VittlesVamp

I Went To Lancaster And All I Got Was A Pretzel

The title of this post is wholly inaccurate. Even if it wasn't, that was one heck of a soft pretzel. Lancaster's Shot and Bottle delivered on that front.

There is no question that I ate and drank well on a recent trip to Lancaster, PA.

The real win? An Italian spot called Luca. We were so impressed during our dinner there that we promptly made a reservation to return the next evening.

Yes, it was that good. Even my before-dinner drink was stellar...

...a Torino 'Sbagliato' Bianco, combining Antica Torino Bitter with Vermouth Bianco. A refreshing sipper to start the meal.

And, here are just a few dishes that inspired me and my pal to return for "seconds" the following night.

Let's start with a take on the classic Beef Carpacccio...

---in this case, made with wafer-thin slices of melt-in-your-mouth tongue, the meat brined for several days with garlic and peppercorns, and then braised until tender. Served over a slathering of bone marrow aioli, then showered with toasted bread crumbs and fresh herbs, this could have been the dinner's showstopper. Would have been. Except for what came next.

How could you resist this? Housemade Gnocchi with sweet corn, smoky pancetta, shishito peppers, grana pandano cheese, and some slices of summer black truffle to take it over the top.

Try to top that? Well, one way would be with Rabbit and Heritage Pork Sausage, cooked on the kitchen's wood-fired grill and served with summer beans, fennel, olives and cherry tomatoes.

And, what's for dessert? Was too full for a sweet from the chefs, but couldn't resist one from the bartenders...

This concoction is called an Espresso Nonna, a heady, not-overly-sweet meal capper that marries Averna amaro, anisette liquor, fresh espresso, and orange bitters, shaken till icy cold. Strained into a Nick and Nora with an orange peel twist, it went down awfully easy.

As you can see, it was worth a return visit. And, if I am honest, if we'd stayed any longer in Lancaster, there may have been a third visit to Luca. And, if I am completely honest, I would say that there might have been another pretzel from Shot & Bottle on the docket too.

Puebla By Way Of Philly

For those that pay close attention to this blog, you may recall that I took MamaVamp to South Philly a couple years ago to indulge in sublime Mexican food at Chef Christina Martinez's Casa Mexico.

We were more than overdue for some killer Mexican in the City of Brotherly Love. This time around, I took her to a spot called El Chingon.

This place is not just a gem - it's a full-on treasure.

Just take a look at our app above, Remolacha. At the base is Sikil Pak, a creamy, smoky dip made of pepitas. Piled on top are perfectly marinated beets, along with avocado, darkly roasted and sliced thin. Add a bit of goat cheese crema and caramelized sesame seeds, and I promise that you won't give a moment's thought before grabbing one of the crispy Totopos to start scooping it into your trap.

As if that wasn't enough, we had two entrees.

Whoa.

Let's talk about the Tacos Arabes. As pictured below, these were sourdough tortillas filled with pork marinated in fresh herbs, a spoonful of chipotle salsa atop. A few rings of grilled onion sat alongside, a caramelized, sweet addition if desired...

And then there was the Cemita - a classic Pueblan sandwich - which in this case was a Cemita Pierna Adobada.

This was a thing of pure beauty. It started with the bread. That's right. This is served on a homemade roll made by El Chingon's Chef/Owner Juan Carlos Aparicio who used to bake bread at Rittenhouse Square's Parc. This bread was gluten-filled gloriousness. It was stuffed with Adobo-rubbed pork butt, a slathering of ayocote beans, red onions, avocado, a slice of grilled pineapple, and a shower of shaved Oaxacan Quesillo cheese.

To be clear, I plan on eating each and every item that Chef Aparicio offers. It won't happen any time soon. But it will happen.

A birdie told me that he wouldn't say "no" to opening a branch in New York City. Well, I would not say "no" to that.

I have a feeling that El Chignon would fit in with the NYC food scene quite nicely. After all, the name translates to "bad ass." And the food that Chef Aparicio serves is bad ass, indeed!

Link Love

The link in question is Chef Donald Link.

Many friends have asked if I hit any great new restaurants on my recent trip to New Orleans. In truth, besides the market stalls, dives, luncheonettes and holes-in-wall that I ventured to during my walking tour, my standout faves where two old faves from Chef Link - Peche and Cochon.

In fact, first meal of the trip was a late dinner at Peche, kicking off with a half dozen of Gulf oysters. Those lovelies did not disappoint. Neither did his Cajun rendition of "Shrimp Toast" enrobed in sesame seeds and topped with slices of pickle. And, the main was spectacular. Pictured above, it was a whole Speckled Trout, flash-fried and served atop a tamarind sauce, showered with pickled carrots and daikon, roasted peanuts, and loads of cilantro. Also gobsmackingly good were the turnips. Yes, you read correctly. Take a look...

This seemingly banal side dish was featured in the New York Times Magazine with a recipe. Seriously. If the Citrus-Glazed Turnips are on the menu, they're a must.

Now, lets talk about my late lunch at Cochon. This where we sat, with the wood-burning oven throwing off a heady scent that made my mouth water.

That oven was put to good use in the service of the kitchen's Wood Fired Oysters with Chili Garlic Butter...

And, that was followed by the restaurant's namesake - Louisiana Cochon served with Braised Green Beans, Pickled Pears, and Pork Jus...

Hellz to the yassss.

And, in case you are wondering, some real warmth and hospitality came our way from both the back and front-of-house at both Peche and Cochon.

These are what you call oldies, but goodies - so, so good. So, while looking for the shiny new hot spot is certainly with merit, don't sleep on the merits of a standby that consistently stands and delivers.

A Real Taste of New Orleans

Took a quick trip to New Orleans. Hadn't been in ages. High on the list of "must do" activities was taking Culinary Backstreets' walking tour in the city. The one hitch? My ankle has been a freakin' mess and I knew I would be hobbling a bit as I made my way.

I needn't have worried. This is, after all, The Big Easy.

Chatting with our guide James, while swooning over a Praline-filled Beignet at Loretta's, I was assured that a slow stroll was more than acceptable. That said, would have been happy to stay at Loretta's all day and have another order of the Beignets.

Eventually, I was convinced to amble to the next stop - which luckily was only a couple blocks away.

Always good to hit a bar before noon. Molly's at the Market was a go-to in the aftermath of Katrina, due to its working pay phone and working taps. Not sure if the Frozen Irish Coffee was on hand then, but it sure was when we hit it...

Lightly boozy and heavily delicious.

The slow and steady tour went on and on from more stops in the French Quarter to places in the Marigny and then over to the Treme. First stop in the latter was Lil' Dizzy's, a family-run lunch spot with some seriously good Southern cooking. Think Gumbo, Hot Sausage Po-Boys, and some amazingly crisp Fried Chicken...

It took a lot of willpower to finally leave Lil' Dizzy's, but I was told that the next place was worth the effort.

It was.

Just a few blocks away, this welcoming sight greeted me...

That pot on the fire? Filled with grease for the weekly Friday Fish Fry. Open since the 1950's, Little People's Place has been more than a bar in the Treme. Family-owned and run, it is a community gathering place that means so much to its neighbors in the 9th Ward.

How much? Just take a look...

This, my friends, is a meticulously created diorama of the bar's interior, built by a long-time regular. This is love.

There was one more stop on the tour. No photos taken. It was a stop for a Sazerac at Bar Tonique on Rampart. Now, this was the right way to end a long day in New Orleans.

After all that, took an Uber back to the hotel, put my foot up and iced my ankle for a while. Still had the faint taste of anise and rye on my lips though.

I do like The Big Easy so very much.

Rome is Offal

It was only a few week ago, but my trip to Rome seems like a faint memory - except for the offal. Yes, you read write. Romans adore their innards, also referred to as quinto quarto. Visited several fine restaurants - Tram Tram, Santo Palato, Trattoria Pennestri, Trattoria Monti, and Trecca - and was happily ordering a range of offal dishes at each and every one.

The Calves Liver with Grapes, Onions and Herbs, seen above, was a marvel. And, became obsessed by the Rigatoni Con La Pajata...

Toothsome, al dente pasta, with a rich tomato sauce ladled on top, featuring seared pencil-thin veal intestines. I know that might sound disgusting to those who are squeamish - but trust me (and all of Rome) that it is deservedly a local classic.

Tongue with a slathering of Salsa Verde was another offal winner...

Will I try making these innard-enriched delights at home? Likely not. Have a hard time seeing the majority of my dinner guests taking to tripe and alike. That said, they don't know what they're missing.

Best Bites in Berlin

I went to Europe, came back, and didn't lose my affinity for alliteration. Deal with it - and enjoy some of my favorite food finds in Berlin. (Ack! Almost had it going with that string of "f's," but Berlin needed to be named Ferlin for it to really work. Nonetheless...)

First off, let me say that I most definitely have a favorite restaurant in Berlin. Its name is Trio. The food is decidedly German, decidedly farm-to-table, and quite honestly, decidedly delicious.

The room is modern and understated. The clientele has an air of hip, but not hipster. The owners were warm and welcoming.

Back to the food. Above, is a Herring Salad with Apples. This was salty, creamy, sweet and savory goodness. It disappeared from the plate lickety split. The dish that really had me at "hello" though was a bowl of soup...

Drop dead gorgeous, ain't it? That's the kitchen's version on Flädlesuppe, an intense mushroom broth with ribbons of a thin crepe-like pancake, topped with chopped chives.

The rest of the food is marvelous as well - from Goulash with Bread Dumplings to Schnitzel. It was so good, in fact, that we ended up going to Trio twice. Would have liked to make it a completely ironic third time, but we had just so much time in the city.

Another spot I took to was just a couple short blocks from where I was staying in Mitte - a very homey pub called Schwarzwaldstuben, serving very traditional fare. Yes, I had their Schnitzel. Yes, I had their Späetzle. But it was their Flammkuchen that was the real winner...

A classic dish from Alsace, it is a savory tart that is sometimes referred to as "German pizza." This one was topped with cheese, apple, onion and bacon and was utterly addictive.

Then, a little farther afield, was the contemporary restaurant Otto, which promised a view overlooking an open kitchen and refined fare in a relaxed, yet lively dining room. It was all of those things and more.

The standout dish? No contest...

Beet, Sloe Berry, Labneh and Brown Butter. This, to my mind, was dessert. Decadent dessert. Soooo good.

I found the recipe, but considering that making this dish is a two-day commitment, I think I'd rather just return to Berlin to enjoy it again.

Do you want to come with? Might make it to Trio too - for that completely ironic third dinner!

Christmas In July

I just came back from a few weeks in Philadelphia and in addition to grabbing a coveted table at the OG location of Laser Wolf, I was lucky enough to snag a reservation with friends at South Philly's River Twice during their weeklong "Christmas in July" dinner series.

Christmas in July?

Does that mean Egg Nog, Roasted Goose and Fruitcake in 90 degree weather? Thankfully, not.

It is a series of evenings in which River Twice's celebrated Chef and Owner Randy Rucker pairs up with other local Philly-area chefs to create incredible one-night-only dinners. The evening I attended, he teamed up with Chef Alex Kemp of one of the city's newest hot spots, My Loup.

The 7-course dinner was nothing less than stupendous. (Yes, I said stupendous. I could have said un-freakin-believable, but this was an elegant repast. I felt the use of a thesaurus was in order!)

First up was a sweet Raw Scallop with Tomato Water, Finger Lime, Verbena Oil, Preserved Ground Cherries and Currants. Snapshot of the glorious crudo is above.

Below, is a photo of the wholly moan-worthy second course - Beef Tartare with Fried Oysters and Romano Beans...

It took "surf and turf" to another level.

Next up was Heirloom Corn Grits with Miso-Mustard Smoked Maine Unagi and Summer Truffle...

Yaaaassssss!

And, because good, fresh corn is plentiful, that dish was followed by Skate Cheeks with Corn, Tomato and Basil...

That sauce!

Maine returned to East Passyunk with a piece of seared Wild Maine Halibut with Lightly Dried Tomatoes, Sea Beans, Kombu Butter and Golden Ossetra Caviar...

A little caviar is always a fine idea. Yup!

And, for the final savory course, the twosome of Chefs Rucker and Kemp delivered big time...

Braised Rabbit with Foie Gras, Carrots and Egg Noodles.

Simply using my words will never do this dish justice. Instead, imagine a wide smile and my eyes rolling back into my head.

Mmmmmmmmmm...

But then there was one more course before we set course back home to dream of sugarplums (or in my case, that Braised Rabbit).

Corn took the stage again with a Blueberry and Corn Tart...

A few bites in and that dinner was tied up with an ever-so-tasty bow.

Needless to say, I am ready to book a res for next year's "Christmas in July." It might just be my new favorite holiday season!

Imported from Philadelphia

The idea that Philadelphia is a force on the New York restaurant scene is funny to me. Then again, not so much.

I mean, Friday Saturday Sunday just captured the Best Restaurant in America nod from The James Beard Awards.

And, recently hitting Chef Michael Solomonov's Brooklyn outpost of Kfar, I was easily convinced that hyper-critical New York diners would fall in love with his modern Israeli menus.

Just look at that gorgeous bowl of creamy Hummus topped with a cascade of Crispy Mushrooms. Take a gander at that fresh-out-of-the-oven pita.

Thinking about making a reservation?

Take a long look at the snapshot below and you'll think no longer.

That's a Flintstone-sized Bone-In Short Rib with Amba and Passionfruit, served up with Braised Cabbage in a Tomato Amba.

Need to apologize to my pescatarian and vegetarian friends for that photo. Suggest that they don't scroll further, lest they see...

That.

In Philly now and paid call on Solomonov's Laser Wolf restaurant in the Fishtown neighborhood. It is impossible to get into the Williamsburg branch, unless you want a 10:30pm table. I felt triumphant scoring a 7:45pm res on a Monday night at the original location.

Yes, that Bone-In Short Rib should look familiar. Yes, it was large enough to be served at Fred Flintstone's table. And, just to make sure that there was enough meat on hand, we had two skewers of Koobideh, made of ground lamb and chicken.

By the way, did I mention the platter of 10 Salatim that landed on table before the meat even arrived? Cucumbers with Harissa, Moroccan Carrots, Babaganoush, Lebanese Potato Salad - need I go on?

Yeah. I can see why this is a hot ticket spot in New York.

What will be imported from Philadelphia next? I look forward to finding out.

Off-Site Down East

That is quite the view, huh? Pretty idyllic?

What could possibly make this vista off of the coast of Maine even more picturesque? Hmmm...

Yowsa! And, this fine readers, was the first meal of a company off-site in Maine. This perfect scene - and glorious Lobster Roll - was had at the Bite Into Maine food truck in Cape Elizabeth's Fort Williams Park, a stone's throw from our final destination of Portland.

Was more seafood part of the weeklong stay? Hellz-to-the-yes!

Think briny oysters, tasting like the saltwater from whence they came...

Think beer too, with Portland chock full of breweries making funky farmhouse ales and saisons and sours aplenty. Of course there was work to be done, so beer wasn't a daytime thing. But, even more seafood was had at all hours, whenever available. Case in point...

...Deviled Eggs with House Smoked Mussels served during a working lunch at Terlingua.

To be honest, nothing ever really topped that first Lobster Roll.

That said, I strongly believe we didn't hit enough seafood spots in and around Portland to be sure that there isn't a better shellfish option in town.

Clearly, will need another off-site Down East very, very soon. My work there is far from done!

Montreal Off The Map

I am a planner - especially when it comes to travel. No, I'm not scheduling my days when I am traveling. I just like to be prepared. Very prepared.

I make maps - Google Maps to be precise. Months before a trip I start researching everything from top restaurants to Mom & Pop shops to art galleries to local coffee spots to the closest emergency care, and lay them all on a map of the area. It is my way of learning about a place, sort of kicking off a trip, before I get my feet firmly planted there. And, yes, I do make a few plans off of my maps - mostly restaurant reservations. (Shocker!)

Needless to say, a long weekend with a friend in Montreal called for a map and reservations. That said, we thought we'd get there Thursday night and simply grab dinner at our hotel.

We needed to think again.

Stepping into the hotel lobby, our ears were accosted with thundering THUMPA-THUMPA electronica coming from the restaurant and bar. It was a scene. Way too loud and way too much.

I quickly tried to consider other options on the map, realizing that the restaurants I'd identified were probably fully booked. Suddenly, I remembered a spot that had sounded interested, but hadn't made it onto the map. Why? It was Italian. Why travel to Quebec for Italian? Still, the restaurant had sounded fun - and adult. No THUMPA-THUMPA. I asked the concierge (in a louder than usual conversation to be heard above the din) and he agreed that it was a good pick. He made a reservation for us.

The restaurant was called Gia Vin & Grill. It was off-the-beaten path, off to the side by a Home Depot. Getting out of the car in the fairly desolate area, I questioned the choice. One step inside though, and I questioned no longer. It was a fantastically warm and bustling warehouse space. The elegant marble bar at the entrance had a long rectangular well filled with ice and bottles of wine, natural wine. We sidled up as we waited for our table and within minutes we were talking to Larry Fiset, sommelier and partner, who not only directed us to some incredible wine, but also made sure we would be ordering the "must-haves" on the menu. When conversation turned to the culinary world at-large, I mentioned by podcast, interviewing cookbook authors. Larry's eyes lit up. I had to meet another of Gia's owners, Ryan Gray - who just happened to be having a book hitting shelves in a few weeks. Greetings were had, a podcast interview was discussed, conversation continued to flow and so did the wine.

Then we were taken to our table and the "must haves" began to show up...

It was the end of Snow Crab season in Quebec. This was unlike any kind of sweet meat crab I have ever had the privilege of eating. Heaven. Crustacean heaven.

The rest of the meal was just as brilliant - from Morel Mushrooms and Peas in a rich Spring Broth to Tagliatelle with Veal Bolognese.

People need to start visiting Quebec for the Italian food!

And, then Larry sat down with us. Where else were we planning to dine when we were in town? He approved of one pick, but less the other - and insisted that we let him text a friend at a restaurant we needed to try. It is a small spot, but he would try to wrangle us a reservation. Minutes later he returned with a wide smile, letting us know that we had a 9pm reservation on Saturday at Salle Climatisée. We smiled wide in return. In truth, I think we were smiling wide throughout dinner and even on the drive back to the hotel.

On Saturday we headed into the restaurant and were struck by the compact dining room, low-key vibe and warm welcome from the owner-sommelier that Larry had connected us with. We were seated at the counter overlooking the minuscule kitchen with chefs working like consummate jugglers, making the space work for them as they sauteed, fried, seared, and plated.

Yay! Dinner and a show!

And, then there was the wine. Such good wine. A white from Umbria - Collecapretta Buscaia - was particularly gorgeous, combining citrus with a floral nose and a brackish finish. It was a great accompaniment to the market-driven fare that followed...

Oh, yes! Local Halibut with an Herb-Pernod Sauce and delicately smoked New Potatoes.

Let me say yes again - this time for the Chicken...

This beauty was served with Morels and Radishes.

Dessert was a Sticky Pudding that had us humming with pleasure as we exited - so damn glad for the hotel lobby's obnoxious THUMPA-THUMPA and where it led us.

So, have I decided to skip the whole Google Maps rigamarole for future travels? Nope. But, I will be looking forward to going off-map to see what adventures and tastes await.