VittlesVamp

CDMX Bars: The Quest Will Continue

I went to Mexico City with some gal pals a couple of weekends ago. A marvelous time was had by all. The design scene? Yes! The food scene? Yes! The bar scene? Not so much...

Now, I had heard tale of amazing cocktail haunts throughout the city. We went to two that have serious cocktail list rankings - Hanky Panky and Handshake. The former cracked into the top 100 list of best bars on planet earth. The latter - drumroll please - was actually named the #1 best bar in the world.

Not too shabby, eh?

Well, I didn't like either spot.

Hanky Panky had the whole "speakeasy" conceit down with the bar being hidden through the kitchen of a taqueria.

The room felt like some Disney World imagineer's idea of a "cool bar scene." And, the cocktails? Thumbs down. Not one of our drinks was balanced. Each tipped the scale too far in one direction or the other. We even left without finishing our drinks - hoping that this was an aberration.

Surely a visit to Handshake for a nightcap would redeem Mexico City's cocktail cred, right?

Wrong.

The bar is located at the entranceway to a nondescript hotel, supposedly "hidden" because of its unmarked black door. Hmmm. The crowd lined up at the door gave that big secret away. Still, I was hopeful.

I shouldn't have been.

We were summoned inside and into a fairly non-descript room with a few flourishes - and then was thrown by a huge shout out from the staff and a few patrons: "Bienvenidos!"

Seriously?

And, they did that every single freakin' time anybody came into the bar.

That wasn't all. They tried to rally everyone to shout "Hasta luego" when parties left too.

Now the question is: how were the drinks? The answer: they were good.

They were mostly clarified punches. Tasty clarified cocktails. Were they mind-blowing? No. They were good. But definitely not good enough to off-set the cheesy, forced vibe in the room.

I can promise you that I will find a bar that I love in CDMX; maybe several. I'm just not going to follow the top bars lists anymore to find my Mexico City watering holes.

So, I didn't find my cocktail spot this time around. I will return. Great cocktails will be found. That said, I did find many a fine taco - and many other delights. In fact, there is a restaurant I need to tell you about. It was the flipside of my bar experience in CDMX. It was everything I wanted and more...Stay tuned...

I Depend On The Kindness of Bartenders

That subject line isn't completely accurate, but a kind bartender was much needed over the last week and a half. Why? Unfortunately, Mama Vamp has been in a Philadelphia hospital, with the road to the recovery seeming way too far off in the distance.

Thankfully, Philly bartenders are a kind and jovial lot -- not to mention talented.

Hat tip to Paul at the James Beard-nominated Love Bar at Friday Saturday Sunday, Cosette at a.Kitchen, Mikey and Sara at Dizengoff, and Wei-Wei at the stylish speakeasy Franklin Mortgage & Investment.

Have to give a special shout out to Mustafa, who I first encountered behind the bar Bolo. As soon as I spied his handcrafted pineapple cocktail strainer, I knew I had to have one. Bought one from him last night.

I hope to shake, stir and strain again soon, pineapple in hand. I will be raising a glass in honor of Mama Vamp's recuperation.

At The Bar In Berlin

A business trip to Berlin allowed me to reacquaint myself with the city from a different perspective -- a Kreuzberg perspective.

Whereas my last visit placed me firmly in the tony section of Mitte, this time I was going for hipster with a side of bohemia and an edge of artsy.

My client's headquarters was smack dab in the middle of this decidedly youthful, counterculture neighborhood. That made for access to some of the city's best Turkish food (yes, Adana Grillhaus is worth the fuss.) It also introduced me to the ever-so-elegant Oriana Hotel and its brilliant bar.

You know when you meet a bartender who you really connect with -- as a fellow cocktail nerd? I am lucky enough to say, I have a few bartending faves. Now, Julian Berger, the Oriana Bar's Bar Manager is among them.

Why? Let's just say that I caught the man making his own house non-alcoholic Amaro. Not enough? How about Peking Duck fat-washed Whiskey? Need more? Get a gander at this lovely...

Playfully enough, this cocktail is called a TonkaTruck. It includes Appleton Estate 8yr Reserve Estate Rum, Tonka, Coffee eau de Vie, a special Vermouth blend, Pedro Ximénez Sherry, and a Raspberry Cordial. Final flavor profile? A very surprising and very delicious perfectly ripe dark cherry.

Huzzah. I have my bar and my bartender in Berlin. Sehr gut!

Imbibing Brilliantly & My Baked Goods

I am a loud and proud cocktail nerd. Persnickety doesn't even begin to describe it. And, while I am finicky, I am also a fangirl. If a bar and/or bartender treats me right, I am on board. So much so, that home baked cookies might be in that mixologist's future. (Tipping well is a must, but I find that baked goods can take the bartender-barfly relationship to a whole other level.)

Behold above an Improved Pendennis Club -- a bewitching mix of Gin, apricot, lime juice and Peychaud's bitters. This beauty was had at Long Island Bar in Cobble Hill. Now, I have made cookies for the bar's Phil Ward in the recent past, but now I think I best make some for David Moo as well. Need to keep all the barkeeps there in tippage and Rosemary Shortbread.

And, if I am able to afford it, I might find the need to soon bake for the team that is mixing and shaking at The Portrait Bar. Check out this Martini variation called a Barrio Getsemani...

This lovely was stirred to perfection, made with Gin, aguardiente, a hint of passion fruit, Sherry, and cherry bark vanilla bitters. Soooo good.

NoMad is a bit far and the drinks are on the pricey-side, so not sure that becoming a regular is happening. But, brilliant cocktails are most definitely happening, whether at The Portrait Bar, Long Island Bar, or another watering hole. So, needless to say, butter, sugar and flour are on my grocery list.

North Fork Vines

Had a great conversation with Richard Olsen-Harbich, the winemaker at Bedell Cellars. The chat was recorded for posterity on New Books Network, where I invited Olsen-Harbich to talk about his book Sun, Sea, Soil, Wine: Winemaking on the North Fork of Long Island and delve into the environmental elements that make the North Fork an idyllic location for great winemaking. He also provided expert insights into the impact of climate change, the natural wine trend, and the genetically modified plant debate. I also asked him for his views on restaurant wine programs, books for aspiring winemakers, and the best wineries to visit in the region.

Take a listen here.

Now, admittedly I have yet to be fully enamored by North Fork wines, but now I am tempted to break out a bottle or two and see if I can fall in love with local vines. I am up for the tasting!

New Finds In Lisbon

Yes, when I am lucky enough to visit somewhere more than once, I adore returning to old haunts and fabulous favorites. But, there is still something in the depths of my food-obsessed soul that yearns to uncover the new.

Now, I didn't think I would actually "discover" anything that wasn't on the radar of others during my latest trip to Lisbon. That being said, did end up following the advice of Culinary Backstreets and nabbed myself a reservation at a fairly new hot spot - Tasca Baldracca - a very cool, casual restaurant in Mouraria. It comes equipped with an oversized chalkboard to share today's menu, heavily tattooed owners who can't wait to pour you a glass of wine that will put a smile on your face, and just enough attitude to make sure you know that you've been somewhere special.

And, the food? AHH-MAZING!

After a glass of red that had me at "hello," I kept with the red theme - in this case with red meat...

This is unequivocally the finest Steak Tartare I have ever had. It was served with puffy, fried batons of pastry, so you could scoop up the raw goodness and spoon it into a bit of pastry for a contrast of flavors and textures. Add a bit of the umami-rich anchovy mayo or house-fermented mustard and it was over the top.

Next up, I went for something cooked...

This Roasted Suckling Pig had a crackling that balanced crisp with a touch of fatty chew. The meat was beyond tender. The fennel and orange salad alongside had a handful of chili peppers, and the heat made the whole dish come together beautifully.

And, who was I to say no to dessert?

Yes! The chalkboard said Leite Creme de Doce de Liete - and I knew that a custard of what we call Dulce de Leche would be a lovely finish. When one of the owners plunked down a glass and a whole bottle of Moscatel to go with, I knew that this was less of a finish and more of a finale.

It was an incredible meal. I could have ended the night there. But, I didn't.

Just steps away there was a "Basque-Italian" bar called Quattro Teste that called to me. The room was elegant, yet cozy. Strangely, it was empty at first, but within a few minutes avid cocktail fans started to make their way in. Thankfully, I had an opportunity to speak with owner/bartender Alf before the place got too busy and met his partner and wife Marta as well. One G&T later, I was ready to try one of their own concoctions...

The Piemontese was a cocktail to love - Cucielo Rosso vermouth, Stravecchio Branca brandy, Nardini Elixir de China, and Izarra Groc. It was an aromatic, bitter nightcap that capped me off brilliantly.

No surprise here if Tasca Baldracca and Quattro Teste end up on my "must return" list whenever I am next in Lisbon.

I Don't Want Anything Too Sweet

That phrase can make a good bartenders' eyes roll. Why? Because the issue usually isn't sugar. It's that the patron has had one too many poorly make cocktails that relied too heavily on simple syrup to do the work alongside the booze. A well-balanced cocktail can have sugar. It's all in the balance.

Case in point - a drink at The HiHi Room called Rum & Cake. Get it? Rum & Cake! It literally brings together Mount Gay XO Rum and a Coconut Cake in a glass.

I can hear you now, "Ick! That sounds way too sweet for me!"

But this isn't an over sweetened mess. In fact, it is quite the opposite. This an astutely built beverage. Couldn't expect less from HiHi's gifted lead bartender Izzy Tulloch, who just left the Cobble Hill restaurant to join the team at Soho's soon-to-open Milady's.

And, to make matters even more transcendent, let me tell you about that Coconut Cake that's in the drink. It is by none other than celebrated Pastry Chef Caroline Schiff of Gage & Tollner, who was just named one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs of 2022. That cake has some serious street cred.

The pair wash Lustau Sherries with the cake. Yes, you read right. That is Coconut Caked-washed Sherry in that drink alongside the rum. Then a bit of Coconut Demerara to complete the beverage that will make your eyes roll - roll back into your head with pleasure that is.

Donut Recovery & Rooftop Drinks

I am seeing signs of recovery in New York. There is still a throwback feeling of living in the Koch-era at times, but I feel like things are pick up steam again. I've seen this concept of a "donut recovery" bandied about. No, Fan-Fan, Doughnut Plant and Dough won't save us. (What a delicious set of saviors!) We're talking about a "donut-shaped recovery" in which the outerboroughs and environs of NYC spring back to life while Manhattan and Midtown in particular take much longer to revive.

In some ways, I can see that being a solid call. But, New York always likes to prove the exception to the rule. And, not long ago I was invited by a liquor world insider to an event in Manhattan's Financial District that was very exception-al.

In this case, it was an introduction to a new sourghum-based spirit called Soka from Empirical, a cutting edge distillery in Copenhagen. What made it exceptional? First off, the drinks were undeniably delicious...

And, the crowd was ecstatic to be out-and-about as well.

Out-and-about, you say?

Well, it was a pretty darn exception-al version of out-and-about, one that literally took all of us outside on the 64th floor of a FiDi high-rise. The bar was called Overstory. Words cannot fully describe the soaring view, so take a look...

Sitting down on the other side of the wraparound terrace facing Brooklyn was pretty incredible too...

New York City sparkled from that vantage. With a drink in hand and friends by my side, I'd even have to say that it looked magical.

And, as I took in the bar's 360-degree panorama I started thinking that maybe the city was a box of donuts. There would be holes, but tasty bits would surround them. And, if the city's history is any guide, those holes won't remain. Someone or something will always want to claim a place in the city, make their mark. But right then, I was hopeful for the city's future.

Not sure how long I can hold onto that feeling. Perhaps I'll need to revisit Overstory and have a sip of Soka sooner than I think.

Apero Hour Hits Paris

For those of you who aren't aware, not only did I fall down the pandemic rabbit hole of tuning in 6 days a week to watch cookbook author and former pastry chef David Lebovitz shake and stir up Instagram Live "Apero Hours" for several months - but I took it one step further. (Are you surprised? I think not.)

When Paris reopened from lockdown in late May 2020, David Lebovitz declared that he was putting an end to the regular "Apero Hour" series. I understood completely. But was still upset - not just about losing my daily fix of David himself, but because of the others that I had met virtually in the chat box.

Odd to think you can "meet" people in a chat box, but somehow we managed!

Well, when he declared that "Apero Hour" was coming to an end, I suddenly typed up an "Oh, no! We're going to need to set up an IG hub to keep this group together!"

I said it. Now I had to do it. And so, it was done.

I recruited two other "Apero Hour" regulars to join me: one from Portland, Oregon - Heidi, known as @UncommonMuse on Instagram, and the other from Olso, Norway - Judah, known as @StreetofTrees on IG. For 15 months, the three of us each posted one photo a week and a thought starter or such to keep the conversation going.

And so, it went.

We finally decided to have our own "Apero Hour Fans" handle come to a close in September 2021, vowing we'd start it up again whenever the three contributors were able to get together - in Paris.

Just a few weeks ago, we made that happen. The photo above is from our very first lunch all together at Les Rubis in the 2nd ARR. That's a Duck Heart Brochette if you're curious. It was delicious. But, much more importantly, Heidi, Judah and I felt like peas in a pod. In this case, the pod was the City of Lights. More specifically it was Sentier and the incredible foodie wonderland that is Rue Montorgueil...

and Rue du Nil...

Yes, there was pastry...

And, we even left the neighborhood a few times to imbibe...

Quite memorably, the above drinks were sipped at Sister Midnight. Other gorgeous cocktails were had at CopperBay, while bubbly Vouvray Brut was enjoyed at Le Bon Georges.

The pièce de résistance? It happened here...

A trip to Belleville to go to the much-lauded Combat bar. There, we raised a glass (okay, a couple of glasses!) with David Lebovitz and his husband Romain Pellas.

Yes, that's right. That's how we roll.

Tchin-tchin! And, considering the threat of variants still looms large, let me add a - Santé! - for good measure.

Mangiare e Bere a Roma Pt 2

In many ways I had two stays in Rome during my recent trip. First, I was the guest of my friend Tracy in Esquilino. Second, I absconded to a dreamy hotel - the Locarno - near Piazza del Popolo. Decorated in muted jewel tones with an air of the roaring twenties, the hotel made me feel transported. A perfectly made cappuccino in a sunny garden courtyard? That is a perfectly normal breakfast experience. Isabella Rossellini a few tables away? Par for the course at this magical spot.

The days whirled by with a mix of wandering Rome and working until dinnertime - conducting the latter from the Locarno's rooftop lounge.

Not too shabby, right?

And, yes, it is a perfect spot for a nibble. The kitchen wasn't serving upstairs one afternoon, so I took the opportunity to grab a Porchetta Sandwich for lunch and make a picnic of it, computer by my side.

Not a bad office lunch situation, right?

And, what did I do for a big finish? I nabbed a barstool at Il Marchese - a gorgeous bustling spot with a Michelin Bib accolade and an Amaro Bar with nearly 500 labels on offer. Needless to say, the cocktails were spot on...

So was the food - from a half portion of Carbonara to a luscious helping of Steak Tartare, dressed with the sunniest yellow egg yolks on the planet and thinly sliced, pink pickled onions...

And, for dessert? I did dip a spoon into a Pistachio Tiramisu, but the sweets after dessert were particularly sublime...

Così incredibile!