VittlesVamp

Ugly Beautiful

With a mandate to stay-the-fuck-at-home and the prospect of quarantine looming large, it's time to start cooking.

We're not talking doomsday prep, people! No need to start hoarding!

What we need are "think ahead" food strategies to keep culinary delight well within grasp - with limited resources. One of my favorite flavor-bombs to have on-hand? Slow-roasted tomatoes. A snap of the ugly beauties is above. (They kind of look like some sort of modern piece of art, don't they?)

The whole process is relatively simple: Grab a bunch of plum tomatoes, cut them in half, and scoop out the innards. Toss with a little olive oil and salt. Place skin-side up on parchment paper or tin foil on a large sheet pan. Bake for a half-hour at 350 degrees. Take them out of the oven and let them cool a bit before removing the skins. Lower the oven to 250 degrees and put the tomatoes back in for another hour and a half.

Voila. That's it. Toss them in with pasta. Put them on a sandwich. Saute with seafood. Can't see them on top of an ice cream sundae, but then again...

My Scallop Crudo

There are recipes I return to time and time again when I am hosting one of my many multi-course dinner parties. Scallop Crudo is definitely high on my list of go-to's - and with good reason. It is incredibly easy to make and it's always a crowd pleaser.

There are caveats though: Buy the freshest scallops you can find and don't cheap out on the olive oil. Great olive oil isn't optional here. It is a must. If you don't enjoy tasting a spoonful of the stuff that you have in your pantry, you need to up your olive oil game before attempting this dish. Trust me. Totally worth it!

Scallop Crudo
(Serves 6 as a first course)

1 lb fresh sea scallops
1/2 lemon
1/4 cup exceptionally good olive oil
3/4 tsp Maldon sea salt
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
Fresh chives

Slice raw scallops into two or three thin coins each. Place them on a big platter or individual plates. Squeeze a little lemon juice over and then drizzle olive oil. Sprinkle the crunchy sea salt granules and the nuts on top. Snip a few bits of fresh chive over it all to finish it off.

Rice Scares The Heck Out Of Me

I can make homemade Ricotta Sorbet. I can sous vide Shrimp Cocktail. I can stir up a mean Martini. But rice. It scares the heck out of me. (My stash of Jasmine Rice is pictured above. A frightening sight!)

Seriously.

I have burned more pots of rice than I care to count. Let's not forget the pots of still crunchy, never cooked-through rice. And, then there are the pots of soupy unGodly rice porridge that I brought into the world.

A sad state of affairs.

Then I finally bought a rice cooker. This device was a miracle. Jasmine rice turned out perfectly every time!

Then I was stupid. i decided I wanted to make basmati rice. This is not ideal for a rice cooker. What was I thinking?!? I went down a rabbit hole of YouTube videos about making basmati rice. It was painful. There are so many different techniques. I finally settled on one though. In addition, I decided to take a recipe and tweak it to my taste. And, what happened? A delicious basmati pilaf was born!

Basmati Pilaf with Caramelized Onion, Cherries & Pistachios
(Serves 6 - 8)

2 cups of basmati rice
2 TBSP canola oil
3 yellow onions, sliced thin
1/2 cup dried cherries (reconstituted with hot water and drained)
1/3 cup shelled pistachios (toasted and chopped)
Zest from 1 orange
2 TBSP Kosher salt

Soak basmati rice 3 - 4 times in cool water, swishing around and draining to remove excess starch. Then soak rice for 30 - 45 minutes before draining. Put drained rice in a big pot and add 1 TBSP of canola oil. Put over moderate heat and saute for 3 minutes, making sure all grains are coated. Add 3 cups of boiling water and 1 TBSP Kosher salt. Bring to a rolling boil and then lower the stove temperature to a simmer and place a lid on top, leaving it alone for 10 minutes. Take pot off of the heat for 10 minutes and then fluff rice with a fork.

In a separate pot or Dutch oven, melt butter with 1 TBSP canola oil. Add onions and 1 TBSP Kosher salt. Saute until brown and caramelized, about 45 minutes.

Add rice into caramelized onions and mix with a fork. Add cherries, pistachios, and orange zest. Mix further and gently heat through on stove top before serving.

The Happy Accident

There's nothing like screwing up ingredients in a tried-and-true recipe to discover a new one. Such was the case with a drink recipe I accidentally created and aptly named The Happy Accident. Refreshing, with a tart edge married to a bittersweet finish, I've happily have been shaking these up all summer.

The one ingredient that might be hard to locate at your local liquor store is Cynar, the Italian amaro made of artichokes. Trust me, it is worth seeking out. Besides, if it's made of artichokes, doesn't this drink count as a vegetable? It's practically a health tonic!

The Happy Accident

1 ounce Gin
1 ounce Cynar
1 ounce Aperol
1 ounce lemon juice

Shake. Strain into a rocks glass with ice. Garnish with a lemon peel. Serve.

The Melon Trick

Can't take credit for this incredibly simple trick that takes melon to a new level.

Chef/owner Tony Migliaccio at my beloved neighborhood Italian hang Noodle Pudding served me up a beautiful slab of melon for dessert one night. But it wasn't just melon. He zested an orange on top for a bit of bite and citrus.

I don't think I can eat melon again without a sprinkling of orange zest to take it up a notch.

This trick paid off big time when I decided to make melon and prosciutto. SO. DAMN. DELICIOUS.

I implore you to try this at home. You'll develop a whole new appreciation for a slice of melon at any time of day.

Stop Messing With My Sazerac

Why do barkeeps continue to do wrong to what is so right? Why, unless I am in New Orleans, can't I order a Sazerac cocktail with confidence?

Both Maison Premiere and Jack the Horse Tavern in Brooklyn understand the finer points of the drink - but they are a rarity in a field of disappointments.

It's not an inordinately complicated cocktail, but I am always astonished at places that say they can make me one and then don't have a key ingredient - like Peychaud's bitters or an anise-flavored spirit like Absinthe, Herbsaint, or Pernod.

A glass of Rye whiskey with Angostura bitters and simple syrup is not a Sazerac folks. Try to substitute orange for lemon peel? That is a big nope!

The recipe for a Sazerac is quite simply...

A chilled glass coated with an anise-flavored spirit - preferably Absinthe. Then in a separate glass, Rye whiskey, simple syrup, and several dashes of Peychaud bitters (maybe Angostura too) are stirred over ice and strained into the other awaiting glass. Take a piece of lemon peel and run it around the lip of the glass, twist over the drink and drop in for good measure.

It is a classic for a reason.

So, stop screwing it up!

Tell me that you can't make it or don't have the ingredients. I will happily order something else. But, please, no more f*cked up Sazeracs. It is a drink that deserves respect and when rightly made, has earned it.

Cooking in California: The Spanakopita Edition

My pals Amelia and Shyam just moved to Oakland and their new apartment has a great kitchen - a baller kitchen. How could I resist playing in said baller kitchen when I was lucky enough to be their houseguest this past week?

My dinner dish of choice? Spanakopita. Had I made it before? Nope. Did I consult several recipes and then toss them in a jumble to create my own take on the Greek classic? Yup. Was it delicious? Hell to the yup! Is the recipe below? Um, yeah...

Spanakopita

1 box frozen phyllo dough (defrosted)
3 10oz. boxes frozen chopped spinach (defrosted)
8 oz. good feta (diced or crumbled)
5 scallions (thinly sliced, whites and greens)
1 shallot (minced)
1 lg. garlic clove (minced)
1 cup fresh dill (chopped)
1 TBSP salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
3 eggs
3/4 cups ghee (melted)
1/2 cup plain breadcrumbs

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease an 8X8 pan with a bit of the ghee. Strain the spinach using cheesecloth or a dishtowel to squeeze out all of the liquid. Saute the scallions, shallot, and garlic in two tablespoons of the melted ghee in a small pan until just starting to brown - about 4 - 5 minutes. Add to the spinach. Mix in the feta, dill, salt, pepper, and nutmeg into the spinach as well. Lightly whisk the eggs and then incorporate in to the spinach mixture. Layer the phyllo at the bottom of the pan (neatness is not necessarily) and brush with melted ghee and sprinkle with breadcrumbs in between each layer. After 6 - 8 layers, place the spinach mixture in the pan and spread evenly before layering on another 6 - 8 sheets of phyllo with ghee and breadcrumbs on top. Finish with a layer of phyllo brushed with ghee. Bake for 1 hour. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before cutting into squares and serving,

The Importance of the Wedge

Despite its humble 1950's and 60's beginnings and central focus on commonplace iceberg lettuce, the Wedge Salad is embraced by today's chefs as a stalwart starter. And, there is good reason why. It's delicious.

The salad pictured above is from Sugarcane Raw Bar & Grill in Brooklyn. Its crisp iceberg crunch was perfectly off-set by soft blue cheese, gorgeously caramelized bacon, a scattering of tomatoes and chive, and a hint of sherry vinegar. Paper thin slices of red onion and radishes adorned the plate for good measure. We're talking old-fashioned comfort food, presented with contemporary panache and full-on flavor.

The last Wedge Salad I presented in my home was a New Orleans riff on the classic, featuring a Champagne Vinegar-Shallot Vinaigrette and Shrimp Remoulade. It was undeniably yummy, but now I have a hankering to make the real deal for my next soiree.

Blue cheese and bacon? How could I go wrong? Well, gloppy, overly sweet Blue Cheese Dressing could spell disaster. Same goes if you use a blue cheese that is too aggressive.

Happily, if I do go in the traditional Wedge Salad direction, I have a family recipe for Blue Cheese Dressing at-the-ready. Give it a try. My aunt knew what she was doing when she came up with this one...

Aunt Jo's Blue Cheese Dressing

8oz Danish blue cheese
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup sour cream
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon country-style Dijon mustard

Soften blue cheese for a half-hour. Add vinegar and mash with a fork to combine. Sprinkle over the onion and garlic powders and the pepper, mashing the seasonings in lightly.

In a separate bowl, combine sour cream, mayo, and mustard. Add cheese mixture into the bowl and combine. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours before serving to let flavors meld.

Barcelona By Way Of Brooklyn

There is nothing like a trip to Europe without a passport and jet lag. Not that I wouldn't want to hop aboard a plane bound for Barcelona or Madrid right now, but I was lucky enough to get a taste of el estilo de vida Español when a bevy of foodie friends descended upon Chez Vamp for a Spanish feast that was nothing short of exquisite.

There was Paella, of course -- in this case, graced with wild Patagonia Shrimp, Monkfish Cheeks and Littleneck Oysters. Admittedly, that was the low point of the Spanish groaning board. (What can I say? It may look beautiful above, but my socarrat skills are sorely lacking.)

My pals were really the ones that made this dinner sing, with an array of tapas and pinxtos that would make a Catalan proud. Heck, we even indulged in a jar of Banderillas -- little plastic swords balancing tiny sour pickles, slivers of sweet red pepper, olives and pickled onions. Downed in one briny, mouthpuckering bite, we moved on to attack the rest of the Barcelonean banquet.

A major highlight: a platter laden with wafer-thin ruby red slices of Jamon Iberico Bellota, Jamon Serrano and Serrano de Lomo. It was all gobbled up within minutes of being laid on the table.

Thankfully, there was more to come. Much more.

Vegetables took centerstage long enough for us to pretend that maybe we were eating healthy. (Didn't I hear something about the Mediterranean Diet being great for your waistline?) There were Grilled Artichoke Hearts with brightening splash of fresh lemon juice, a hearty Tortilla Espanol and Steamed Broccoli with the traditional red pepper Romesco Sauce, warmed with toasted hazelnuts.

Then, bringing us back to the sea, we oohed and ahhed over a gorgeous plate of Razor Clam shells stuffed with diced clam meat along with chopped eggs, a garlic aioli and fennel fronds...

And, yes, there was dessert too. Pears poached in Sherry, served with Turron Ice Cream and topped with toasted almonds and dried cherries.

It was all quite splendid. The recipe most requested at the evening's end? No surprise: my Sangria.

Didn't I mention that I stirred up a pitcher at the night's onset? No? Well, perhaps that's because it was gone even quicker than the platter of Spanish ham.

So, here it is. May it quench your thirst and put a bit of Flamenco in your footstep all summer long...

Sangria

1 bottle Spanish red wine
1/2 cup brandy
3/4 cup triple sec
1 cup orange juice
1/2 Granny Smith apple
1/2 orange
6 strawberries

Pour wine, brandy, triple sec and orange juice into a larger pitcher. Stir. Add a cup of ice and the fruit cut into bite-sized chunks. Allow to chill the fridge for at least an hour, so the fruit gets soaked through with the Sangria mixture. Serve in glassed filled with ice.

Why Isn't Chicken Paprikash The Must-Have Dish On Every Menu In NYC?

I'm serious here. When is the last time you had Chicken Paprikash? Done correctly, made with real Hungarian Paprika and a lot of love (not to mention sour cream), it is a killer dish.

Made it recently for an Austrian-German-Hungarian feast at Chez Vamp with kudos all around. Served it with piping hot Spaetzle and a cool German Cucumber Salad. Perfect Tyrolean winter fare. (And lederhosen aside, I have to say that the mountains of dirty frozen snow in Brooklyn as of late have required Alpine hiking rigor.)

Need proof that Chicken Paprikash can take on the likes of NYC menu standards like Chicken Pot Pie or Shrimp and Grits? Try my recipe below and taste for yourself.

Chicken Paprikash

1 chicken (3 - 4 lbs) cut into ten pieces (I cut the breasts in half)
1/2 cup plus 2 TBSP flour
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/4 cup canola oil
1 lg onion minced
1 1/2 cloves garlic minced
1 TBSP Sweet Hungarian Paprika
2 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
1/2 Italian frying pepper (aka cubanelle pepper), diced
1 TBSP tomato paste
1 1/2 cup chicken broth
3/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup Italian parsley, finely chopped

Mix 1/2 cup flour with salt and pepper, and dredge chicken pieces in the mixture, shaking off excess flour. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, adding chicken a few pieces at a time, turning once to allow for browning on each side. Put chicken aside. Add onion, garlic, paprika, peppers and tomatoes, stirring until soft, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste, stirring for another minute until incorporated. Pour in chicken broth and stir before placing chicken pieces back into the Dutch oven. Cover and allow to cook on medium heat for 20 minutes, adding more time if necessary, until chicken is tender and cooked through. Meanwhile, mix together sour cream with remaining 2 TBSP flour. Mix into the chicken and sauce. Allow to cook for another 3 -4 minutes. Sprinkle parsley on top before serving.