I love Vietnamese food. It's bright flavors, palm sugar hits of sweetness, married with the briny bite of fish sauce, is a genius combination in my book.
I have often bemoaned the lack of great Vietnamese fare in New York City, accepting the fact that without a big Vietnamese population, we couldn't expect big Vietnamese restaurant wins. So, I'd typically steer myself towards one of the Vietnamese neighborhoods in Philadelphia when I went to see Mama Vamp, to get my fill of glorious bowls of Pho or chilled noodle-icious Buns.
Then a few years ago a couple of hipster Vietnamese spots arrived in Brooklyn. I was very excited. But, one of the restaurants quickly shuttered and the other one fell off considerably in terms of service. Once in a while I would order from the fast-casual Vietnamese mini-chain Hanco's nearby, but it always tasted like a muted, more Americanized version of the Hanoi- and Saigon-style food that I'd fallen in love with elsewhere.
Then, a few months ago I ventured into the tea garden of a new Vietnamese spot in Williamsburg called Bolero -- a place that was decidedly elegant, while aiming for big flavors. I have returned two times more, each time finding something new on the menu to get me grinning from ear-to-ear.
Pictured above, Littleneck Clams and fragrant lemongrass leaves, steamed in a Saigon beer broth with charred ramp oil, garlic, shaved salted chicken egg and coriander.
Pictured below, turmeric-marinated Skate with bronze fennel, radicchio, pickled cantaloupe, tricolor carrots, onion flowers, sesame cracker and fermented fish sauce vinaigrette...
Can you see why I was grinning ear-to-ear?
But, lucky enough for me this is a tale of two restaurants -- two new Vietnamese places to keep me in fish sauce and grins. Stay tuned for part 2...