VittlesVamp

Friday Lunch

I almost felt obliged to skip breakfast before visiting the world famous Galatoire's. If all went right, the plan for midday was a ritual-filled, artery-clogging, three-hour Friday lunch at the celebrated historic hot spot on Bourbon Street.

But, all too easily, I buckled under the pressure of Sandra's grumbling stomach - not to mention the longstanding tradition of all out decadence in the Big Easy -- and ended up paying call on Cafe du Monde for a wake-up filled with Cafe au Lait and Beignets.

Nothing like caffeine, slabs of fried dough and copious amounts of powdered sugar to get a morning started off right.

So, how is it that the two of us were actually hungry when we headed through the French Quarter doors of Galatoire's at 11:15am? We arrived that early at the urging of New Orleans friends in the know. Early arrival was mandatory, if we wanted one of the desirable downstairs dining room tables which - by management's decree - could never be reserved.

Punctual, we hiked to the upstairs bar for a wait, and stepped into a room swarming with locals. Was it possible we got there too late? Thankfully, we were right on time and at noon we were rewarded with a plum table downstairs.

Seated among New Orleans' elite, our waiter and guide through the restaurant's weekly lunchtime festivities, Charlie, agreed that we should order a round of Sazeracs, lest we seem like scurrilous Yankees. A Galatoire Gouté was also ordered up right quick to start the meal off with a classic Creole combo of Shrimp Remoulade, Shrimp Maison, and Crabmeat Maison...

...offering up a trifecta which brilliantly showcased tomato zest, mayonnaise creaminess, caper zing, horseradish bite and sweet, meaty, fresh seafood. Oysters en Brochette was plunked down on the table as well, a light appetizer consisting of plump oysters and fatty bacon skewered, fried, and finished with meuniere butter. Dipping a piece of toast into the drippings, we agreed that this was a wonderful way to sinfully tease our palates, while concurrently widening our hips.

God bless Galatoire's!

The rest of the meal was a delicious whirlwind of delights, which included Sandra inhaling an entire loaf of Garlic Bread, smiling like the Cheshire cat and another round of Sazeracs. Next came a split twosome of entrees -- Broiled Lamb Chops with Bearnaise Sauce and Crab Sardou -- as well as a side of puffy, irresistible Souffled Potatoes.

And, the food kept coming. Sweet Potato Cheesecake with Spicy Pecans. Rich Caramel Custard. Potent cups of Cafe Brulot, dark Creole coffee tinged with cloves, cinnamon, orange peel, sugar and brandy, set aflame table-side.

But, little did we know that we had yet to reach the pinnacle of the Galatoire's Friday lunch experience.

That lofty distinction goes to a former New Orleans debutante that brought her baton to the restaurant and proceeded to enthusiastically twirl her way around the dining room...

You can't make stuff like this up. Even after three cups of Cafe Brulot.

It All Started With A Sazerac

It was raining cats and dogs when we landed in New Orleans. Just getting out of the cab and into the lobby of the Hotel Monteleone was a sopping wet adventure. Weather.com had warned us, but even equipped with umbrellas, we weren't amply prepared for the downpour.

Yet, we were on vacation. A girls' weekend in one of the most decadent cities on earth. A cloudburst wasn't about to stop Sandra and I from having a good time.

Strike that. A GREAT time.

So moments after we checked in, we ventured forth into the rain, down Royal Street until it turned into St. Charles Avenue. There, we grabbed a streetcar to take us to Lafayette Square and the promise of an open-air "rain or shine" concert by music legend Kermit Ruffins.

But, alas, "rain or shine" was a whole lot of of cock-and-bull. All we saw from the comfort of the streetcar was an empty stage in an empty square. Luckily though, traveling only a couple blocks further, we were able to find shelter from the rainstorm. My favorite kind of shelter. Shelter with a bar.

Drenched, we grabbed a couple of barstools at Herbsaint, one of New Orleans' finest dining establishments, and let the good times roll the N'awlins way: with a Sazerac.

My first taste of the Big Easy is pictured above. A beguiling drink, consisting of Rye Whiskey, Absinthe or Herbsaint, simple syrup, bitters and a gracefully curled lemon peel, a properly made Sazerac has a way of transporting the mind and spirit to a place of ease. Such was the case after one sip of this lovely beverage.

We paired our cocktails with a small plate of big proportions, a walloping dish of spicy Louisiana Shrimp and Grits with smoky Tasso Bacon and Okra.

The vacation had officially begun.

With the plate practically licked and two more Sazeracs laid waste, we headed off in a cab to Herbsaint's sister restaurant Cochon. A casual hotspot specializing in tongue-tingling Cajun cuisine, we found ourselves unable to say "no" to anything put in front of us, including Paneed Pork Cheeks with Pickled Green Tomatoes, Apples & Peas, a tantalizing Wood-Fired Oyster Roast...

...an Arugula Salad with crispy, beignet-like Pumpkin Calas, Pecans & Tasso Bacon, Catfish Courtbouillon, and Louisiana Cochon with Turnips, Cabbage & teeth-shattering Cracklins. We rounded the meal out with a side of rich Arcadian Eggplant & Shrimp Dressing and a dessert of homemade, still-warm-from-the-oven Pineapple Upside Down Cake.

It was a revelation of a repast. A few more Sazeracs only gilded the gustatory lilly.

The night came to close at the fabled Carousel Bar, turning ever so slowly around the room as we nipped at two more cocktails for the road -- or in this case, for the elevator up to our floor at the Monteleone, and off to sleep. As we drifted off to Nod, I could swear that Sandra asked one of life's most important questions:

"What's for breakfast?"

Big Easy By The Book

The new cookbook from New Orleans Chef John Besh arrived at more doorstep just in the nick of time. In time to fill my head with dreams of Belle River Crawfish Pie, Crab-and-Shrimp Stuffed Flounder, Busters and Grits, Oyster and Artichoke Soup and Old-Fashioned Double-Crusted Blackberry Pie. And, just in time, before I board a plane tomorrow with a good gal pal in tow to take on the Big Easy in high style.

A stop at Besh's Restaurant August is part of the plan, as is Friday lunch at Galatoire's, live jazz, voodoo trinket shops, cafe au lait and beignets at Cafe du Monde, and a Sazerac or two just to round out the whole experience.

Expect to hear more when I return...If I return...

Cotes Du Wrong

I'm not usually one to pay attention to advertisements when it comes to selecting a bottle of wine. But the new promotional posters for Cotes du Rhone caught my eye, due in no small part to an invitation to a celebratory fête -- a party at the Lower East Side's New Museum for the campaign.

The ying-yang message of these new ads wasn't exactly subtle.

Wear a folksy ethnic necklace or a spectacular diamond-encrusted piece? No matter your style, both go with a glass of Cote du Rhone!

Denim jacket or tuxedo? Jeans or elegant red dress? The perfect wine for either occasion!

Pepperoni pizza or a gourmet steak dinner? The choice for both is clearly Cotes du Rhone!

So, I had to ask myself: Why, oh why, was the entire event space stylishly decked out, featuring glamazon severs and an array of elegant hor d'oeurves?

Somewhere along the line, it seems that the intended brand messaging went awry.

Then again, maybe I just simply didn't warrant an invite to the second half of the event -- held around the corner at a casual dive with everyone wearing ethnic jewelry, denim jackets and jeans, while downing greasy slices of pizza from Domino's.

Proof That The Economy Is In The Crapper

Today's Wall Street Journal featured a Personal Journal cover story about making canned foods at home, spotlighting recipes for canning your own Pickles and Peach Jam.

Now, canning is all well and good, but the Journal is a publication that typically features food and drink reports about truffle auctions and high-priced tea obsessions.

Now, they're promoting canning. Canning?!?

Can't wait to see next week's Wall Street Journal feature on butter churning.

Pizza Pie -- Hold The Line

After some serious taste testing at the likes of Veloce, Sac's Place and Motorino in the search for pie perfection, I figured it was time to brave the blocks-long line of tourists at the Zagat-beloved, coal brick-oven, Brooklyn pizzeria Grimaldi's.

Actually, I decided to bypass the tourists. I'm a New Yorker. No time for standing on lines. So, instead of standing on Old Fulton for a hour or two to claim my 'za, I went on a Tuesday evening. Late evening. 15 minutes before the place closes.

The reward?

No line. Speedy service. And, most importantly, the beautiful, expertly-crafted specimen pictured above, topped with a zesty blanket of bright Tomato Sauce, a generous portion of oozing Mozzarella, slivers of sweet Roasted Red Peppers and leaves of fragrant, fresh Basil. Bellisima.

Still, I can't decide if I have a real fave though among all my recent pizza stops. When I'm honest with myself, I have to admit that I might just have to try them all again to make a judgment call. Moreover, I'll probably need to also stop by Lombardi's, Artichoke Basille's, Co. and travel to L&B Spumoni's for good measure, before a final verdict can be had from the Vamp.

Anyone want to join me?

Vendy Adventure - Part 2

Have you been watching your computer screen with bated breath wondering if I was able to secure the necessary serving trays for the Vendy VIP tables?

How could you doubt your Vamp? Of course I did! And, when I returned to the Queens Museum of Art with Mr. Dan, the trucks began to offer Vendy volunteers and board members some early tastings, starting with the gloriously, sweet and decadent Belgian offerings of Wafels & Dinges. As pictured above, it is a dessert to be reckoned with.

The rest of the fare ranged from Cravings' Taiwanese grub...

...to the spicy chow from Jamaican Dutchy...

...to the crack-cocaine allure of Schnitzel & Things, deep-fried, crispy Schnitzel...

The "Things" were tasty too.

No surprise, but dinner was a big "no" when I got home.