VittlesVamp

Queens Culinary Crawl

I've been known to take a food tour or two when I travel. And, if a walking tour company called Culinary Backstreets is offering one wherever I am headed, it's a must-do. I've been lucky enough to take some of their tours in Lisbon, Porto and Athens. (Still dreaming of that food in Athens!)

For years I've been promising that I would check out one of their tours in my own backyard - Queens. This is the borough that the company has chosen to embrace in its New York food tour offerings. They have two Queens walking adventures. One dives into Flushing's Chinatown and the other starts in Corona and then hits Elmhurst and Jackson Heights. I adore all things Chinatown, but I had to go for the United Kitchens tour that would start me off in Corona Plaza.

Let me say this before I go any further: Sign up for this tour. It is fantabulous. Go hungry. Very hungry. You will surely not leave hungry. I can vouch for that!

Mexican pastries and freshly squeezed juice started us off as we ventured on a side street.

That kitchen above and the lovely lady doing her thing in the window? Looks pretty darn good, doesn't it? It was...

Hell to the yeah. This was a Quesadilla that had me transported far from Queens and straight to a table in Mexico.

Of course, eating that amazing Quesadilla made me hungry for a humongous sandwich...

That was quite the Cemita specimen. Napkins were deployed as we polished it off. Then, not the least bit peckish, we stopped for some Peruvian snacks. Then we headed to an Argentinian butcher for some seriously delicious Empanadas...

So good!

We kept walking, stopping into an Uruguayan bakery for a few sweets before we hit Jackson Heights.

Once we arrived, Asian food took centerstage. We quickly lined up at a food truck to get a platter of Nepalese dumplings called Momos...

We could hardly down more than one Momo each, when we asked for them to be wrapped to go. (Momo-to-go sounds like the next great fast food joint, am I wrong?)

A stop for Samosas was had before we had what we believed would be our last morsel of the tour. And, what a morsel...

These are the crowned jewels of Bangladeshi street food. Called Fuchka, they are deep-fried spheres of wafer-thin dough stuffed with spiced chickpeas and potato, garnished with chaat masala. We drizzled some tangy tamarind chutney atop and enjoyed - thoroughly.

But how could we finish the tour without something sweet to send us back home? Never fear. Our trusty guide knew exactly where to take us. We walked into a small Thai mom and pop grocery and were presented with icy cold pandan treats. We ate them so quickly that there is no photo to behold. Just the memories of a very full stomach.

By the way, if you think that I won't be signing up for Culinary Backstreets' tour of Flushing, you are mightily mistaken!

Off-Site Down East

That is quite the view, huh? Pretty idyllic?

What could possibly make this vista off of the coast of Maine even more picturesque? Hmmm...

Yowsa! And, this fine readers, was the first meal of a company off-site in Maine. This perfect scene - and glorious Lobster Roll - was had at the Bite Into Maine food truck in Cape Elizabeth's Fort Williams Park, a stone's throw from our final destination of Portland.

Was more seafood part of the weeklong stay? Hellz-to-the-yes!

Think briny oysters, tasting like the saltwater from whence they came...

Think beer too, with Portland chock full of breweries making funky farmhouse ales and saisons and sours aplenty. Of course there was work to be done, so beer wasn't a daytime thing. But, even more seafood was had at all hours, whenever available. Case in point...

...Deviled Eggs with House Smoked Mussels served during a working lunch at Terlingua.

To be honest, nothing ever really topped that first Lobster Roll.

That said, I strongly believe we didn't hit enough seafood spots in and around Portland to be sure that there isn't a better shellfish option in town.

Clearly, will need another off-site Down East very, very soon. My work there is far from done!

Eating In The Promised Land

This here? This is a marvel of a sandwich! Not only was it as colorful as Joseph's amazing technicolor dreamcoat, but it was absolutely delicious -- and completely vegetarian to boot.

Called a Sabich, it's Israeli street fare as an art form. This Judaic beauty combines thinly sliced, fried eggplant, hardboiled egg, a couple spoonfuls of creamy hummus, a few rings of sweet onion, chopped Arabic salad for crunch and lemony acid, and a smattering each of red cabbage and bright green parsley, all finished with a generous drizzle of tahini, and magically stuffed in a fresh pita.

This should be considered mandatory eating in Tel Aviv. Frankly, I think it might be. (I believe the "Thou shall eat Sabich" commandment can be found in the small print somewhere in the footnotes section of the Old Testament.)

Needless to say, this was only one of many inspiring meals in the Promised Land. And, now I am promising myself free reign in my kitchen to recreate everything from the country's glorious hummus to its spicy shakshuka. Expect to see me tapping into some Ottolenghi and Solomonov and Shani recipes soon...

An Early Report From Berlin

I will have stories to tell - stories of Berlin. These stories will involve scorching heat, without proper A/C in sight. These stories will involve a gracious local food blogger, a politically-inclined brewpub host, and a friend of a friend, who is now my friend as well. And, yes, some of these stories will feature beer.

But, all of that is for later. Now, I just want to share some snapshots of an afternoon visit to Winterfeldt Platz Market in Berlin's Schöneberg district.

I wasn't the least bit disappointed by the fruit on display...

And, food stalls were punctuated by tables filled with funky jewelry, linen tablecloths, vintage knives, and...

shoes. Not to mention several stalls filled to overflowing with...

...fresh flowers. There were cheesemongers on hand, as well as the requisite...

...German sausages sizzling on the grill. A few stalls even catered to those with...

...vegetables on their shopping list. Still, carrots, cabbage, and alike were a rarity among the foodstuffs on display. Who was I to fight the German penchant for all things sweet, rich, and artery-clogging?

Bring on the apfelstrudel!

Foodgasm in Bangkok - Pt. 1

I had expected to be taken with Bangkok, but I think Bangkok might have taken me. And, it all started with this view - from my hotel suite.

Wow.

The city skyline from the 54th floor of the Lebua Tower Club. I was on the balcony, gazing out in amazement at the never-ending sea of skyscrapers, when there suddenly was a loud "Bzzzz..."

I opened the front door and in an elegant whoosh a gentleman laid out a complimentary box of gourmet chocolates and...

...a welcoming platter of perfectly ripe fruit. And, with another whoosh, the gentleman was gone.

Oh, yes, I was in the right place.

There was just enough time for a late afternoon dip in the pool and a G&T before heading out to dinner to Thong Lor district's Soul Food Mahanakorn.

I'd heard good things. They weren't nearly good enough.

My appetizer of Southern Thai Samosas was sublime, crackling crisp springroll wrappers tightly wound into triangles around spice-tinged lamb. One dunk into the mint-yogurt dip alongside and I was a goner. Then there was the Crab and Lemongrass Curry with Rice Noodles, a small bowl of incredibly fragrant, spicy crab curry stew. I gleefully spooned in rice vermicelli noodles to sop up every last drop.

Now, those were just my first few foodie hours in Bangkok.

Once firmly ensconced in my sweet hotel suite post-dinner, I happily drifted off to sleep, ready to take on the city in full-fledged tourist mode in the morning.

Little did I know that food-focused adventures awaited me well before 8am, starting with a train stop streetfood stall...

Yeah, we're talking about Spicy Papaya Salad expertly made only a few short feet from the railroad tracks. And, there were juicy, marinated Pork Skewers too.

My kind of breakfast!

And, then I got onto a train - one bound and determined to drive us right through a bustling food market...

Yes, took that picture from aboard the choo-choo, watching the vendors at the Maeklong Railway Market quickly pull back their awnings and edible wares as the train pulled in, along with a thousand tourists snapping photos to catch the action.

Walking through the market post-choo-choo, I bought some sliced pomelo for the road, as I headed to another famous Bangkok market - this one on water...

Bangkok's Floating Market is every bit as crowded and touristy as you might expect. Still, I was able to get my hands on a bowl of heady chicken broth with homemade noodles that had me slurping joyfully as I was paddled through the canals...

The day was far from over. I took in other awe-worthy sights, including the glittering Grand Palace and epic Wat Pho temples.

By the time I got back to the hotel, I was nearly too exhausted to check out Lebua's famous Sky Bar.

Nearly.

Thankfully, I rallied and made my way to the 64th floor open air rooftop lounge.

Greeted with a panoramic view of the city, twinkling at night, jazz playing in the background, how could I resist the pull of the rooftop's Perrier-Jouet champagne bar Flute? I couldn't. I didn't. It is the highest al fresco champagne in the world. I had no choice. Vintage champagne was happening. Happening big time.

Toddling back to my room, I realized that I wasn't going to get back out into the city for dinner. Perhaps I'd been a bit too "big time" with the champagne. No need to worry though. An order of exquisite Pad Thai from room service did the trick and I soon hit the hay, catching some much-needed zzz's.

Had to be well-rested. Tomorrow morning, Bangkok's legendary Or Tor Kor Market was on the menu...

The Fruit Wars of Kuala Lumpur

Breathtakingly beautiful. Looking up at the Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur's legendary Hindu shrine, I was overwhelmed by its otherworldiness.

And, then I looked down and across the sun-drenched plaza and got very, very thirsty...

Oh, yes. This is how coconut water was meant to be had. No bottles needed here. Just the real stuff, straight from the source.

And, later visiting one of the city's bustling wet markets, it was clear that a great deal of gorgeous Malaysian produce is at-the-ready.

Coconuts and pineapples are plentiful. I even spotted dragonfruit at a local supermarket. Yet, I couldn't help but notice that the locals were obsessed with one fruit alone - the stinkiest fruit on the planet.

We're talking about durian. I have friends who rhapsodize about this custardy, pungent fruit. They're not alone. I saw durian candies, durian coffee, durian cookies, and durian chips crowding Kuala Lumpur market shelves. Elsewhere I spied durian tea, durian cakes, durian mochi, and durian ice cream. And, that's just scratching the surface of the country's durian fixation.

I just can't do it. I've tried. I've really tried. But, it's just too freakin' noxious for me. (Let's remember, that many local hotels - including the one I stayed at - forbid guests to bring durian to their rooms, lest the stench pervade the premises.)

So, I stuck with the coconut in all its many delicious forms. I not only rejoiced in drinking its water and spooning out its tender white flesh, but also enjoyed its milky essence in the beloved national dish - Nasi Lemak.

This stupendous plate of rice, chicken, sambal chili, hard-boiled egg, cucumbers, peanuts, and dried anchovies is the product of Village Park, a place celebrated for its genius Nasi Lemak. I've already found a recipe which is reported to replicate their shatteringly crisp and spicy fried chicken, but I need to figure out how to make the dish's signature coconut and Pandan-scented rice at home. I think freshly squeezed coconut milk is one of the primary ingredients.

So, we're back to coconut once again. I realize that I'm outnumbered by durian lovers when it comes to Malaysia. Even so, I'll stick with the preferred tastes of this particular Malaysian...

I really think he's got something there. Mind you, he's also got something caught in his teeth. But at least that "something" is a bit of coconut goodness. No durian in sight.

I'm with the wild monkey on this one.

Thank Full

You're expecting a photo of a turkey. I get it. Hate to disappoint. In truth, I made a gorgeous bird on Thanksgiving and then - as I traditionally do - turned the carcass into gorgeous gumbo. But, thought I'd take a breath post-turkey-palooza to reflect on some of the tastes I've been particularly thankful for over the past year...

For example, I can't help but smile thinking about that plate of juicy Himalayan lamb dumplings from a Momo truck in Jackson Heights, Queens.

Then there was the classic Porteño breakfast of a freshly baked Medialuna served alongside a serious cup of coffee, which I consumed fairly regularly when I was living in Buenos Aires this summer.

Once home, I tried my hand at recreating Argentina's great steak dinners at a pal's Brooklyn apartment, complete with wine from Mendoza and a Mallmann-esque fire pit in the backyard.

Just a couple of weeks ago, I made "all gone" when presented with a plate of chilled Gulf shrimp at Peche in New Orleans.

And then there has been the spirted New Orleans-style indulgence of a well-crafted Pimm's Cup at my Brooklyn local, Jack the Horse Tavern.

Can only hope that I'll have a few more food and drink memories to regale you with before the year is out.

Buenos Aires Takes Street Eats To A New Level

When considering the possibility of street fare in Buenos Aires, I was thinking along the lines of the gentleman above, who offers up lollipops in a handy styrofoam head and handmade candied nuts. Thought I might pass an empanada stand or two as well.

But this, I didn't expect...

Yes. This is simply a group of hombres who run the local corner grocery grilling up a little lunch for themselves - on a public sidewalk. And, it was quite a lunch...

Carne made caliente on the streets of BA. Apparently, it is the Porteño way.

Totally Worth The Hype

No, I am not talking about cronuts!

I'm forgoing pastry for meat today. And, we're talking some serious meat.

Have you seen that picture above? That is some fine smoked brisket from Mighty Quinn's at Smorgasburg. Prior to yesterday, the lines seemed insurmountable. (Then again, I've never stood on line for a cronut, so what do I know about lines?)

Thankfully, I arrived in Williamsburg early enough that the wait for this barbecue mecca wasn't terrible at all. Fifteen minutes, and suddenly I was treated to this glorious hulking sandwich...

The meat was smokey and tender. The brioche roll had been dipped in the brisket's own juices before the slices were piled on thick. The sauce was piquant and ever-so-slightly tomato-rich. The pickles were crisp and vinegary, as was the small mound of slaw atop.

Yeah. This is a sandwich to love. Now, I think I might need to brave the lines at the Mighty Quinn's new two-star restaurant in the East Village. That said, I'm sure it has nothing on the behemoth line at Dominique Ansel's Bakery for the cronut-crazed masses.

Having A Ball - And Not Of The Meat Variety

Promise that this will be my last spherical-theme post for a while, but these babies warrant a shout out.

Crisp on the outside, tender and creamy within, Arancini Bros. knows their balls -- their rice balls, that is. A tempting treat at Brooklyn's DeKalb Market, the one at the back was infused with pesto, sporting a center of bright cherry tomato and an oozing of Mozzarella. Up front, the soft arborio rice had been cooked with deep yellow saffron and its middle was graced with a zesty meat ragu with peas.

So, I guess the headline isn't completely accurate.

Accurate, schmaccurate.

These lovelies were divine! My recommendation: Run out and get a pair!