Last night I had the delight of joining Sir and Lady M at New York's newest BBQ destination - Hill Country. One step in the door and my Yankee nostrils were overtaken by the intoxicating aroma of oak, burning long and low. Talk about perfume...
We waited on the edge of our bar stools sipping Lone Stars until our name was bellowed out, and three meal tickets where thrust into our hot little hands. In the tradition of Central Texas meat markets - not to mention the Lower East Side meat emporium Katz's Deli - Hill Country asks patrons to line up at the counter and order their vittles hand carved and to order, the countermen stamping your ticket as you go.
Naturally, we couldn't wait to earn a few stamps.
Wrapped in crackling brown butcher paper, we devoured smoky dry-rubbed Pork Ribs, tender, flavorful and absolutely ambrosial when slathered with some of the restaurant's house sauce. We groaned with pleasure as we indulged in a slab of the smoker's buttery soft Boneless Prime Rib and then groaned some more as we attacked slices of the restaurant's two Brisket variations, Moist and Lean. A plump link of Kreuz Sausage practically plunged us over the edge and straight into ecstasy.
Then again, can ecstasy ever be attained without the benefit of traditional BBQ sides?
Luckily, we didn't have to find out. Hill Country serves over a dozen. We abandoned ourselves to just four - with the White Shoepeg Corn Pudding clearly taking the lead in pure, unadulterated decadence.
Glancing at our meal tickets, we noticed that Hill Country also offers dessert. What a shame.
Anyone who crosses their threshold is sure to fill up on the restaurant's sublime 'cue and sides, leaving not a smidgen of room for Blue Bell Ice Cream or Peach Cobbler. Frankly, if I'd even had a bit of room left I would have gone back to gnaw on another glorious Rib.
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