VittlesVamp

A Kick-Off Cookie

We're all putting a hell of a lot of pressure on 2021 to deliver.

We need to chill.

2020 was a train wreck. So, maybe we start this year without the added pressure of a Dry January or a new strict diet regimen? Take a breath. Just take it one day at a time.

And, something sweet might not be so bad right around now. Add some crunch, perhaps? Chocolate seems appropriate too.

Don't worry. I got you. This is another "oldie, but a goodie" from Mama Vamp's recipe box...

Lace Cookies
Makes 32 - 36 cookies

1 cup quick oats
1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 stick softened margarine (that's right, margarine!)
1 egg, beaten
1/2 teaspoon orange juice
1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
6 oz. semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line cookie pans with aluminum foil. Mix dry ingredients together. Add softened margarine and mix well. Add the egg, orange juice and vanilla. Combine thoroughly. Drop cookie batter by 1/2 teaspoon. Bake 8 - 10 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes on the foil and then peel off gently. Pair cookies by size/shape before sandwiching. Melt chocolate. Spread on shiny side of the cookies and sandwich. Allow chocolate to cool and harden before serving.

Cookie Season

I have been baking. Baking a lot. Cookies in particular. They are highly coveted this time of year and highly shareable. And, considering my inability to throw dinner parties these days, I have taken to my oven to make cookies for neighbors and friends as a sweet substitute.

I know I am not the only one baking cookies frantically this season. Thought I would share recipes for some of my favorites -- including one from Mama Vamp.

Last night, I whipped up a batch of Snickerdoodles from Bon Appétit's popular recipe. My twist? The addition of a half teaspoon of cardamom to the cinnamon sugar mixture. I strongly advise you get really good cinnamon for this! (Burlap & Barrel is my go-to supplier for intense, single-origin cinnamon.) Brought these crisp, yet cakey classics to the crew working Christmas Day at my local Joe Coffee shop. Hoping for good reviews when I go there for an espresso in the morning!

I also add a twist to another go-to cookie recipe -- Melissa Clark's Rosemary Shortbread. In this case, the addition is orange zest. Can't say enough good things about this recipe. You can vary it in a multitude of ways and the cookies are always sublime!

Then there are the tried-and-true recipes you never muck with, like David Lebovitz's Cranzac Cookies...

...which are a magical amalgam of oats, brown sugar, dried cranberries, coconut, golden syrup (I actually have a bottle in the pantry from an earlier foray into Sri Lankan cookery), and some staple ingredients. These are deeply satisfying cookies. Never fail. Always welcome.

I also refuse to mess with François Payard's recipe for Flourless Chocolate Walnut Cookies. A bit chewy, there is something reminiscent of Tootsie Rolls about them. But, they are altogether elegant from the first bite to the last.

And, of course there are the cookies that I grew up with -- the ones that my mother baked when I was a kid. I published her recipe for Crunchy Jumbles a while back, chocolate chip cookies given a new lease on life with the addition of Rice Krispies. I don't know a soul that doesn't enjoy them!

But, have I ever told you about Mama Vamp's Blondies?

This recipe is a winner! I recently cheated on it with Smitten Kitchen's Blondie recipe, which called for browned butter -- but I still think this'll be the recipe that I turn to, when a batch of blondies is called for from my kitchen. Try them for yourself and let me know what you think!

Blondies

1/2 lb butter (room temperature)
1 box light brown sugar
3 eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla
3 cups flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
12 oz chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix together the butter, sugar, eggs, vanilla, flour, baking powder, and salt until a smooth thick batter. Add chocolate chips and mix until combined. Place batter in a 9x9 baking tin and spread out evenly. Bake for 45 minutes. Cool and slice into squares for serving.

By Request: My Champagne-Shallot Vinaigrette

Yesterday, I snapped a picture of lunch for a post on my Instagram feed. The image is above. The composed salad featured matchsticks of endive leaf, slices of pear, a generous crumbling of Jasper Hill Farms Bayley Hazen Blue Cheese, and a handful of toasted walnuts.

The photo struck a chord. Several folks asked for the recipe. How could I say no?

It's a classic combination -- but what really brings all the flavors together is a vinaigrette. It's a recipe I have turned to time and time again. Happy to share. It is a fantastic dressing for a range of different salad combinations. And, although I make it with thyme, you can feel free to swap it out for any number of herbs, including tarragon or oregano.

Champagne-Shallot Vinaigrette

1 medium-sized shallot, minced (about 3 TBSP)
2 TBSP Dijon mustard
4 tsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped
1/2 tsp Kosher salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup Champagne vinegar
3/4 cups olive oil

With a fork or small whisk, stir together the minced shallots, mustard, thyme, salt, pepper in a bowl. Add the vinegar and whisk until it is all melded together. Slowly add the oil while whisking, until emulsified. Let the vinaigrette sit for at least an hour before using. Even better, let sit overnight.

Salad Days...& Frittata Days Too

Pandemic cooking for one means leftovers. For me, leftovers demand a bit of creativity. I'm not suggesting that eating the same meal a few days in a row might not be just fine - but I often crave change.

A go-to solution? Salads. All sorts of salads. Case in point: the Lamb Salad above, featuring slices of grilled lamb from the previous night's dinner, red leaf lettuce, some cooked carrots (also from the previous evening's repast), a few stray croutons, some olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, and a makeshift dressing that mixed together spicy olive oil and shallot vinaigrette from dinner the other night.

Another way to go? Frittata. Here's a snapshot of a recent beauty...

...highlighting previously sautéed zucchini and onions with some goat cheese. Already earmarking some leftover roasted Brussels sprouts and rice in the fridge for a frittata later this week. A bit of Gruyere might play well with those ingredients as well.

Salads and frittatas - where leftovers find new life!

A Meat & Greek

Whereas "my go-to's" used to be a stable of favorite restaurants, today it is a series of dishes and preparations that I turn to on the regular.

One of my most regular regulars? What I call "a meat and Greek." Quite simply, we're talking about a protein accompanied by a freshly-made Greek Salad. Yeah, start thinking creamy French Feta, briny Kalamata Olives, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Red Bell Pepper, Red Onion, crisp Romaine, and copious amounts of fresh Dill, topped with a bit of Red Wine Vinegar and good Olive Oil.

Put all that next to the blandest piece of Chicken and you still have a winner dinner.

I don't try to make bland anything, if I can help it.

Above is a juicy Lamb Chop, sous vide with herbs and then seared for additional flavor. Lamb and a Greek Salad? A match made in heaven! Then again, I liked my Salmon and Greek Salad the other night. And, a Grilled Pork Chop with a Greek Salad is pretty yummy too.

Now I've got you thinking about making a "meat and Greek" too, haven't I? You won't regret it.

The Stones of Summer

I am ga-ga for stone fruit. Seriously love the stuff. When it all starts hitting the market each summer, I'm all in.

This summer has been no exception. The apricots above? Made individual Apricot Galettes for myself and some neighbors...

These plums?

I was inspired by The Amateur Gourmet himself, Adam Roberts' , who tinkered with a Marian Burros recipe and varied it up further with this Plum-Almond Torte...

And, then there are the copious amounts of cherries I can't resist...

In addition to simply gobbling them up at all hours, I also pitted a few to try a Cherry Clafoutis recipe from David Lebovitz...

And, peaches? Yeah, got these from Georgia...

And, baked up a Peach-Rye Cake recipe from pastry doyenne Zoë François...

Where are the nectarines, you wonder? I have eaten them so quick that I didn't have time to take a snapshot.

Have a few precious weeks of stone fruit season left. I've been jamming on making jam with some of it too. But, I think you can safely assume that you'll see a few more stone fruit treats appear in my Instagram feed soon.

Variations On A Theme

We often have a tendency to gild the lily when it comes to recipes. (I've seen many a sad cookie chockablock with wayward ingredients. It's painful.) So, typically, I try to keep the integrity of a recipe in check.

But that doesn't mean that variations are verboten. Sometimes something small can make it your own. Or as Ina Garten likes to say - turn up the volume!

I recently did just that with a Brown Butter-Cinnamon Crumb Cake recipe that caught my eye. The addition of fresh blueberries...

...didn't distract from the gorgeous crumb and added a sweet, summery burst of berry flavor to the cake.

And cocktail recipes also offer a chance to tweak and adapt to your taste. Case in point: a recipe for a Straw Dog cocktail from Death & Co, which called for a fresh strawberry and Scotch, among other ingredients. I had neither at hand. (Also, to be honest, I don't really care for the peaty taste of Scotch.) But, then I found a variation that appealed...

...a spin on the recipe, found on Food52...

It substituted the strawberry for a slice of ripe peach and the Scotch for Bourbon.

Oh, hellz-to-the-yes! This drink is freaking brilliant!

Soon, I'll be at it again - adapting the classic Negroni by switching out Campari for Forthave Spirits Red. Will it be delicious? Will I need to stir up a second drink with Campari to compare-and-contrast? All quite possible.

But, no gilding the lily here. Variations are one thing. Lilies belong in gardens and occasionally in vases. No gilding necessary.

My Parisian Pandemic - In Brooklyn (Merci Monsieur Lebovitz)

I was supposed to go to Paris late March. Supposed to go. Didn't go.

Perhaps that is why I discovered David Lebovitz's Instagram Live "Apero Hour" from Paris, a civilized and joyful respite from the pandemic, 12noon Eastern, Monday through Saturday.

Well before all this, I had been an admirer of Lebovitz. Earlier in his career he was a cook and pastry chef at Berkeley's Chez Panisse. He moved to Paris decades ago and has been writing about his experiences - glorious and exasperating and everything in-between - ever since. I had often cooked recipes from My Paris Kitchen and enjoyed reading his memoir-meets-cookbook called The Sweet Life in Paris, but it wasn't until I stumbled on his genius recipe for Almond Cake that I became an ardent fan. It's the bombdiggity! Just let one mere crumb of this dessert past your lips and you will instantly become a fan girl (or fan guy)!

His "Apero Hour" IG Lives began as a substitute for a book tour to promote his latest tome - Drinking French. The COVID-19 crisis had most of the world in lockdown, so instead of visiting bookstores to talk about the cocktails, apéritifs, spirits, and other drinks that are the cornerstone of French café and bar life, he took to Instagram. At 6pm Paris time he makes a drink from his Parisian kitchen - sometimes accompanied in-person by his utterly charming partner Romain. And, once in a while, he is joined remotely by a guest bartender, distiller, or another drinks-focused author, who could be located anywhere in the wilds of France or the deepest darkest depths of Brooklyn.

It has become appointment viewing for me.

As a result, I've purchased some new cocktail ingredients - including Plantation Stiggins' Fancy Pineapple Rum (who knew it was made by the French?). I have shaken and stirred a new range of drinks for sipping during Zoom happy hours and alike. I have made Lebovitz's Rosemary Gimlet, followed his recipes for making a Montparnasse, The White Lady, and a Daiquiri (using the aforementioned pineapple-infused rum - YUM!). I also tried my hand at drink recipes offered by his guests, including a stellar Margarita from Ivy Mix of Brooklyn's Leyenda and the bitter and brilliant Tunnel Cocktail from Franck Audoux, the owner of Cravan in Paris (snapshot of my rendition above.)

In addition, I connect with a makeshift community of sorts when I log on. Several of us "regulars" chime in and chatter with each other, as well as David, in an effort to make "Apero Hour" our own.

And, lest you think that I've solely been imbibing thanks to Mr. Lebovitz, I can attest to the fact that I have been trying more of his food recipes too. In fact, his Shallot Marmalade...

...is up there in genius, swoon-worthy territory. And, his "Apero Hour" featuring French cheeses, inspired me to buy a serious slice of Brie de Meaux to go alongside some of the marmalade.

Sure I will be exploring more of his recipes - and those he recommends - in the coming weeks. I have already added certain spots like the bar Combat and the Fédération Française de l'Apéritif to my Paris map for when I can finally return to the City of Lights. Until then, and for as long as he'll allow, I will be virtually visiting David Lebovitz's kitchen for my fix of France.

Merci, David Lebovitz! Merci!

Waste Not, Want Not

Right now "waste" has become the enemy during this pandemic lock-down. As a result, I have taken to crafting menus more than a week in advance to make sure that every ingredient in my fridge gets used. But sometimes that means cooking something right before it goes bad -- and then putting it immediately into the freezer for safekeeping until it can take its rightful place on my dinner plate.

So, above is a Buttermilk-Marinated Roast Chicken (in this case, marinated in a buttermilk substitute of milk and lemon juice). Ordinarily, I wouldn't make a whole bird for myself, but just because I could only eat about a third of this beauty for dinner one night, didn't mean I had actually made too much. I had plans...

The rest of the meat was destined to star in Honeyed Chicken Salad that would be served up not once, but twice in lunchtime sandwiches.

And, then there was the chicken carcass...

That's right - Chicken Soup. Enriched the stock with a leftover rind of Parmesan-Reggiano cheese. Like I said, nothing is going to waste now. Besides, it gives an extra umami edge to the broth.

Figure that no one out there needs a "how-to" on chicken stock, but if you too have a whole chicken in your "shelter-in-place" future, perhaps you'll want to try your hand at my chicken salad with the leftovers.

Honeyed Chicken Salad

2 cups chicken meat (about 1/2 a small roast chicken - cut into chunks or shredded)
1/4 cup chopped celery
2 TBSP minced scallion (green parts only)
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup sour cream
2 TBSP honey
1 tsp Kosher salt
1/2 tsp ground black pepper

Mix mayonnaise, sour cream, honey, salt, and pepper together to create a dressing in a large bowl. Add chicken, celery, and scallion. Mix to thoroughly combine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, so the flavors meld together before serving.

More Quarantine Cooking: Cassoulet-Style Beans

These days food shopping has become a bizarre competitive sport of sorts. I used to like to go to the market and see what inspired me. No more. Now I tap on my computer keyboard when the clock strikes midnight to try to wrangle a slot on FreshDirect -- and purchase whatever they have available. But, those slots have been very hard to come by. Nearly impossible. I am a loser in the game of FreshDirect

Thankfully, new options have been emerging on the scene. And, so the last time I needed to place a grocery order, I turned to Baldor, a popular restaurant food delivery company that's now making home deliveries too.

Despite the wide selection and gorgeous array of products on the site, there is a major challenge in navigating Baldor -- size matters. Don't mean that in a smutty way. Mean that in a "restaurant order quantities" kind of way. Eyeing that Grass Fed Beef Skirt Steak from Joyce Farms? Better be ready to order 20 lbs. of it. That Extra Fancy Rhubarb looking tasty right now? You had better fancy a full 10 lbs.

Needless to say, it took me over an hour and a half of hunting on the site to narrow down the items that I could visualize ordering without my fridge running out of room. A 5 lb. brick of Ground Beef was purchased, as were eight Beefsteak Tomatoes, a dozen bottles of San Pellegrino Sparkling Water, and a 3 ltr. jug of olive oil, among other items -- including four plump Toulouse Sausages from Fabrique Délices, which were placed in my cart on a whim.

Was I planning to live up to my "whim" and make Cassoulet? I mean, that's the only time I have ever seen Toulouse sausages in a recipe. They are key a component of a Cassoulet, along with Duck Confit, Salted Pork, Pork Shoulder, Cannellini Beans, and a litany of other ingredients. Typically, one French garlicky pot of the the stuff serves about 12 hungry guests. Did I think Cassoulet was going to happen for little ole me in quarantine?

Let's think about this for minute...

I think not.

And, so a quarantine compromise was born -- Cassoulet-Style Beans -- which were the perfect accompaniment to two Toulouse sausages, seared on my cast iron grill pan. I couldn't find dried beans, so a couple of cans had to do. I think we can agree that "making do" is perfectly fine right now. Authenticity can be tossed aside. Deliciousness, though?

I think not.

Cassoulet-Style Beans
(Serves 4 as a side dish)

2 cans of Cannellini beans (15 oz. each)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
2 - 3 garlic cloves (minced)
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
1/2 cup finely chopped carrot
1 cup beef broth
1 tablespoon tomato paste
bunch of fresh thyme (tied with twine, bouquet garni-style)
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1/8 teaspoon onion powder
3 tablespoons butter (melted)

Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add onions and sautee for 3 - 4 minutes, until they just begin to soften. Add garlic and sautee a couple of minutes more. Put celery and carrots into the pot and stir every once in while for about 10 - 12 minutes, until they start to soften too. Pour in beef broth and scrape off any browned bits at the bottom of the pan. Bring temperature up to a steady simmer. Stir in tomato paste and add the thyme. Allow to cook until most of the broth has evaporated and the vegetables are quite soft (about 15 minutes). Turn off heat. Drain beans. Add into the vegetable mixture along with 1/2 tsp. salt and pepper. Stir to combine. Set oven to 400 degrees. Place bean mixture in a baking pan -- one big enough that the beans are about 1 - 1 1/2 inch thick from the bottom. Toss together bread crumbs, parsley, onion powder, 1/2 tsp salt, and melted butter. Scatter the topping over the beans. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove from oven and put on a trivet to serve.