth. The latter - drumroll please - was actually named the #1 best bar in the world.

Not too shabby, eh?

Well, I didn't like either spot.

Hanky Panky had the whole "speakeasy" conceit down with the bar being hidden through the kitchen of a taqueria.

The room felt like some Disney World imagineer's idea of a "cool bar scene." And, the cocktails? Thumbs down. Not one of our drinks was balanced. Each tipped the scale too far in one direction or the other. We even left without finishing our drinks - hoping that this was an aberration.

Surely a visit to Handshake for a nightcap would redeem Mexico City's cocktail cred, right?

Wrong.

The bar is located at the entranceway to a nondescript hotel, supposedly "hidden" because of its unmarked black door. Hmmm. The crowd lined up at the door gave that big secret away. Still, I was hopeful.

I shouldn't have been.

We were summoned inside and into a fairly non-descript room with a few flourishes - and then was thrown by a huge shout out from the staff and a few patrons: "Bienvenidos!"

Seriously?

And, they did that every single freakin' time anybody came into the bar.

That wasn't all. They tried to rally everyone to shout "Hasta luego" when parties left too.

Now the question is: how were the drinks? The answer: they were good.

They were mostly clarified punches. Tasty clarified cocktails. Were they mind-blowing? No. They were good. But definitely not good enough to off-set the cheesy, forced vibe in the room.

I can promise you that I will find a bar that I love in CDMX; maybe several. I'm just not going to follow the top bars lists anymore to find my Mexico City watering holes.

So, I didn't find my cocktail spot this time around. I will return. Great cocktails will be found. That said, I did find many a fine taco - and many other delights. In fact, there is a restaurant I need to tell you about. It was the flipside of my bar experience in CDMX. It was everything I wanted and more...Stay tuned...

I Depend On The Kindness of Bartenders

That subject line isn't completely accurate, but a kind bartender was much needed over the last week and a half. Why? Unfortunately, Mama Vamp has been in a Philadelphia hospital, with the road to the recovery seeming way too far off in the distance.

Thankfully, Philly bartenders are a kind and jovial lot -- not to mention talented.

Hat tip to Paul at the James Beard-nominated Love Bar at Friday Saturday Sunday, Cosette at a.Kitchen, Mikey and Sara at Dizengoff, and Wei-Wei at the stylish speakeasy Franklin Mortgage & Investment.

Have to give a special shout out to Mustafa, who I first encountered behind the bar Bolo. As soon as I spied his handcrafted pineapple cocktail strainer, I knew I had to have one. Bought one from him last night.

I hope to shake, stir and strain again soon, pineapple in hand. I will be raising a glass in honor of Mama Vamp's recuperation.

Unboxing in Paris

So, I didn't just go to Berlin last month. I took a quick trip to Paris because...well, because it's Paris! And, when in Paris you shop. Yes, I dropped by some vintage shops and the occasional jewelry store, but my kind of shopping is pastry shopping.

Paris was happy to oblige.

First stop? I went to Rue Montorgueil to visit the oldest patisserie in Paris, Stohrer, which was founded in 1730. It's an oldie, but a goodie. Oh, and what goodies awaited.

And, frankly, I couldn't wait much longer than a few steps out of the shop before I had to break open my box...

...and indulge in heavenly bite of vanilla pastry cream in a Puits d'Amour...

I was deeply in amour.

And, now I needed to be shaken out of my reverie. Oui? Oui!

Onto The French Bastards! They are known for being eminently Instagrammable. Did I 'gram? Non! I saved my snapshot for le blog. And here it is...

...a truly divine Chocolate Pear Tart. Did they box it up for me though? Regrettably, I just got a bag. Now, I know why they are bastards!

One last pastry stop before I headed to the airport to catch my flight back to NYC. I took a morning stroll down Rue du Nil and hit the Terriors d'Avenir Boulangerie. The bread selection was stunning, but this is what called to me from behind the case...

...an utterly perfect Crousti-Flan that melted in my mouth and offered a crunchy, caramel-like base. This was addictive. I wanted to take a box of them home, but thought better of it.

But I'll be back. More unboxing will be necessary in 2025.

At The Bar In Berlin

A business trip to Berlin allowed me to reacquaint myself with the city from a different perspective -- a Kreuzberg perspective.

Whereas my last visit placed me firmly in the tony section of Mitte, this time I was going for hipster with a side of bohemia and an edge of artsy.

My client's headquarters was smack dab in the middle of this decidedly youthful, counterculture neighborhood. That made for access to some of the city's best Turkish food (yes, Adana Grillhaus is worth the fuss.) It also introduced me to the ever-so-elegant Oriana Hotel and its brilliant bar.

You know when you meet a bartender who you really connect with -- as a fellow cocktail nerd? I am lucky enough to say, I have a few bartending faves. Now, Julian Berger, the Oriana Bar's Bar Manager is among them.

Why? Let's just say that I caught the man making his own house non-alcoholic Amaro. Not enough? How about Peking Duck fat-washed Whiskey? Need more? Get a gander at this lovely...

Playfully enough, this cocktail is called a TonkaTruck. It includes Appleton Estate 8yr Reserve Estate Rum, Tonka, Coffee eau de Vie, a special Vermouth blend, Pedro Ximénez Sherry, and a Raspberry Cordial. Final flavor profile? A very surprising and very delicious perfectly ripe dark cherry.

Huzzah. I have my bar and my bartender in Berlin. Sehr gut!

I Went To Lancaster And All I Got Was A Pretzel

The title of this post is wholly inaccurate. Even if it wasn't, that was one heck of a soft pretzel. Lancaster's Shot and Bottle delivered on that front.

There is no question that I ate and drank well on a recent trip to Lancaster, PA.

The real win? An Italian spot called Luca. We were so impressed during our dinner there that we promptly made a reservation to return the next evening.

Yes, it was that good. Even my before-dinner drink was stellar...

...a Torino 'Sbagliato' Bianco, combining Antica Torino Bitter with Vermouth Bianco. A refreshing sipper to start the meal.

And, here are just a few dishes that inspired me and my pal to return for "seconds" the following night.

Let's start with a take on the classic Beef Carpacccio...

---in this case, made with wafer-thin slices of melt-in-your-mouth tongue, the meat brined for several days with garlic and peppercorns, and then braised until tender. Served over a slathering of bone marrow aioli, then showered with toasted bread crumbs and fresh herbs, this could have been the dinner's showstopper. Would have been. Except for what came next.

How could you resist this? Housemade Gnocchi with sweet corn, smoky pancetta, shishito peppers, grana pandano cheese, and some slices of summer black truffle to take it over the top.

Try to top that? Well, one way would be with Rabbit and Heritage Pork Sausage, cooked on the kitchen's wood-fired grill and served with summer beans, fennel, olives and cherry tomatoes.

And, what's for dessert? Was too full for a sweet from the chefs, but couldn't resist one from the bartenders...

This concoction is called an Espresso Nonna, a heady, not-overly-sweet meal capper that marries Averna amaro, anisette liquor, fresh espresso, and orange bitters, shaken till icy cold. Strained into a Nick and Nora with an orange peel twist, it went down awfully easy.

As you can see, it was worth a return visit. And, if I am honest, if we'd stayed any longer in Lancaster, there may have been a third visit to Luca. And, if I am completely honest, I would say that there might have been another pretzel from Shot & Bottle on the docket too.

Puebla By Way Of Philly

For those that pay close attention to this blog, you may recall that I took MamaVamp to South Philly a couple years ago to indulge in sublime Mexican food at Chef Christina Martinez's Casa Mexico.

We were more than overdue for some killer Mexican in the City of Brotherly Love. This time around, I took her to a spot called El Chingon.

This place is not just a gem - it's a full-on treasure.

Just take a look at our app above, Remolacha. At the base is Sikil Pak, a creamy, smoky dip made of pepitas. Piled on top are perfectly marinated beets, along with avocado, darkly roasted and sliced thin. Add a bit of goat cheese crema and caramelized sesame seeds, and I promise that you won't give a moment's thought before grabbing one of the crispy Totopos to start scooping it into your trap.

As if that wasn't enough, we had two entrees.

Whoa.

Let's talk about the Tacos Arabes. As pictured below, these were sourdough tortillas filled with pork marinated in fresh herbs, a spoonful of chipotle salsa atop. A few rings of grilled onion sat alongside, a caramelized, sweet addition if desired...

And then there was the Cemita - a classic Pueblan sandwich - which in this case was a Cemita Pierna Adobada.

This was a thing of pure beauty. It started with the bread. That's right. This is served on a homemade roll made by El Chingon's Chef/Owner Juan Carlos Aparicio who used to bake bread at Rittenhouse Square's Parc. This bread was gluten-filled gloriousness. It was stuffed with Adobo-rubbed pork butt, a slathering of ayocote beans, red onions, avocado, a slice of grilled pineapple, and a shower of shaved Oaxacan Quesillo cheese.

To be clear, I plan on eating each and every item that Chef Aparicio offers. It won't happen any time soon. But it will happen.

A birdie told me that he wouldn't say "no" to opening a branch in New York City. Well, I would not say "no" to that.

I have a feeling that El Chignon would fit in with the NYC food scene quite nicely. After all, the name translates to "bad ass." And the food that Chef Aparicio serves is bad ass, indeed!

Link Love

The link in question is Chef Donald Link.

Many friends have asked if I hit any great new restaurants on my recent trip to New Orleans. In truth, besides the market stalls, dives, luncheonettes and holes-in-wall that I ventured to during my walking tour, my standout faves where two old faves from Chef Link - Peche and Cochon.

In fact, first meal of the trip was a late dinner at Peche, kicking off with a half dozen of Gulf oysters. Those lovelies did not disappoint. Neither did his Cajun rendition of "Shrimp Toast" enrobed in sesame seeds and topped with slices of pickle. And, the main was spectacular. Pictured above, it was a whole Speckled Trout, flash-fried and served atop a tamarind sauce, showered with pickled carrots and daikon, roasted peanuts, and loads of cilantro. Also gobsmackingly good were the turnips. Yes, you read correctly. Take a look...

This seemingly banal side dish was featured in the New York Times Magazine with a recipe. Seriously. If the Citrus-Glazed Turnips are on the menu, they're a must.

Now, lets talk about my late lunch at Cochon. This where we sat, with the wood-burning oven throwing off a heady scent that made my mouth water.

That oven was put to good use in the service of the kitchen's Wood Fired Oysters with Chili Garlic Butter...

And, that was followed by the restaurant's namesake - Louisiana Cochon served with Braised Green Beans, Pickled Pears, and Pork Jus...

Hellz to the yassss.

And, in case you are wondering, some real warmth and hospitality came our way from both the back and front-of-house at both Peche and Cochon.

These are what you call oldies, but goodies - so, so good. So, while looking for the shiny new hot spot is certainly with merit, don't sleep on the merits of a standby that consistently stands and delivers.