VittlesVamp

Coursing Through Argentina

Why stop at one when you can have two? Why stop at two when you can have three? Or why not just get on the Argentina multi-course meal bandwagon and have a tasting menu of eight dishes along with wine pairings?!?

Didn't do it for every meal, but admittedly I indulged in a few multi-course adventures while south of the equator, including a two-course business lunch in the stylish dining room of Unik in Buenos Aires' Palermo Soho, where my first course of Reblochon and Corn Creme Brulee with Hazelnut Dust (pictured above) was so divinely rich that I almost had them cancel my second course of Patagonian Lamb Two-Ways with Eggplant Puree and Chickpea Fritters -- almost.

An even more decadent multi-course lunch was had at the Andeluna Winery in Uco Valley, Mendoza, where I partook in six courses, including this homemade Cacao Ravioli Stuffed with Braised Beef, finished with rosemary-perfumed cream sauce and a melt-in-your-mouth cheese crisp...

And, yes, there was a different wine to accompany each dish.

Those were just the lunches. There were multi-course dinners too. Several of them.

I hit elegant closed-door hot spots i Latina and Casa Coupage -- and I'm still dreaming of the Baru-Style Ceviche with Mango Biche and Coconut from the former and the Lamb Ravioli with Candied Cherry Tomatoes and Mint from the latter.

I also made my way to some lesser-known restaurants for incredible tasting menus at bargain prices. I can't stop thinking about the eight-course dinner I had at Astor Bistro for a mere $370AR -- that's less than $40USD if you are going by the current official exchange rate. And let me say that their Ostrich Tartare with Pickles, Egg Yolk and Capers was a showstopper at any price. The cash-only Restó, tucked in the Central Society for Architects in Recoleta, was a winner as well, with several three-course menu options from $330AR to $420AR. Let me insist that you get the Roasted, Stuffed Quail. Delicioso!

So, after all that, when did I find time to get to some of Argentina's famous steaks? Don't you worry. I'll report on the bife soon enough!

Italiano en Argentina

I may be in Argentina, but I keep thinking of Italy. Why? There is something very Italiano about Buenos Aires. Argentina most certainly has a strong national identity all its own, but let us not forget that the Italian population in Argentina is only second to Italy itself. Nearly two out of three Argentinians are of Italian descent.

What does this mean for me and my time in Buenos Aires (self-centered soul that I am)?

It means that I have the opportunity to indulge in helado (aka gelato) on pretty much every block of the city. Heck, they even deliver the stuff here until 2am! Eating pizza here is a national pastime, although I admittedly prefer its brethren in Nuevo York. Italian digestif amaro like Fernet Branca and Cynar are top shelf on every bar. In fact, the former is so popular that Argentina lays claim to the only Fernet Branca distillery outside of Italy.

And, most importantly, they cook up some mean pasta and risotto in this city. Hitting Buenos Aires hot spot Crizia, I ooh-ed and aah-ed over luscious pappardelle with fresh scallops still nestled in their shells, bathed in a cream sauce with a splash of truffle oil. And, I had my eyes roll back into my head with pleasure as I tasted the gorgeous Risotto Milanese at Palermo Chica's La Locanda, arborio rice bright gold with saffron, topped with stewed veal shank in the style of Osso Bucco (see above).

So, in other words: Here in Buenos Aires, I am living la vida dolce!

Buenos Aires Takes Street Eats To A New Level

When considering the possibility of street fare in Buenos Aires, I was thinking along the lines of the gentleman above, who offers up lollipops in a handy styrofoam head and handmade candied nuts. Thought I might pass an empanada stand or two as well.

But this, I didn't expect...

Yes. This is simply a group of hombres who run the local corner grocery grilling up a little lunch for themselves - on a public sidewalk. And, it was quite a lunch...

Carne made caliente on the streets of BA. Apparently, it is the Porteño way.

Southern Fried Chicken South Of The Equator

You were expecting a post all about the beef, the glorious beef that I am presently privy to while spending the month in Buenos Aires. Have patience. You'll get your steak fix. But first, I need to tell you about some killer Fried Chicken.

We're talking genius dry brined bird, coated with a crackling crust and seasonings, deep-fried to perfection.

The restaurant is called NOLA. The location is BA's bustling Palermo Soho district. No faux Cajun here. There's a gal from New Orleans in the kitchen.

Chef Liza Puglia decided to give Buenos Aires a go after being charmed by an Argentine gent while traveling around Latin America. And now, Porteños eagerly line up for her gobsmackingly good Southern grub, including a serious bowl of Gumbo...

Where the heck does Liza find Andouille in this town? Chorizo, sí. Andouille, not so much.

I'm going to try to stop thinking about it, and simply promise myself a return trip to NOLA before my month in BA is up.

On My Way to Buenos Aires

I'm not flying Braniff, but hopefully I will just have landed in Buenos Aires safe and sound. I plan a month in the "Paris of South America," so get ready for posts about steak, empanadas, Malbec, and more...