VittlesVamp

Canceling Cookbooks?

A recent conversation got me to thinking.

It was an innocent enough exchange. Was talking to a friend about one of the cookbooks that I featured during a podcast interview - "Ed Mitchell's Barbeque." I waxed on about how I appreciated both the recipes and the insightful headnotes, as well as the fire-building science and lessons in Southern foodways history.

And, then he asked me a follow-up: What other cookbooks would you recommend?

I immediately mentioned Samin Nosrat's "Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat." It is a go-to on several fronts; a book that celebrates and educates all at once.

I also cited the "Gjelina" cookboook from Travis Lett, explaining that I regularly tap the Condiments section, but avoid the majority of the recipes since most require a wood-burning oven or grill. (Shocker - I have neither in my Brooklyn apartment.)

That was the end of the chat. But, I was left with the gnawing sense that I hadn't been 100% honest.

While I definitely use those two cookbooks a great deal, it's actually a book called "Molto Gusto" that I have turned to time and time again. Many of its pages are graced by ingredient splatter. That's the sign.

The problem?

The book is a collection of recipes from Mario Batali's now-shuttered Otto Enoteca Pizzeria. I used to frequent the restaurant bar, adoring the menu's Fregula with Corn and Cauliflower alla Siciliana, the wafer-thin Vongole Pizza, and its genius Olive Oil Gelato. The bartenders would often pour me a glass of Prosecco before I'd even shimmied my way onto a stool.

"Molto Gusto" has recipes that bring me back to that bar. They are flavorful and thoughtful. I have never had one of the recipes let me down. They are that good.

But what to do about the cookbook's author?

To put it nicely: Mario Batali has fallen from grace. To be blunt: Mario Batali has been revealed to be a vile sexual predator. While one court may have found him not guilty, the once iconic superstar chef has been very much canceled.

Does that mean that "Molto Gusto" needs to be canceled too?

I have been wrestling with that question. My answer: While I do not want to endorse Batali, I can't help but think that it is possible to separate the recipes from the man. And to make the decision even a bit easier to swallow, Mark Ladner is a co-author, and the dessert recipes come from a brilliant female pastry chef, Meredith Kurtzman, rather than Batali.

So, ask me again. What cookbooks would you recommend?

"Molto Gusto" will be among them.

From Pastrami To Crackling Pork Skin

Have a couple of new podcast interviews to share from my work with New Books Network.

Absolutely adored chatting with Author/Illustrator Ben Nadler about his new book "The Jewish Del: The Illustrated Guide to the Chosen Food." We covered a lot of Judaic ground in this discussion, hitting upon topics that range from the differences between pastrami, corned beef, and Montreal smoked beef to favorite bagel sandwiches to the glories of the black-and-white cookie to genesis of all things Kosher.

If you enjoy any of these things - and are even up for talk of eating tongue and stuffed derma - I urge you to take a listen.

And, I was lucky enough to speak with Ryan Mitchell, one of the authors of "Ed Mitchell's Barbeque" which shares the story of his father's rise to pitmaster legend. Ryan is a renowned pitmaster in his own right, and we dove into complex history of North Carolina whole-hog barbeque - a method passed down through generations over the course of 125 years and hearkens back even further than that, to his ancestors who were plantation sharecroppers and, before that, enslaved.

We also chatted about the importance of backyard brisket as a competitive sport, why deviled eggs make for genius culinary canvasses, and the perfect menu and playlist for a pig pickin'.

Listen to the interview here.

Christmas In July

I just came back from a few weeks in Philadelphia and in addition to grabbing a coveted table at the OG location of Laser Wolf, I was lucky enough to snag a reservation with friends at South Philly's River Twice during their weeklong "Christmas in July" dinner series.

Christmas in July?

Does that mean Egg Nog, Roasted Goose and Fruitcake in 90 degree weather? Thankfully, not.

It is a series of evenings in which River Twice's celebrated Chef and Owner Randy Rucker pairs up with other local Philly-area chefs to create incredible one-night-only dinners. The evening I attended, he teamed up with Chef Alex Kemp of one of the city's newest hot spots, My Loup.

The 7-course dinner was nothing less than stupendous. (Yes, I said stupendous. I could have said un-freakin-believable, but this was an elegant repast. I felt the use of a thesaurus was in order!)

First up was a sweet Raw Scallop with Tomato Water, Finger Lime, Verbena Oil, Preserved Ground Cherries and Currants. Snapshot of the glorious crudo is above.

Below, is a photo of the wholly moan-worthy second course - Beef Tartare with Fried Oysters and Romano Beans...

It took "surf and turf" to another level.

Next up was Heirloom Corn Grits with Miso-Mustard Smoked Maine Unagi and Summer Truffle...

Yaaaassssss!

And, because good, fresh corn is plentiful, that dish was followed by Skate Cheeks with Corn, Tomato and Basil...

That sauce!

Maine returned to East Passyunk with a piece of seared Wild Maine Halibut with Lightly Dried Tomatoes, Sea Beans, Kombu Butter and Golden Ossetra Caviar...

A little caviar is always a fine idea. Yup!

And, for the final savory course, the twosome of Chefs Rucker and Kemp delivered big time...

Braised Rabbit with Foie Gras, Carrots and Egg Noodles.

Simply using my words will never do this dish justice. Instead, imagine a wide smile and my eyes rolling back into my head.

Mmmmmmmmmm...

But then there was one more course before we set course back home to dream of sugarplums (or in my case, that Braised Rabbit).

Corn took the stage again with a Blueberry and Corn Tart...

A few bites in and that dinner was tied up with an ever-so-tasty bow.

Needless to say, I am ready to book a res for next year's "Christmas in July." It might just be my new favorite holiday season!