
Like Sleeping Beauty, I awoke from my nap refreshed and ready to be kissed by the Handsome Prince. (Or was she kissed and then awoke refreshed? Whatever!) Sans Handsome Prince, I decided to make due with my pal Bonnie and our 8:30pm reservations at a BYOB spot at the edge of Bucktown called Schwa.
Now, not a lot had been written about this fairly new New American restaurant, but the few rave reviews I read, coupled with the fact that I have always uttered the word schwa when I yawn, induced me to put it on our dining itinerary. (BTW - Always hoped that I'd find out that schwa was Sanskrit for tired, giving me insight into one of my past lives. No such luck. Apparently it is English for an unstressed vowel. Well, perhaps I used to be an English teacher obsessed with phonetics...)
Knowing full well that the restaurant was BYOB, Bonnie and I took a quick detour to the wine bar/shop/eatery Bin 36 to pick up some Tempranillo before we hopped into a cab. The place was cavernous, yet warm. Modern, but comfortable. Hmmm...Perhaps we'd return here after dinner for an extra glass of vino before heading back to the hotel. Besides, the manager of the shop area was rather cute...
We hailed a cab. 20 minutes later we arrived on a rather desolate block of N. Ashland. Thankfully, the softly lit windows of the restaurant were welcoming. We walked in to find a tiny, comfy, sage-colored dining room - 28 seats in all - barely full on a Friday night at prime time. This didn't bode well. Then again, the open kitchen activity looked interesting - especially since it came with a view of a handful of attractive twenty-something males slicing, dicing, broiling and braising.
Yum!
We were suddenly greeted by an ebullient blonde with a gracious manner and ease. She uncorked our wine, and after a few sips, Bonnie and I felt a bit uncorked ourselves. And, then we perused our menus.
Oh, my. EVERYTHING sounded amazing. Just edgy enough to keep us on our toes, but not so wacky that we were put off. We couldn't decide what to order. Thankfully, it was a grand excuse to ask the restaurant's adorably scruffy chef/owner Michael Carlson over to the table for advice and insight. Why wasn't the restaurant more packed - especially considering that week's Time Out Chicago write-up? What were his favorite items on the menu? Could I have his number? (Okay, didn't ask the last one - but I was thinking it!)
Carlson expressed some frustation over the restaurant's lackluster success in keeping the front of the house full. Apparently, even with the BYOB draw, many folks would make reservations and then ditch at the last-minute. As for the menu - now his eyes lit up - he had several favorites. He smiled. Damn. What a great smile. A confident smile. This was a man who knew what he was doing in the kitchen. And so, with a little reluctance, we let him go back to his pots and pans.
And, soon the dining began. I started with a beautifully composed salad of crisp celery root, buttery Manchego cheese, sweet apple slices and brackish white anchovies. Bonnie indugled in a lighly fried, crumb-coated egg, which oozed bright yellow yolk, offsetting a generous spoonful of shiny black Illinois sturgeon caviar and a dollop of potato puree.
Wow.
My entree of housemade ravioli stuffed with ricotta, parmesan and quail eggs in brown butter with fried sage was a revelation - a trip to Bologna on a plate. Bonnie was equally enthralled with her dish of plump, sweet scallops, which came with a warm shot of apple cider to match their sugary goodness.
Wow again.
What's for dessert? There were only two, so there was no question or debate. They sounded incredible - a brownie stuffed with creme fraiche served with a pumpkin puree and pumpkin seeds, and baked banana with roasted pineapple and ginger custard. Unfortunately, after our series of brilliant, intensly flavored dishes, these desserts paled in comparision. In fact, they were downright bland. Heck, the ginger custard was downright salty.
Still, all in all, Schwa was an amazing find. And, if Carlson can find a pastry chef to live up to his cuisine, it could be an unstoppable haute cuisine hot spot.
We hailed a cab and still felt the need for something sweet. Or, even better - cheese. Or, even better than that - cheese and wine. We told the driver to take us to Bin 36. We were instantly greeted by the amiable shop manager, named Justin, who we quickly sussed out was fabulous - and fabulously gay. (And, I can't for the life of me understand how he's single. Cute, funny and has access to great wine. Yet, he was threatening to move to NYC to meet Mr. Right.)
Bonnie and I bonded with Justin instantly - and he made sure we were treated like princesses, as we sampled a selection of creamy, gooey, and sometimes pungent cheeses (one of Bin 36's cheese plates pictured above) and sipped a final glass of vino for the evening.
Gabbing, sipping and nibbling, time flew. Suddenly it was nearing midnight. We figured we'd better return to the hotel before our carriage turned back into a pumpkin. Wait - was that Sleeping Beauty or Cinderella? Well, no matter the fairy tale, I believe there was a Handsome Prince at the end. It was pretty evident that neither Bonnie or I would be ending up with a Handsome Prince tonight. A hug from Justin and turn-down service at the Monaco would have to do. Besides, I was tired and beginning to yawn...schwa...
See. I told you!