VittlesVamp

Foodgasm in Bangkok - Pt. 2

What's better than going to a world-renowned food market in Bangkok?

Going to said market with a local chef by your side.

Luckily, my hotel was keen on making my foodie dreams come true and the Lebua's Thai Chef de Cuisine Prayong Khundongling graciously escorted me to Or Tor Kor Market, guiding me through colorful aisles filled with pristine produce, dried fish and seafood piled high like jewels, bags of every type of rice imaginable...

...stalls packed with mangosteens and Thai rose apples, bottles of freshly pressed sugarcane juice, tray after tray of just-laid and pink preserved eggs...

...whole roasted ducks and chickens, bowls overflowing with dried chili peppers, and enough platters of Thai specialities to keep anyone happily grazing for days...

And, as if that wasn't enough to get my foodie on, Chef Khundongling whisked me away from the market and back to the hotel kitchen to teach me how to make a few regional dishes, including Gaeng Kiew Wan Khae (Thai Green Curry with Lamb), and Yam-Sam O (Pomelo Salad with Prawns)...

It made for a swoon-worthy lunch.

I followed that up with an all-important local tradition - Thai massage.

Two-hours of brilliant stretching and pummeling later and I was ready for another hard-hitting session of relaxing by the pool with a G&T in hand.

And, after all that, a final dinner in Bangkok meant hailing a cab and heading over to one of the most popular restaurants in town - Issaya Siamese Club. Just off a small side street, the restaurant is the flagship of famed Thai chef, cookbook author, and TV personality Ian Kittichai. Hidden from view until you walk through its gates, Issaya ushers guests through a lush garden, onto a magical terrace, and into an exquisite dining room brimming with tropical flowers and a mix of Thai and Moroccan antiques.

Oh, and then there's the meal. What a meal!

A blur of beautiful plating, intoxicating aromas, and intense flavors, I had a hard time not moaning at my table, especially when tucking into dishes such as a fork-tender Australian Veal Cheek Simmered in House Blended Spices, served with a generous drizzling of coconut milk and kaffir lime leaves.

Okay, I may have moaned a little. And, yes, it might have gotten me a bit of attention.

But, at least some of that attention was from Chef Kittichai himself, just returned from snagging number 21 at the 2017 Awards for the Top 50 Restaurants in Asia. He was utterly charming and I was delighted to thank him for such an amazing dinner. He smiled and thought it wise to send me off with a special opportunity to continue my Bangkok foodgasm at home...

...presenting me with a signed copy of his Issaya Siamese Club Cookbook.

So, I may be back in Brooklyn, but New York has plenty of Thai groceries available, and I'm armed with some mighty fine recipes.

There's no reason for this foodgasm to stop now - or ever.

Foodgasm in Bangkok - Pt. 1

I had expected to be taken with Bangkok, but I think Bangkok might have taken me. And, it all started with this view - from my hotel suite.

Wow.

The city skyline from the 54th floor of the Lebua Tower Club. I was on the balcony, gazing out in amazement at the never-ending sea of skyscrapers, when there suddenly was a loud "Bzzzz..."

I opened the front door and in an elegant whoosh a gentleman laid out a complimentary box of gourmet chocolates and...

...a welcoming platter of perfectly ripe fruit. And, with another whoosh, the gentleman was gone.

Oh, yes, I was in the right place.

There was just enough time for a late afternoon dip in the pool and a G&T before heading out to dinner to Thong Lor district's Soul Food Mahanakorn.

I'd heard good things. They weren't nearly good enough.

My appetizer of Southern Thai Samosas was sublime, crackling crisp springroll wrappers tightly wound into triangles around spice-tinged lamb. One dunk into the mint-yogurt dip alongside and I was a goner. Then there was the Crab and Lemongrass Curry with Rice Noodles, a small bowl of incredibly fragrant, spicy crab curry stew. I gleefully spooned in rice vermicelli noodles to sop up every last drop.

Now, those were just my first few foodie hours in Bangkok.

Once firmly ensconced in my sweet hotel suite post-dinner, I happily drifted off to sleep, ready to take on the city in full-fledged tourist mode in the morning.

Little did I know that food-focused adventures awaited me well before 8am, starting with a train stop streetfood stall...

Yeah, we're talking about Spicy Papaya Salad expertly made only a few short feet from the railroad tracks. And, there were juicy, marinated Pork Skewers too.

My kind of breakfast!

And, then I got onto a train - one bound and determined to drive us right through a bustling food market...

Yes, took that picture from aboard the choo-choo, watching the vendors at the Maeklong Railway Market quickly pull back their awnings and edible wares as the train pulled in, along with a thousand tourists snapping photos to catch the action.

Walking through the market post-choo-choo, I bought some sliced pomelo for the road, as I headed to another famous Bangkok market - this one on water...

Bangkok's Floating Market is every bit as crowded and touristy as you might expect. Still, I was able to get my hands on a bowl of heady chicken broth with homemade noodles that had me slurping joyfully as I was paddled through the canals...

The day was far from over. I took in other awe-worthy sights, including the glittering Grand Palace and epic Wat Pho temples.

By the time I got back to the hotel, I was nearly too exhausted to check out Lebua's famous Sky Bar.

Nearly.

Thankfully, I rallied and made my way to the 64th floor open air rooftop lounge.

Greeted with a panoramic view of the city, twinkling at night, jazz playing in the background, how could I resist the pull of the rooftop's Perrier-Jouet champagne bar Flute? I couldn't. I didn't. It is the highest al fresco champagne in the world. I had no choice. Vintage champagne was happening. Happening big time.

Toddling back to my room, I realized that I wasn't going to get back out into the city for dinner. Perhaps I'd been a bit too "big time" with the champagne. No need to worry though. An order of exquisite Pad Thai from room service did the trick and I soon hit the hay, catching some much-needed zzz's.

Had to be well-rested. Tomorrow morning, Bangkok's legendary Or Tor Kor Market was on the menu...

The Fruit Wars of Kuala Lumpur

Breathtakingly beautiful. Looking up at the Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur's legendary Hindu shrine, I was overwhelmed by its otherworldiness.

And, then I looked down and across the sun-drenched plaza and got very, very thirsty...

Oh, yes. This is how coconut water was meant to be had. No bottles needed here. Just the real stuff, straight from the source.

And, later visiting one of the city's bustling wet markets, it was clear that a great deal of gorgeous Malaysian produce is at-the-ready.

Coconuts and pineapples are plentiful. I even spotted dragonfruit at a local supermarket. Yet, I couldn't help but notice that the locals were obsessed with one fruit alone - the stinkiest fruit on the planet.

We're talking about durian. I have friends who rhapsodize about this custardy, pungent fruit. They're not alone. I saw durian candies, durian coffee, durian cookies, and durian chips crowding Kuala Lumpur market shelves. Elsewhere I spied durian tea, durian cakes, durian mochi, and durian ice cream. And, that's just scratching the surface of the country's durian fixation.

I just can't do it. I've tried. I've really tried. But, it's just too freakin' noxious for me. (Let's remember, that many local hotels - including the one I stayed at - forbid guests to bring durian to their rooms, lest the stench pervade the premises.)

So, I stuck with the coconut in all its many delicious forms. I not only rejoiced in drinking its water and spooning out its tender white flesh, but also enjoyed its milky essence in the beloved national dish - Nasi Lemak.

This stupendous plate of rice, chicken, sambal chili, hard-boiled egg, cucumbers, peanuts, and dried anchovies is the product of Village Park, a place celebrated for its genius Nasi Lemak. I've already found a recipe which is reported to replicate their shatteringly crisp and spicy fried chicken, but I need to figure out how to make the dish's signature coconut and Pandan-scented rice at home. I think freshly squeezed coconut milk is one of the primary ingredients.

So, we're back to coconut once again. I realize that I'm outnumbered by durian lovers when it comes to Malaysia. Even so, I'll stick with the preferred tastes of this particular Malaysian...

I really think he's got something there. Mind you, he's also got something caught in his teeth. But at least that "something" is a bit of coconut goodness. No durian in sight.

I'm with the wild monkey on this one.