One step through its unmarked door and into a throng of New Yorkers looking for the next big thing, and I knew that Macao Trading Company, an Asian-Portugese fusion fantasy, had been deemed "the next big thing" -- at least for the time being.
Making it past the crush at the bar, I heard a beleaguered hostess explaining to a late-to-arrive party that they would have to eat up quick, since the next round destined for their table would be by in an hour or so.
Luckily, my table-mates were on time, but I must admit that we wondered about the pressure being "on" to gobble and go, when our waiter brought all of our small and large plate orders at once.
There's no lallygagging and multi-coursing at this new restaurant. No sir-ee Bob.
And that's a shame. Cause, there is the temptation to linger at least a little bit when the latest hot spot touts cocktails by the crew at Employees Only and chow from the esteemed chef behind Chanterelle.
That said, the food was colorful, but not exactly exceptional. Same for the cocktails, which were much too sweet for my taste. The Warm Chorizo with Melon and Mint (pictured above) was something I could have quite easily tossed together in my home kitchen. A plate of Ants Climbing a Tree -- A.K.A. rice noodles with spicy ground pork -- was similarly simple, albeit not wholly unsatisfying. Our dessert of Fried Milk with Honey Citrus Salad, was uninspired blandness tossed in cinnamon sugar.
Still, the scene was thumping. And, even if it wasn't, shoddy acoustics turned the dining room into a deafening cloud of chattering and clattering.
Have to admit, I was somewhat relieved when the beleaguered hostess made her way to our table to inform us that -- although on time -- our time was up. Another party was awaiting our corner of Macao.
They can have it.
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