I've always liked the greenies when it comes to M&Ms. But generally I'm more of a dark purple/black gal when it comes to olives, usually reaching for the Kalamatas. The greenies never held the same appeal. That is, until now. Until Castelvetranos.
There's a reason they are the olive bar rage at Whole Foods and beyond. The San Francisco Chronicle has this to say about these plump, mild, buttery, ever-so-slightly briny beauties:
Castelvetranos are harvested young and cured in lightly salted brine, which accounts for their bright green hue (it's not food coloring) and meaty texture. With a mild, nuanced flavor that's both salty and sweet, the fruit appeals not only to olive aficionados, but also to those who shy away from stronger, brinier varieties. Some refer to them as the rich man's version of the mild black olives we were drawn to as kids.
Fresca Italia manager Andy Lax says that the company actually began carrying the Castelvetranos about 4 years ago, but it wasn't until recent months that they exploded onto the scene - likely due to the fact that more markets and restaurants started ordering them.
"It used to be that we were selling a pallet every couple of months or so," he says, referring to a flat that holds 100 ten-pound buckets. "Now we do one or two a week. We can't get them in fast enough."
The importing company is the largest supplier of the olives in the Bay Area, selling to markets like Bi-Rite, Rainbow and Whole Foods. But according to Lax, Bay Area restaurants are clamoring for them as well.
At Perbacco, the olives show up in nearly every course. Chef Staffan Terje serves them as a simple bar snack drizzled with Castelvetrano oil, throws them into a braised lamb dish, cracks them into vinaigrettes and pasta sauces, and pairs them with mozzarella.
"They're mild, and they don't have a lot of contradicting flavors," says Terje, "so you can put them in sauces or braises and they don't overpower the dish."
But Terje says they get the most recognition at the bar, where they're pitted and dropped into martinis.
So, once again, I can claim a fondness for the greenies. And, this time, they even go seamlessly with a stiff drink. (After all, M&Ms are notoriously difficult to pair with a cocktail.)
Comments