VittlesVamp

The Truth About Mama Vamp In New Orleans

I know what you're expecting. I was expecting it too. I thought Mama Vamp would have her socks knocked off by the food and drink in New Orleans. And, with some of the fare in question, her socks made significant strides.

She reveled in the Rabbit and Dumplings and Wood-Fired Oysters with Chili-Garlic Butter at Chef Donald Link's Cochon.

She was equally impressed - if not more so - with Link's new seafood spot, Peche, where we downed Chilled Gulf Shrimp with rapturous glee and delighted in a plate of Smothered Catfish.

And, she most certainly took great pleasure in a round of Pimm's Cups at the touristy, yet wonderful Napoleon House.

Then there was the mind-blowing Friday lunch at Chef John Besh's magnificent August, which was topped off by not one, but three desserts, including the restaurant's swoon-worthy riff on Banana Pudding with Peanut Butter, Marshmallow and 'Nilla Wafer' Ice Cream.

There was also a plate of Fried Green Tomatoes at Elizabeth's in the Bywater that put a smile on Mama Vamp's face.

But all that - and even Cafe du Monde's Cafe au Lait and Beignets aside - it was the music that made Mama Vamp's trip a success. The enchanting twinkle in her eyes as she listened to the musical stylings of Antoine Diel at the Roosevelt Hotel was something I'd not seen before or since. (Mind you, that Beignet came awfully close.) But, Antoine and his repertoire of Cole Porter and Hoagy Carmichael songs had her grinning wider than the Cheshire cat and her toes were tapping with a rhythm that can only be fueled by pure joy.

Pure joy. If that isn't what New Orleans should be about, I don't know what is.

Laissez les bons temps rouler, Mama Vamp! You go!

The Other Other White Meat - Alligator

I've always considered myself an adventurous eater, but my dinner at The Explorers Club Annual Gala took my epicurean exploits to a whole other level. The evening opened up my palate to scorpions, goat brains, meal worms, maggots and other exotic nibbles. Truthfully though, it was the alligator that caught my eye and my taste buds.

I was a doubter at first, but I have to say that the alligators, pictured above in their 7-foot long glory, were downright delicious. Sort of a cross between eel and - you guessed it - chicken.

Keeping the gator momentum in play, a couple weeks back I was in Florida to visit Papa Vamp and spied some live alligators sunning themselves on nearby golf course.

Before I'd eaten one of those suckers, the sight of them would have made me dream of shoes and handbags. Now, I was simply thinking of dinner.

And, today I'm in New Orleans with Mama Vamp for a few days of food, drink and jazz -- and quite possibly, alligator. I have a reservation at Cochon for lunch later and I have to say that the kitchen's Fried Alligator with Chili Garlic Mayonnaise sounds awfully tempting.

Then again, I bet they could Cajun-up some maggots and they'd sound awfully tempting as well.

Then again, maybe not.

I'll stick with the alligator.