VittlesVamp

Deviled Eggs Are My Culinary Kryptonite

A little over a year ago I wrote about fear of rice. Admittedly it's hard to get it right on the stovetop. From time to time I've mustered some small success with basmati rice. Even so, it took buying a rice cooker for rice to start making regular guest appearances at dinnertime.

Sadly, there is no device or advice that has yet to help me when it comes to another staple -- one that has proven to be a formidable frenemy. I'm talking about Satan's favorite high-cholesterol snack, the Deviled Egg.

Some downright gorgeous specimens from The Long Island Bar & Restaurant are pictured above. Delicious.

Would I like to replicate these beauties for a Southern-style dinner party opener (someday, when we can have dinner parties again)? Yes! But, alas, all my attempts at hard-boiling and peeling eggs has come up short. I am never able to peel away the shell clean. I am always ending up with whites with major pockmarks. Not a pretty sight. And Deviled Eggs must be pretty. That's in the Deviled Egg bylaws. It's pretty strict about the need for Deviled Eggs to be pretty.

I have tried many methods. All have failed. I have officially given up and I will leave the "Deviling" to those more capable. I think we'll all be better for it. I know the eggs will be better for it for sure.

Christmas In July

I just came back from a few weeks in Philadelphia and in addition to grabbing a coveted table at the OG location of Laser Wolf, I was lucky enough to snag a reservation with friends at South Philly's River Twice during their weeklong "Christmas in July" dinner series.

Christmas in July?

Does that mean Egg Nog, Roasted Goose and Fruitcake in 90 degree weather? Thankfully, not.

It is a series of evenings in which River Twice's celebrated Chef and Owner Randy Rucker pairs up with other local Philly-area chefs to create incredible one-night-only dinners. The evening I attended, he teamed up with Chef Alex Kemp of one of the city's newest hot spots, My Loup.

The 7-course dinner was nothing less than stupendous. (Yes, I said stupendous. I could have said un-freakin-believable, but this was an elegant repast. I felt the use of a thesaurus was in order!)

First up was a sweet Raw Scallop with Tomato Water, Finger Lime, Verbena Oil, Preserved Ground Cherries and Currants. Snapshot of the glorious crudo is above.

Below, is a photo of the wholly moan-worthy second course - Beef Tartare with Fried Oysters and Romano Beans...

It took "surf and turf" to another level.

Next up was Heirloom Corn Grits with Miso-Mustard Smoked Maine Unagi and Summer Truffle...

Yaaaassssss!

And, because good, fresh corn is plentiful, that dish was followed by Skate Cheeks with Corn, Tomato and Basil...

That sauce!

Maine returned to East Passyunk with a piece of seared Wild Maine Halibut with Lightly Dried Tomatoes, Sea Beans, Kombu Butter and Golden Ossetra Caviar...

A little caviar is always a fine idea. Yup!

And, for the final savory course, the twosome of Chefs Rucker and Kemp delivered big time...

Braised Rabbit with Foie Gras, Carrots and Egg Noodles.

Simply using my words will never do this dish justice. Instead, imagine a wide smile and my eyes rolling back into my head.

Mmmmmmmmmm...

But then there was one more course before we set course back home to dream of sugarplums (or in my case, that Braised Rabbit).

Corn took the stage again with a Blueberry and Corn Tart...

A few bites in and that dinner was tied up with an ever-so-tasty bow.

Needless to say, I am ready to book a res for next year's "Christmas in July." It might just be my new favorite holiday season!

Imported from Philadelphia

The idea that Philadelphia is a force on the New York restaurant scene is funny to me. Then again, not so much.

I mean, Friday Saturday Sunday just captured the Best Restaurant in America nod from The James Beard Awards.

And, recently hitting Chef Michael Solomonov's Brooklyn outpost of Kfar, I was easily convinced that hyper-critical New York diners would fall in love with his modern Israeli menus.

Just look at that gorgeous bowl of creamy Hummus topped with a cascade of Crispy Mushrooms. Take a gander at that fresh-out-of-the-oven pita.

Thinking about making a reservation?

Take a long look at the snapshot below and you'll think no longer.

That's a Flintstone-sized Bone-In Short Rib with Amba and Passionfruit, served up with Braised Cabbage in a Tomato Amba.

Need to apologize to my pescatarian and vegetarian friends for that photo. Suggest that they don't scroll further, lest they see...

That.

In Philly now and paid call on Solomonov's Laser Wolf restaurant in the Fishtown neighborhood. It is impossible to get into the Williamsburg branch, unless you want a 10:30pm table. I felt triumphant scoring a 7:45pm res on a Monday night at the original location.

Yes, that Bone-In Short Rib should look familiar. Yes, it was large enough to be served at Fred Flintstone's table. And, just to make sure that there was enough meat on hand, we had two skewers of Koobideh, made of ground lamb and chicken.

By the way, did I mention the platter of 10 Salatim that landed on table before the meat even arrived? Cucumbers with Harissa, Moroccan Carrots, Babaganoush, Lebanese Potato Salad - need I go on?

Yeah. I can see why this is a hot ticket spot in New York.

What will be imported from Philadelphia next? I look forward to finding out.

Great Expectations

There was a time during the height of the pandemic that a piece of toast made by someone other than yourself was an unmitigated pleasure. We yearned to go back to restaurants to feel some semblance of normalcy -- and dare I say, even experience something celebratory.

The pandemic is behind us. I have eaten many a meal at a restaurant since. And, yet, there is a bit of "pandemic-era-esque" guilt that creeps in these days if I am unhappy with a restaurant meal.

Case in point: above is a snapshot of a beautifully plated Red Shrimp Crudo at Fradei, a restaurant in Ft.Greene that has won rave reviews from critics. I had tried many a time to nab a coveted reservation. I finally did.

Entering the dining room with a friend, we immediately enjoyed the low-key vibe.

The menu looked fantastic.

Looks were deceiving.

That crudo above? It was a salt lick. Red shrimp is beautifully sweet and is known for having a texture more like lobster or scallops. None of that was able to shine through the brine. Other dishes were just as dismal.

In fact, my dining companion and I took one small bite each of our shared main of Nettle Dumplings and spit it out into our napkins.

The waitress didn't even inquire about our satisfaction when she took away the full plate and handed us the bill - a mighty bill.

We paid and felt the need for something to delight. Without hesitation, we headed over to Dick & Jane's for a well-made cocktail.

As we imbibed, I started to feel bad that I didn't like our dinner at Fradei. Then I took a sharp turn and got ticked that the food was so poorly executed and the bill so high. Then I took a sharp turn again and returned to feeling guilty, thinking about how I might have been so grateful for that same-said dinner to be served to me at the height of Covid.

Hmmmm...

Frankly, menu prices since Covid have skyrocketed for various reasons. Admittedly, my expectations have risen somewhat in accordance to the new price of going out. But, am I really more persnickety than I used to be?

Maybe not. In truth, I would have preferred a diner omelette that reveled in being a diner omelette -- and a diner omelette has gone up in price as well.

Perhaps I am just as persnickety as I used to be. And, perhaps the kitchen at Fradei was simply having a bad night. I can blame my unhappiness at dinner there on my great expectations, if I like. But, what I most certainly expect at this point is that I won't be returning to Fradei. Besides, that diner omelette is sounding pretty darn good to me right about now.

Off-Site Down East

That is quite the view, huh? Pretty idyllic?

What could possibly make this vista off of the coast of Maine even more picturesque? Hmmm...

Yowsa! And, this fine readers, was the first meal of a company off-site in Maine. This perfect scene - and glorious Lobster Roll - was had at the Bite Into Maine food truck in Cape Elizabeth's Fort Williams Park, a stone's throw from our final destination of Portland.

Was more seafood part of the weeklong stay? Hellz-to-the-yes!

Think briny oysters, tasting like the saltwater from whence they came...

Think beer too, with Portland chock full of breweries making funky farmhouse ales and saisons and sours aplenty. Of course there was work to be done, so beer wasn't a daytime thing. But, even more seafood was had at all hours, whenever available. Case in point...

...Deviled Eggs with House Smoked Mussels served during a working lunch at Terlingua.

To be honest, nothing ever really topped that first Lobster Roll.

That said, I strongly believe we didn't hit enough seafood spots in and around Portland to be sure that there isn't a better shellfish option in town.

Clearly, will need another off-site Down East very, very soon. My work there is far from done!

Montreal Off The Map

I am a planner - especially when it comes to travel. No, I'm not scheduling my days when I am traveling. I just like to be prepared. Very prepared.

I make maps - Google Maps to be precise. Months before a trip I start researching everything from top restaurants to Mom & Pop shops to art galleries to local coffee spots to the closest emergency care, and lay them all on a map of the area. It is my way of learning about a place, sort of kicking off a trip, before I get my feet firmly planted there. And, yes, I do make a few plans off of my maps - mostly restaurant reservations. (Shocker!)

Needless to say, a long weekend with a friend in Montreal called for a map and reservations. That said, we thought we'd get there Thursday night and simply grab dinner at our hotel.

We needed to think again.

Stepping into the hotel lobby, our ears were accosted with thundering THUMPA-THUMPA electronica coming from the restaurant and bar. It was a scene. Way too loud and way too much.

I quickly tried to consider other options on the map, realizing that the restaurants I'd identified were probably fully booked. Suddenly, I remembered a spot that had sounded interested, but hadn't made it onto the map. Why? It was Italian. Why travel to Quebec for Italian? Still, the restaurant had sounded fun - and adult. No THUMPA-THUMPA. I asked the concierge (in a louder than usual conversation to be heard above the din) and he agreed that it was a good pick. He made a reservation for us.

The restaurant was called Gia Vin & Grill. It was off-the-beaten path, off to the side by a Home Depot. Getting out of the car in the fairly desolate area, I questioned the choice. One step inside though, and I questioned no longer. It was a fantastically warm and bustling warehouse space. The elegant marble bar at the entrance had a long rectangular well filled with ice and bottles of wine, natural wine. We sidled up as we waited for our table and within minutes we were talking to Larry Fiset, sommelier and partner, who not only directed us to some incredible wine, but also made sure we would be ordering the "must-haves" on the menu. When conversation turned to the culinary world at-large, I mentioned by podcast, interviewing cookbook authors. Larry's eyes lit up. I had to meet another of Gia's owners, Ryan Gray - who just happened to be having a book hitting shelves in a few weeks. Greetings were had, a podcast interview was discussed, conversation continued to flow and so did the wine.

Then we were taken to our table and the "must haves" began to show up...

It was the end of Snow Crab season in Quebec. This was unlike any kind of sweet meat crab I have ever had the privilege of eating. Heaven. Crustacean heaven.

The rest of the meal was just as brilliant - from Morel Mushrooms and Peas in a rich Spring Broth to Tagliatelle with Veal Bolognese.

People need to start visiting Quebec for the Italian food!

And, then Larry sat down with us. Where else were we planning to dine when we were in town? He approved of one pick, but less the other - and insisted that we let him text a friend at a restaurant we needed to try. It is a small spot, but he would try to wrangle us a reservation. Minutes later he returned with a wide smile, letting us know that we had a 9pm reservation on Saturday at Salle Climatisée. We smiled wide in return. In truth, I think we were smiling wide throughout dinner and even on the drive back to the hotel.

On Saturday we headed into the restaurant and were struck by the compact dining room, low-key vibe and warm welcome from the owner-sommelier that Larry had connected us with. We were seated at the counter overlooking the minuscule kitchen with chefs working like consummate jugglers, making the space work for them as they sauteed, fried, seared, and plated.

Yay! Dinner and a show!

And, then there was the wine. Such good wine. A white from Umbria - Collecapretta Buscaia - was particularly gorgeous, combining citrus with a floral nose and a brackish finish. It was a great accompaniment to the market-driven fare that followed...

Oh, yes! Local Halibut with an Herb-Pernod Sauce and delicately smoked New Potatoes.

Let me say yes again - this time for the Chicken...

This beauty was served with Morels and Radishes.

Dessert was a Sticky Pudding that had us humming with pleasure as we exited - so damn glad for the hotel lobby's obnoxious THUMPA-THUMPA and where it led us.

So, have I decided to skip the whole Google Maps rigamarole for future travels? Nope. But, I will be looking forward to going off-map to see what adventures and tastes await.

Artichoke Amore in Rome

Technically, it was still winter when I arrived in Rome, but the bright blue sky and budding trees seemed to argue with Mother Nature -- and so did the produce on display. Stalls were brimming with springtime goodness, from strawberries to asparagus to Rome's most beloved vegetable -- the artichoke.

Adore the snapshot above, taken during a tour of Testaccio Market. Isn't she lovely? Take a long lingering look at her.

Now, take a look at the artichoke in abundance...

Talk about abbondanza! Carciofi were piled high throughout the market and they appeared on every trattoria and ristorante menu I encountered.

Coratella Con Carciofi by that bar at Tram Tram in the bohemian San Lorenzo district? Yes, please...

Carciofi alla Giudia at the elegant il Marchese? Absolutely...

If a man wants to win my heart, bring me a full-on bouquet of these beauties. I'd call that romance Roman-style.

Artichoke amore.

Carciofi carnalità.

It's real. It's wonderful. And, it's best enjoyed in Roma.

Haute Indian Fall In London

I went to London. Yes, I had a pint at a pub. I also experienced a swanky rendition of high tea. But, the real culinary treat was the incredible upscale Indian fare.

I was staying in Marylebone, so I did pop into Chiltern Firehouse for a cocktail (or two) before my first gourmet Indian supper. Cocktails were grand. The scene was grander. Yet, I was quite content to wander a few blocks away to the Michelin-starred Trishna. The menu was overwhelming. I decided to go for the tasting to try a range of the offerings. A gorgeous tray of Papads with three Chutneys was first up (pictured above) and considering how I devoured this Indian version of "chips and dips," I knew I'd made the right call.

A dish of Kerala Prawn Curry was a particular favorite of the evening, stewed with tamarind and coconut...

And then Dev Patel walked in.

He was just as striking as the food - maybe more so. OK, definitely more so. The rest of the night is a happy blur.

Clearly, I was going to need to go out for high-end Indian again, before I left London. For my next excursion, I visited Pahli Hill, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand nod. This time, no Dev Patel. But, the evening was lovely nonetheless. Standout dish? Most definitely the Papati Chat...

...a glorious plate of crispies with yogurt, tomato, tamarind, Delicata squash, mint and pomegranate seeds.

Now, I have had some great Indian food in the States - in NJ in particular - but nothing that has ever reached the stellar heights of haute Indian in London. If you've found somewhere that could compete on that score, please drop me a line! I am so in!

New Finds In Lisbon

Yes, when I am lucky enough to visit somewhere more than once, I adore returning to old haunts and fabulous favorites. But, there is still something in the depths of my food-obsessed soul that yearns to uncover the new.

Now, I didn't think I would actually "discover" anything that wasn't on the radar of others during my latest trip to Lisbon. That being said, did end up following the advice of Culinary Backstreets and nabbed myself a reservation at a fairly new hot spot - Tasca Baldracca - a very cool, casual restaurant in Mouraria. It comes equipped with an oversized chalkboard to share today's menu, heavily tattooed owners who can't wait to pour you a glass of wine that will put a smile on your face, and just enough attitude to make sure you know that you've been somewhere special.

And, the food? AHH-MAZING!

After a glass of red that had me at "hello," I kept with the red theme - in this case with red meat...

This is unequivocally the finest Steak Tartare I have ever had. It was served with puffy, fried batons of pastry, so you could scoop up the raw goodness and spoon it into a bit of pastry for a contrast of flavors and textures. Add a bit of the umami-rich anchovy mayo or house-fermented mustard and it was over the top.

Next up, I went for something cooked...

This Roasted Suckling Pig had a crackling that balanced crisp with a touch of fatty chew. The meat was beyond tender. The fennel and orange salad alongside had a handful of chili peppers, and the heat made the whole dish come together beautifully.

And, who was I to say no to dessert?

Yes! The chalkboard said Leite Creme de Doce de Liete - and I knew that a custard of what we call Dulce de Leche would be a lovely finish. When one of the owners plunked down a glass and a whole bottle of Moscatel to go with, I knew that this was less of a finish and more of a finale.

It was an incredible meal. I could have ended the night there. But, I didn't.

Just steps away there was a "Basque-Italian" bar called Quattro Teste that called to me. The room was elegant, yet cozy. Strangely, it was empty at first, but within a few minutes avid cocktail fans started to make their way in. Thankfully, I had an opportunity to speak with owner/bartender Alf before the place got too busy and met his partner and wife Marta as well. One G&T later, I was ready to try one of their own concoctions...

The Piemontese was a cocktail to love - Cucielo Rosso vermouth, Stravecchio Branca brandy, Nardini Elixir de China, and Izarra Groc. It was an aromatic, bitter nightcap that capped me off brilliantly.

No surprise here if Tasca Baldracca and Quattro Teste end up on my "must return" list whenever I am next in Lisbon.

Return To Lisbon

I may have come to Lisbon for work, but conference schmonference - I felt exhilarated to return. The sun was out. The Vino Verde flowed. I needed to visit some of my favorite spots. Staying in Principe Real, the Pavilhão Chinês was a first stop, chockablock with curiosities and an air of worn elegance, I couldn't wait to hit the bar and order up a G&T...

The drinks aren't really the point there, but the swirl of oddball collectibles and memorabilia, coupled with chandeliers and floor to ceiling art, make it a the perfect perch for a before-dinner tipple.

Where after? A taxi to Belem to the newly spiffed-up Nunes Real Marisqueira was a solid pick. See this massive shrimp?

Incredibly sweet and tender. There was a cavalcade of other seafood delights - including a platter overflowing with two different types of fresh shrimp. These were smaller, steamed and chilled, ready for peeling and dipping into garlicky aioli.

How do you say "Yaaaassss!!!" in Portuguese?

And, Nunes wasn't my only "must" place for seafood. The Sea Me outpost at Time Out Market was another favorite that warranted a return visit...

The Seared Sardine Nigiri and the Cod Nigiri with Toasted Almonds are justly famous. Melt-in-your-mouth doesn't even begin to do them justice.

Coffee was also had. Both Copenhagen Coffee Lab and Fabrica Coffee Roasters rival for my affections. But for the lauded dessert of Lisbon, the Pasteis de Nata?

I was all in with Manteigaria's burnished custard beauties, still warm from the oven.

So good.

There is something undeniably warming about returning to places like these - culinary gems, if ever there were.

But don't be mistaken. New hot spots were discovered on the trip as well.

Hold tight. Details are forthcoming...

Almeja

How to start my first dinner in Porto? There was no question: Port Tonico.

The place? A stylish downtown bistro called Almeja.

The food? A delicious tasting menu that had me at "hello"...

That "hello" came in the form of Gordal Olives stuffed with anchovies, served with a scoop of intense Lemon Sorbet.

Well, hello!

A series of spectacular tastes followed, including a rich chicken broth, accompanied by bite-sized Chicken Pies. Then there was Toasted Pig's Head Terrine with escabeche and apple...

Bread was served with fermented butter and an olive oil that I was tempted to drink from a glass. A twirl of Green Beans came with a pumpkin puree, fried egg, and fragrant green curry...

A pristine piece of Yellowtail was served with shucked cockles, atop cuscos, bathed in a saffron-citrus sauce...

A melt-in-your-mouth piece of Alejento Pork came with an almond cream and salsify. And, then there was a very curious dessert of Sweet Curry with Coconut Sorbet...

And, to gild the lily, a riff on a Banoffee with frozen white chocolate yogurt and a drizzle of warm toffee sauce finished things off with a glass of Tawny Port.

It was quite the greeting to Lisbon's sister to the North. Talk about a howdy!