So, I come home from Napa without stepping foot into a Thomas Keller wine country restaurant, only to head straight to Per Se.
A Culinary Insiders event, I couldn't resist the notion of a private Champagne and appetizer session, plus a tour of Per Se's legendarily pristine kitchen.
For this, I was even willing to brave the mall that is the Time Warner Center.
I was quite right to do so.
If for no other reason: Unlimited access to Coronets with Salmon Tartare, Sweet Onion and Creme Fraiche.
And, just to push it over the edge: Access to Chef Keller as well, who graciously signed a French Laundry Cookbook to "The Vamp" and then summarily admonished my concept of riffing on his infamous Coronets with a Savory Miniature Cone filled with Slow-Roasted Tomato, Fresh Ricotta and Julienned Basil, topped with a small, meltingly lovely Veal Meatball.
Oh, well.
I still might make them despite Chef Keller's warnings. But, at least I'll do so with a signed copy of his cookbook at my side.
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