VittlesVamp

Ducking In & Out Of Beijing

Arriving in Beijing, I did the typical tourist things. I spent a few hours touring the Forbidden City. I ventured outside the city to visit the Ming Tombs and the remote Mutianyu section of the Great Wall.

Beautiful. Awe-inspiring.

Even so, I know what my dear readers care about: How was the duck?

Don't worry. I didn't hit Beijing without tasting its most famous dish, Peking Duck. And, of course I hit one of the most lauded duck-dens in town -- Dadong -- to try an authentically glossy, dark brown, crisp-skinned quacker, sliced by a master and stuffed in wafer-thin pancakes with slivers of scallion and cucumber and a dab of hoisin sauce.

It wasn't the Great Wall, but awe-inspiring nonetheless.

That said, what really made me develop a taste for Beijing was one of those Louis Vuitton Soundwalk audio guides I'd mentioned earlier. This time, I had acclaimed Chinese actress Gong Li leading me through the labyrinth of a bustling hutong district near the Central Academy of Drama, where she had studied in her youth.

Weaving in and out of tiny alleyways, Gong Li lead me to a haunted bell tower and the homes of warring neighborhood pigeon trainers, acquainted me with local philosopher and poet Mr. Wu and cricket aficionado Mr. Kung, pointed out an old revered weeping willow tree and new cafes crammed with students, and directed me to a Muslim food stall, where I couldn't resist the aroma of frying vegetable fritters...

...purchasing a handful of these bite-sized treats for a single yuan. I popped them into my mouth as I continued to wander through the ancient quarter, passing colorful markets, the Air Force compound and the grounds of the Central Academy of Drama itself.

The tour concluded at a serene courtyard hutong restaurant called Source which specializes in Szechuan cuisine.

Glancing into the charming dining room, my stomach began to rumble and I immediately recognized that a few wee fritters didn't constitute lunch. So, I gave into Source's fixed lunch menu and quickly found myself enjoying a range of delicacies, including a spicy Pork Rib, tongue-numbing Dan Dan Noodles and flavorful Chicken with Straw Mushrooms Baked in Bamboo.

Staring out into the restaurant's peaceful garden, filled with pomegranate and date trees, listening to the sweet sounds of a bird singing, while sipping a cup of fragrant tea, I couldn't help but silently thank Gong Li, Louis Vuitton and whatever stroke of luck that had landed me there.

You rarely get moments quite like that in your life. And, they rarely come with kickin' Dan Dan Noodles to boot.

A Break From China For A Little Americana

Just returned from a decidedly non-Asian dinner with a friend at PJ Clarke's Sidecar, where I supped on Oysters on the Half-Shell, a juicy Cheeseburger and addictive Creamed Spinach.

Not surprisingly, being back in the States, discussion turned to the economy. My companion wasn't sure if some of this downturn wasn't simply caused by fear feeding on fear.

I couldn't disagree, adding this little nugget "Forget about the dips in the Dow or the Consumer Confidence Index. When hookers by the Holland Tunnel start accepting coupons, that's when we'll know the American economy is really in the toilet."

Curious if the Wall Street Journal would consider "Holland Tunnel Hooker Watch" to keep us updated.

Getting Crabby In Shanghai

After my trip to Xi'Tang I didn't expect to be wow-ed again for a while.

Boy, was I wrong.

Amelia's in-the-know friend Angeline had reserved a table for a party of 8 at Shanghai's Home's Restaurant on Julu Lu, where Shanghainese specialties took centerstage -- most especially crab.

We started by sucking on delicate, succulent bits of Raw Drunken Crab (pictured above), marinated in rice wine. Then we moved on the the main event: Hairy Crab...

Lucky for me, these world-famous freshwater crustaceans were in season, so we ordered up a dozen. Angeline gave expert instruction on how to open the furry-clawed suckers and we soon were slurping and scraping out the tender, milky flesh.

Mmmm...

Our nightcap of sickly sweet Margaritas at Shanghai's award-winning Mexican hot spot Maya, didn't do the crab dinner justice, but the crowd was thumping and supposedly the chef had won raves for his Chili.

That said, I was too full up on the crab to start digging into Maya's menu. And, sugary or not, the Margarita was starting to kick in.

Time to hit the hay. Tomorrow was another day. And, Beijing awaited...

Venice With Dumplings

The water village of Xi'Tang was a dreamy maze of ancient canals, boats, stone facades, incense-perfumed temples, red lanterns, narrow alleyways and market stalls, packed with sights, sounds and scents that tantalized at every turn. From the wafting odor of an elderly woman frying up Stinky Tofu outside her doorway to the splashing rhythm of the garbage collection junk's oars to the vision of a local washing her laundry in the canal...

...the village beguiled. It wasn't exactly the "the Venice of the Orient," but it was picturesque and haunting all the same.

And, at my earnest behest, my guide agreed to let us stay in Xi'Tang for lunch, forgoing gloppy turistica Chinese-American fare on the road back to Shanghai for a more authentic meal at the Quiantang Hotel, where we dug into delicacies such as Fresh Waterchestnuts with Edamame...

Glistening Pork Shoulder Baked in Lotus Leaves...

...and a rich Duck Soup, chock full of tempting Duck Dumplings, bobbing chunks of ginger and the occasional duck foot or two...

Lunch was almost as exquisite as the scenery.

Almost.

March Of The Dumplings Continues

After an impressive introduction to Shanghai, I naturally expected to hit a few low points. Bizarrely enough though, they all happened in one day - the day I decided to book a day trip to Hangzhou, a popular tourist destination two hours from Shanghai.

The Gray Line tour company promised stops at Six Harmonies Pagoda, a local tea plantation and time to enjoy the grandeur of the fabled West Lake with its majestic causeway, gardens, pavilions and more. Sounds wonderful, right?

Not so much.

The tour guide clearly hated his job and the other two tourists booked on the tour -- an Israeli father and daughter team -- were an odd, complaining pair. Then, the stops on and off the van seemed to be more about the quick photo opp than actually learning about the place we were visiting. The only exception was the tea plantation (pictured above) which offered a respite complete with tea tasting and lovely scenery, but also included a hard sell from our "tea master" to buy, buy, buy.

Bye-bye.

Thankfully, things took a turn when I returned to Shanghai and Amelia booked us a table at one of the city's legendary restaurants, M on the Bund.

The name wasn't a lie. The lavish Art Deco dining room was most certainly on the Bund, as evidenced by the spectacular view from our roof terrace perch...

And if that wasn't yummy enough, there was the food...

This reinterpretation of Turkish Manti Dumplings wasn't exactly typical Chinese fare, but my plate of tender, plump babies stuffed with flavorful lamb and drizzled with jus and creme fraiche was a tasty treat nonetheless.

In fact, the whole dinner was a treat, from the vista to the food to the company. Now I just had to keep the momentum going.

I had another excursion planned for the next day. Could be cause for concern, but I had learned my lesson. No more Gray Line for me. Instead, at Amelia's insistence, I had agreed to fork over the yuan for a private driver and Ritz-Carlton-recommended guide in order to visit one of the famed water villages outside of Shanghai -- one not firmly planted on the tourist maps and most certainly not on any mainstream Gray Line tour.

Still, after the day's experiences I was nervous. Would Xi'tang simply be another disappointing photo opp or an authentic glimpse into China?

More to come, but until then, here's a sneak peek...

I Went To Shanghai. I Had The Dumplings.

Damn straight, I had the dumplings. Within minutes of arriving at Amelia's Shanghai pad, we were off to the city's popular Xintiandi complex to meet her pals at Din Tai Fung for superlative Soup Dumplings (pictured above), delicate morsels filled with pork and crab, oozing an unctuous broth slick with pig skin gelatin goodness. Din Tai Fung might be a chain out of Taiwan, but they got Shanghai's famous dumplings down to a slurp-happy science.

After downing a couple of orders, along with a hearty dish of silky Tofu Stewed with Crabmeat; toothsome Jelly Fish; crunchy Cucumbers doused with tart vinegar, chunks of garlic and spicy chili peppers; and slices of lean Seared Pork, and it was time to move the party elsewhere.

In this case, the Shanghai outpost of Jean-George fit the bill. Glam to the max, this decadent spot was situated on the legendary Bund, with views that went on for miles, a sleek ocher Giallo Reale stone bar and a late-night two-for-one Champagne bottle special that kept our flutes filled to overflowing.

Not a bad way to be introduced to the city.

The next day didn't start with quite the same opulence, as I headed to the far edge of town to wind my way through Shanghai's dingy Fabric Market to haggle with tailors about stitching up a few pieces.

Then I ventured into Shanghai's tranquil Yu Gardens...

...and wove my way through the adjacent Old City bazaar before taking a breather at the charming Huxinting Teahouse (see below) for my first glimpse at a bona fide Chinese tea ceremony.

But, no sooner did I leave this bastion of late nineteenth century Shanghai, when I came upon a grand Oriental house devoted to another beloved beverage...

I quickly realized that I'd have to remove myself from Shanghai's typical tourist attractions in order to get a real sense of the city. So I turned to my iPod and the Louis Vuitton Soundwalk tour that I'd downloaded before I left the States.

That's right. Louis Vuitton. Don't snicker.

The luxury fashion and leather goods brand released a special collection of audio walking tours guided by leading Chinese actresses right before the Beijing Olympics. I was lucky enough to discover that they covered the three cities on my China itinerary. Today, I would hit "play," be greeted by Joan Chen, and follow in her footsteps through the leafy streets and winding back alleys of the city's French Concession district...

It was magical. She ushered me through main thoroughfares lined with chic boutiques, helped me gain entrance into a secret, private garden, and even pointed out the real life characters who are still the lifeblood of the neighborhood -- from an elderly bicycle repairman to a couple that dines each evening at a makeshift table in front of their apartment, come rain or shine -- finishing the tour at a very modern stairwell...

...where a special "insider's" passcode would unlock the mysterious entranceway into a stylish, contemporary restaurant-bar known as People 7.

As I listened to the last strains of Joan Chen's tales of the city, I ordered up a Gin and Tonic, smiling as I sipped the cool, bubbly drink, offering up a private toast to Shanghai.

Starbucks aside, I was more than enchanted.

And to think, I had only arrived 24 hours ago. I couldn't imagine what the next 24 might bring.

Back in Brooklyn

Got back after my 16-hour flight with a mean case of jet lag -- and just in time to vote in this historic election.

Will post Shanghai and Beijing details soon. And, until then, let me say that the airline food in economy class on Cathay Pacific was surprisingly OK. Not restaurant worthy, but definitely puts U.S. airlines to culinary shame.