VittlesVamp

What The Heck Is Happening With Egg Salad?

I can't tell you when it happened exactly, but somehow egg salad has become a delicacy. I am seeing it pop up on menus in ways I never could have imagined.

Evidence? The Milk Bread Egg Salad Sandwich with Trout Roe pictured above, served at Greenpoint's Lingo.

It was good - but since when has egg salad been for "dining out." On a deli platter with tuna salad, whitefish salad and alike? Yes. On a fancy New York menu, no.

Now, don't get me wrong. I enjoy egg salad. Smashed up a few leftover Deviled Eggs the other day, tossed in chopped celery and added a bit of mayo. It was delish. Have also intentionally whipped up egg salad, hardboiling, peeling, and then mashing up with chopped celery, minced cornichon, and snipped fresh dill. A dollop of mayo, a sprinkling of salt and voila.

So, can someone explain to me how Poppy's gets away with this?

Maybe its time that I switched careers and devote myself to making egg salad for a living.

Eat Your Vegetables

I was shocked. This dessert before you? Celery Root Ice Cream. Yes. Celery root. Served with celery glacé, coffee oil and preserved cherries.

A gorgeous finale to a dinner by Chef Nick Tamburo, which I had a while back at Fulgurances in Brooklyn. I am still thinking about it. Not only because it was so delicious, but because it made me question myself.

Have I been sleeping on vegetables for dessert?

Yes, there is Carrot Cake. I have had the Indian pudding known as Carrot Halwa and a Carrot Halwa Ice Cream as well. Rhubarb is also categorized as a vegetable. Goodness knows it gets strong play in many a sweet.

And, now that I think about it, there was Otto, the Berlin restaurant where I had the most glorious, sweet beets -- prepared in such a way that I thought they could pass for dessert. I am happy to say that I will have the chance to enjoy them again on this side of the Atlantic. Heading shortly to Ft. Greene, where they are having a pop-up residency. Let me see if those beets still give me a dessert vibe.

Any which way, clearly I need to stop discriminating down the produce aisle. Why should a red bell pepper be relegated to a savory dish? Could a Sweet Red Pepper Sorbet be in my future?

Not so sure about spinach, asparagus or eggplants, but I am game to be proven wrong.

Proximity

Tasty treats in close proximity? Sounds good at first, but it can quickly become a problem.

Case in point: donuts.

I have never been a big donut person. Dunkin' has never been a go-to. (Then again, I am not from Boston.)

But, back in September 2022 I tried the Maple Cruller at Daily Provisions. It was freakin-fantastic. Thankfully, though, it was near Union Square.

That changed a couple of months ago. Now, there is a Daily Provisions in walking distance, located in Cobble Hill.

If that wasn't bad enough, also in walking distance, Downtown Brooklyn's Gage & Tollner is offering up a rotating selection of sublime donuts at lunchtime. Check out the Lime and Coconut lovely above.

Gah! So good! So close! Too close!

To make matters worse, Henry's End, which is all of three blocks away from me in Brooklyn Heights, makes some seriously delectable donuts on the weekends.

Three blocks away.

I live in the danger zone.

Getting Ready For Blowback On This Post

So I am going to sound like a fullon 1-percenter right now - but, I have noticed an incredibly inordinate amount of Truffles and Caviar on menus as of late. For some, I am sure it is about "revenge dining" post-Pandemic. For others, there is surely a deep appreciation for these umami-packed ingredients.

Yet...

I am just starting to think that there are other options that are more affordable - and, are less knee-jerk than these indulgent luxury staples.

For example, last weekend I dropped by Red Hook Tavern one weekend morning. Instead of ordering their deservedly-hyped burger, I thought I would try their French Omelette with Truffle.

Was it good? Sure. Was it great? Not really.

I kept thinking how much a bright herb salad - maybe with Italian Parsley, Chives, and Tarragon - could have been an even better option than the generous shaving of Black Truffle showered on the perfectly cooked eggs.

And, then there are pieces of nigiri from Sushi Lin with fish that melts in your mouth.

Is a hit of Beluga Caviar balanced on top of Otoro Tuna and Uni a crowd pleaser? Sure. It it as good as the seared Tomato they put on top of King Salmon? Not really.

I know that complaining about too much Truffle and Caviar makes me sound like Marie Antoinette. But, I am not saying "Let them eat cake."

I am saying "Let me eat fresh herbs and tomatoes." Different. Besides, it comes at a much more manageable price tag - and hopefully doesn't inspire anyone to break out a guillotine.

Best Donut on the Planet

There is no argument to be had. The crullers at Daily Provisions are transcendent. One bite into the Maple Glazed version, pictured above, and I knew I was dealing with some incomparable, brilliant f*cking donut genius here.

It seriously warrants this review:

YES!!!!!

Fruit & Veg

You expect them together on the produce aisle, but not necessarily together on a plate. Except for a squeeze of citrus atop steaming veggies, fresh fruit and vegetables aren't always seen as a natural pairing.

Yet, two posts below, you'll see an image of a Charred Cabbage Salad from a visit in July to Portland's Canard -- and that cabbage was served with sliced peaches, toasted pine nuts, and a shower of Parmesan.

Good stuff.

And, even more recently, I was surprised and delighted at a local fave called Colonie to tuck into a Watermelon Salad with charred Shishito peppers, smoked ricotta, brown butter, fresh oregano leaves, and toasted pumpkin seeds. On another evening at the same restaurant, I was greeted with a special Tomato and Strawberry Salad.

Yes, yes, tomatoes are also considered a fruit as well as a vegetable, but still!

Tomatoes are a great foil for fresh fruit. In fact, I have been known to make a salad of tomatoes, peaches, red onion and cilantro. Delicious combo!

Have you encountered any couplings between fruit and veg this summer? Could they beat out Bennifer as the new "it couple"? We'll see...

Viral Recipes During The Pandemic? Irony Not Lost On Me

Yes, it has been about a year since everyone started making sourdough. I resisted that trend.

Still, ever once in a while I have succumbed to recipe mania. Seems like every few months a new "must-make-recipe" hits social media, as more and more people look for guidance in navigating meal prep during the pandemic.

First up was the Caramelized Shallot Pasta by Alison Roman that had everyone cooking down copious amounts of shallots with briny anchovies, tomato paste, and more. I heard about people making jar after jar of it to put on top of everything from fish to eggs. Sounded like a magic stuff.

My review: Meh. Very meh.

A far superior option if you have a yen for shallots is a Shallot Marmalade from David Lebovitz. Brilliant accompanying cheese or on top of a seared pork chop.

Admittedly, it isn't meant to serve as a sauce for pasta. When I want an easy pasta, I often find myself just browning butter and tossing in a few sage leaves to sizzle. I pour that over a plate of ravioli and shower it all with grated Parmesan. That's it. So good!

But then another pasta recipe started making the rounds. This one emerged from the depths of TikTok and quickly claimed the spotlight: Baked Feta Pasta. The hype around this recipe is off the charts.

It's appeal is simplicity. A brick of feta cheese on a baking dish, accompanied by a tumble of grape tomatoes, chopped garlic, a few lashings of olive oil, a grind or two of black pepper and a sprinkling of hot chili flakes. Into a hot oven for 45 minutes until melty.Stir everything together for a sauce. Toss in cooked pasta and add a handful of basil leaves. Eat.

Easy to make? Yes. Delicious? Um. Not so much. Don't get me wrong, the resulting bowl of cheesy pasta is fine. Absolutely fine! But, absolutely no more than fine.

Lesson learned: viral during a pandemic. Ironic? Sure. Worthy of accolades? Not necessarily.

Oyster Happy Hours Of Days Gone By?

Remember Oyster Happy Hours? I recall them all too fondly. I cannot tell you how much I have sorely missed inexpensive shellfish slurping and cocktailing with friends.

And just when I figured that Oyster Happy Hour wouldn't be on the rotation for a good long time, I stumbled upon a sign at the new Cardinal Mkt on Henry Street, not too far from my apartment. Was I seeing things or was this a chalkboard inviting patrons to an Oyster Happy Hour? It wasn't a mirage. It was a bonafide Oyster Happy Hour - one that was offered up in a makeshift patio out on the street, but a real deal Oyster Happy Hour nonetheless.

Dare I? I don't usually sit out front of restaurants these days. I usually keep my dining out to garden locations. But, there was no one else sitting on the patio. There wasn't much foot traffic on the street either. I dare!

One slurp and it was all sortsa like Proust's madeleine. The briny, boozy memories of Oyster Happy Hours of long ago came flooding back. Oh, yes! This was pleasure. This was joyful. This was just the fix I needed before the weather turns frigid cold and I start to want my oysters in chowder instead of on-the-half-shell.

Will I return for more? Most likely. In addition, I'm going to be getting shucking lessons soon. If we end up back in lockdown I think I had better be prepared. I will make my own Oyster Happy Hour, if need be!

Fried Chicken Mania - A Trend I Can Get Behind

Fried chicken has finally done it. It's not only turned Rob Lowe and Reba McIntyre into Colonel Sanders, but it has become a go-to main dish item on fancy restaurant menus - and we are not just talking about in the South.

Case in point, consuming a platter of "everything lickin' good" fried chicken at Chef Thomas Keller's Napa restaurant Ad Hoc. Take a look at that platter of deep fried, poultry deliciousness above. Tell me you wouldn't forgo some foie gras for a serious taste of that!

The East coast is smitten as well. I was picking nubbins of crust off of the table after ravaging this beauty at Brooklyn's Freeks Mill...

Oh, then there is Korean fried chicken - a category all its own. In fact, it seems that the Korean fried chicken-chain Bonchon is nipping at KFC's heels - or, ahem, wings as it were.

Note to self: Must get to Atoboy in Manhattan before the summer is over.

Open to other fried chicken must-do suggestions too! Where do you go for your fave fried chicken fix?

Getting My Veg On

There is no question that I like meat. Meat and fish both. Cannot visualize going vegetarian, but I have been seeing more and more vegetarian options on restaurant menus - and have found myself intrigued.

Cauliflower steaks galore, people!

In truth, cauliflower has been a bit overplayed. But, there are other vegetables that are calling to me these days...Above are some gorgeous blistered green snap peas with Aleppo oil and crispy pita from Brooklyn's Celestine, and below are some of the kitchen's beautiful roasted baby carrots with crushed cashews...

Now, these are vegetarian mains I can get behind!

So, share vegetarian recipes if you've got 'em. No mock duck or mock anything though. If I want meat, I'll have it. If I do go veg, it is because I want the veggies out, loud and proud. Bring out the best in a beet or the finest in fennel, and you got me! Dare I say it? Produce pride!

Hot Saucier

It was at a conference that I spied a new form of culinary profession - the Hot Saucier.

What, pray tell, is this new gourmand occupation? It is a gentleman or lady who is the resident expert on all things hot sauce. In this case, it was a gent overseeing a table of about 100 different hot sauces, able to explain their provenance, ingredients, flavor profile, and heat level.

Will this role take hold at restaurants across the country? Not sure. Certainly better than those "water sommeliers" they dreamed up a few years back.