VittlesVamp

Be All You Can BYOB

Made it to one of Philly's new BYOBs tonight: Branzino, located in the Rittenhouse Square district. Unlike most of the city's BYOB establishments, which offer only the most rudimentary of settings, the Albanian family that started this Italian trattoria decided to cover the walls with bright, intricate murals and add twinkling, crystal chandeliers to give the room an elegant feel.

After my incredibly mind-numbing, all-day business seminar in a poorly lit conference room, elegant was an uplifting necessity. And, the option of bringing my own bottle, an uplifting notion for my pocketbook. (Then again, my company would've reimbursed me for a bottle of Opus One, had I been so inclined - Yes?...Probably, not so much...Better I hit the State Store and get a decent bottle of Sauvignon Blanc in route.)

Settling into the attractive room my German waiter from Stuttgart came over and let me know about the specials.

Wait: A German waiter in an Italian restaurant run by Albanians? I could be in deep trouble.

Thankfully, my worries were for naught. My first shared course of fresh Buffalo Mozzarella with Roasted Sweet Red Peppers was lovely and the Farfalle with Crabmeat and Shrimp in a Tomato Cream Sauce was absolutely luscious. The pasta was al dente and the shrimp were plump and flavorful. And, most difficult to attain - the creamy, rosy sauce didn't overwhelm the dish and I could even taste the flakes of sweet crabmeat.

Belissima.

And, the piece de la resistance: the whole Branzino, deboned tableside, served with a lemon, butter, caper sauce.

Bravo!

So, for tonight, I will bask in the glow of Branzino. I'll take all the glow I can get. For tomorrow, I return to the bad lighting, bad coffee and badly overwrought phrases like "strategic positioning" at Day 2 of my business seminar.

Oh, please let there be a bar car on my Amtrak train back to New York!

Off To The City of Brotherly Love

Off on another business trip - this time to Philadelphia. Happen to actually like the city, despite W.C. Fields unfavorable review: "I once spent a year in Philadelphia, I think it was on a Sunday."

Mind you, it is only in the past five or six years that Philly has seen a sharp turnaround into a more vibrant urban community - with a vibrant, urban restaurant scene.

Not sure if I'll have any time to take advantage of it, but if I do, you can expect to hear about it. Rest assured, however, that my tastes run less towards the Philly holy grail of cheesesteaks (pictured above) and more to the BYOB gourmet restaurant options. Then again, I bet the folks at Pat's and Geno's would let me bring my own bottle of Cotes-du-Rhone...

Flush With Excitement

How could I have been anything but "flush with excitement" this past Sunday, anxious with anticipation about a daytrip to the wilds of Flushing, Queens with my Indi-anna Jones pal Kristin? You may recall that Kristin was my ready and able partner-in-crime during a foodie expedition to Brighton Beach a while back.

Waiting to meet her on the #7 platform at Queens Plaza, I had a feeling that Kristin and I would do equally well in what was purported to be NYC's most authentic Chinatown.

Always trust your feelings.

Kristin came fully prepped with loads of Internet research and recommendations. And, as an added bonus, she also added some extra items to our quest: thin, cotton, drawstring pants and a switchblade - both of which could come in handy during an upcoming archaeological business trip to the blistering hot and mortally dangerous country of Uzbekistan. (And, I thought my recent business trip to San Francisco was cool!)

Getting off the train, it seemed like we already had landed in another continent - Asia to be exact. Intrepid round-eyes, we - we bolstered our Food Slut inclinations and headed straight to a Food Court on 36-58 Main Street. Winding our way through the two floors of stalls we decided to heed an Internet poster's advice and order up some mixed dumplings from C's Hk Tasty Food. It was difficult figuring out the ordering system, but happily another diner was able to help us translate. (What can I say? Both my Cantonese and Mandarin are rusty. My Yiddish on the other hand!)

The dumplings were delicate and bursting with tiny sweet shrimp and rich pork meat. And, yet, we couldn't help bemoan the fact that we hadn't ordered up the Fried Shrimp Wontons. We watched the cook deftly fry up a couple of batches and were mesmerized. But, no. We resisted and headed towards the Flushing Mall Food Court for more.

A big mistake.

Attempting to down a flavorless overcooked Turnip Bun and another one stuffed with overly salty beef and chilis, we quickly determined that we shouldn't waste the calories or the room in our stomachs.

Our next destination: the highly praised Sichuan restaurant Spicy & Tasty. We had both been dreaming of their tongue-tingling, slow-burning DanDan Noodles and the chef's Tea-Smoked Duck was also tops on our lists. We ordered both and threw in an order of Sauteed Pea Shoot Greens and Rice Nuts in Rice Wine for good measure.

What a disappointment. The greens were bright, fresh and lovely. The DanDan and the Tea Smoked Duck on the other hand, were big Don'tDon'ts. The noodles were insipid and had ABSOLUTELY no heat, until we demanded they add some, to which they simply dumped a little atop. The duck was moist, but nothing special. And, as for the novelty dish of the Rice Nuts, it was more of a sweet broth accompanied by large white and hot pink rice puffs. Kristin was kinda taken by it, but it was a big "pass" for me.

We were despondent. Where to next? Did we really have room for much more food anyway? We decided to pay a visit to the A & N food market for supplies - Chrysanthemum Tea for me and loads of Asian condiments and such for Kristin - and then make our next food selection.

At the checkout counter we knew: Fried Shrimp Wontons.

Checking a few clothing stores for Kristin's elusive pants (which remained elusive) and completely forgetting about her need to pick up weaponry, we boogied on back to our original stop, C's Hk. In addition to our order of crispy wontons, we also indulged in another order of dumplings - this time sitting on top of an order of eggy thin lo mein noodles.

It was all yummy to say the least. We exited and headed towards the #7 to return home, full and finally sated - and then we spotted the Sago Tea House. We really could use a bit of caffeine to finish off the day...And, a sweet wouldn't be a bad idea either...

We compromised and picked up iced coffees to go. Mine was shaken with a bit of rich, creamy coconut milk and Kristin had peppermint added to hers...It was a sweet ride back to civilization.

Talkin' Trash

I'm home now - in New York, safe 'n sound. Actually, I made sure to jet back from SF on the Friday night "red-eye," in order to make it back in time for my friend Maureen's White Trash Party. And, even in my post-flight, Ambien-riddled state, I could appreciate the dining dichotomy that 24-hours wrought:

Friday -

* Nibbling at San Francisco's lauded dim sum haunt Yank Sing. Overall, I must say that I've had dim sum that was just as good - if not better - in Philadelphia's Chinatown (of all places!), but I was quite enchanted with their Lobster Dumplings, hand-fashioned to resemble the clawed-critters, filled with fresh lobster meat and Chinese broccoli, topped with tobiko roe.

* Sinking into rich "Corinthian" leather chairs in the Four Season's Seasons Bar for a friendly business meeting over a refreshing conconction called a Mulligan - composed of iced tea, lemonade, citrus vodka and a float of Grand Marnier.

* A couple of sundry tapas at Piperade Chef Gerald Hirigoyen's new casual spot Bocadillos. (Liked the Fried Sardines, but was underwhelmed by the overwhelmingly odd Sushi Roll Stuffed with Foie Gras and Mango, surrounded by Serrano Ham and drizzled with aged Balsamic Vinegar.)

*Reveling in a sweet, refreshingly minty, cocktail at a crowded private party hosted in the former home of Diego Rivera and Frida Kaihlo - Sipping the potent drink slowly, standing on the sizeable outdoor landing, in the shadow of the Transamerica Building.

Saturday -

* Picking up WisPride Cheese Spread and Boursin (figured this was an upscale choice in the trash milieu), along with Ritz Crackers (how ritzy can you get?), for my contribution to the fete. Tried to locate spray cheese in a can, but was informed by two of my local supermarkets that they don't carry it. (In comparison they did offer at least 6 types of goat cheese!)

* Tasting my first White Castle Hamburger at the party. Eating a second just to reassure myself that "it is that bad." It is.

* Enjoying a ladleful of Frito pie. The corn chips did, in fact, stay miraculously crunchy - even under the weight and mush of the chili.

* Throwing back a glass of Prosecco. (C'mon - I'm the VittlesVamp, after all! Did you expect me to actually drink one of those PBR's in the cooler?)

The BOMB

Sorry I didn't get a chance to post yesterday, but as I suspected, I was caught in a conference room meeting with stale coffee and sandwiches. Mind you, I was completely wrong about the vittles being of the foul, pre-wrapped variety. Instead, hearty Vietnamese Bahn Mi sandwiches were on-hand - deliciously vinegary tart with sweet roasted, rich pork and an array of crunchy vegetables. Yum!

And, the night before, I did land in enough time to meander around the Mission District before joining a colleague at Luna Park (dining room pictured above). My great foodie find pre-dinner: the Bombay Ice Cream Parlor on Valencia between 16th & 17th. It's the BOMB. A humble establishment, with an adjacent Indian clothing store in full view of the ice cream bar, its wares are undeniably enticing. Fig ice cream. Rose. Saffron. And my pick - Cardamom-Rose.

A small cone was the perfect amuse bouche before Luna Park's whimsical riff on California cuisine. The appetizers were definitely the highlights of the meal: Warm Goat Cheese Fondue with Grilled Bread and Sliced Apples and Marinated Hawaiian Tuna "Poke" with Fried Wonton Chips. The latter dish was a massive "meatball" of tuna tartare in an Asian vinaigrette with wonton crisps for dipping. Addictive stuff.

Clearly I wasn't alone in my feelings. The dish was gone right quick and it seemed that other tables in the boisterous room were gobbling up the chow as well...If the service had been - well, a little more service-oriented - I would have to say it would be worth a repeat visit. But under the circumstances, "Poke" or no, I think the big "get" in the Mission district is that Indian ice cream. Did I mention that it's the BOMB?

Must run. But, promise more details soon.

Back to the Bay

Yup - heading back to the Left Coast later today Traveling for business, but I'll try to throw in a little foodie pleasure into the mix, so I have something to report on over the next two days...If you don't hear from me, assume I'm caught in a boardroom meeting with nasty pre-wrapped sandwiches and stale coffee.

Family Heirlooms

I'm one hot tomato. And, it takes one to know one.

That's why I always look forward to heirloom tomato season at my local farmer's market. Apparently, the same goes for Los Angelenos. In fact, today's Los Angeles Times offers up a "who's who" of heirlooms:

Here are some of the more common varieties:

Black Krim: Sometimes called "Black Crimson" or "Black Crim," this extremely flavorful tomato hails from the Black Sea area once called Krim now referred to as Crimea. A dark red tomato with shoulders so dark green they appear black.

Brandywine: Probably the most popular of the heirlooms. There are several strains of Brandywine, from deep red to yellow. The original is a large, pinkish tomato with an amazingly deep flavor.

Cherokee Purple: Gary Ibsen perfectly describes the color of this tomato as "dusky rose." It is a relatively low-acid tomato with a slightly sweet, meaty flavor.

Costoluto Genovese: Dark crimson, with pronounced lobes and crevices, this is a deeply flavored, tart Italian heirloom treasured for eating and cooking.

Dona: This round, glossy red tomato looks like a generic slicer (it was bred as a commercial tomato in France), but there is no mistaking the nearly perfect sweet-tart flavor balance.

Earl of Edgecomb: A golden orange tomato, the Earl is firm and meaty with a rich flavor.

Green Zebra: This striped variety can be delicious or crunchy and flavorless. Choose ones with a slight give and a dark, creamy green background.

Marvel Striped: Originally from Oaxaca, this is a giant, orange tomato with red stripes and a sweet, fruity flavor.

Yellow Ruffle: Is it a tomato? Is it a bell pepper? It's hard to tell at first glance. The flavor is mild and sweet.

Names-shmames. Slice 'em up, toss a little sea salt on top and you have a meal fit for royalty. Think I'll try to find a couple of these ugly babies this weekend and wear my crown at dinnertime!

Otto - Not Just For Pizza Anymore

Almost hate to share this info for fear that there will be a stampede over to Mario Batali's Otto. (Sidbar: Notice the funfilled buffalo-theme that's emerging between yesterday and today's postings?) Well, now that I've started to share, guess I've gotta go all the way:

Otto has just expanded it's menu to include a range of pastas, each with a $9 pricetag.

Fab, ain't it?

Mind you, the menu doesn't include ritzy, Babbo-worthy pastas like Mario's Spaghetti with Black Truffles. But, how can you argue with a plate of homey Spaghetti Carbonara with the classic combo of egg, cream, parmesan and pancetta? For under $10?

No arguments from me. And, if Carbonara doesn't float your boat, there are about seven other pastas to choose from.

And, no, they haven't dropped the pizzas from the menu - nor the antipasti. The wine list is as massive as ever. There's just more to love - and mangia now!

Dinner Party Replay - And Cherries on Top of Sundaes

No, the above photo is not of my dinner guests. These, my friends, are water buffalo. And, why did I feel it important to share a photo of these beasties? Cause their milk makes the most refined, delicate, creamy mozzarella on the planet.

This was the cheese that took centerstage during the first course of last Friday night's foodie fete. Slices of the pure white, rich, velvety mozzarella was accompanied by a salad of sweet cherry tomatoes, glistening in a champagne vinaigrette, topped with julienned fresh basil.

It doesn't get much better than that.

Simple, robust flavors seemed best to follow. And, so they did.

With two vegetarians at the table I decided that a hearty pasta dish was in order. Tuscan-style Ziti with Cauliflower was my pick - with florets of cauliflower sauteed in olive oil till golden, along with minced red onion, sliced garlic, hot chili flakes and a good deal of fresh mint. Had one of the guests liberally grate Pecorino atop (with one of my all-time favorite kitchen gadgets - the Microplane Grater) and it was ready for mass consumption.

For the meat-eaters among us, I took a special trip to Los Paisanos Meat Market on Smith Street to procure some of their housemade sausages. Digging into the roasted Lamb, Garlic, Red Wine and Herb sausage I didn't regret the trip one bit. And, taking a bite next of the Chicken, Provolone and Peppers variety, I vowed to purchase more of these plump links right quick!

Sauteed up some beautiful, bright green asparagus stalks with some Balsamic vinegar and white wine for a little crisp, veggie accompaniment.

We were stuffed. Even my veggie friends - Celeste and Melissa - seemed completely contented.

And yet, there was more...Of course!

In order to switch gears into dessert mode - which as previously established on this site, was Basque Cornmeal Cake with Hot Strawberry Compote and Ricotta Sorbet - I proffered a "palate-cleansing" course. No mint sorbet here. Instead, I laid out a plate of dried, glazed orange and canteloupe slices from my favorite Arabic market on Atlantic Avenue. The bitter versus sweet play between the orange rind, orange pulp and honey-sugar canteloupe was lovely - and prepped our palates for the finale.

The cake was as glorious as expected - and the dessert wine didn't hurt the experience either.

Plus, as an added treat, my friend David read aloud a little something he'd found on the seat next to him riding into Brooklyn on the subway: a wonderfully whimsical print-out from the "Toys in Babeland" Web site. I won't share the topic specifics, but needless to say it was educational. What a perfect way to round out the evening! Informational smut is always considered the cherry on the sundae at my parties. Isn't the same for every good hostess?

Maybe next time David comes over, a sundae with a cherry on top would be in order. I wonder if I can find a way to make it vibrate?

That Scent...

I just took the cake for tonight's dinner party out of the oven - a Basque Cornmeal Cake, fragrant with sweet corn, sugar, lemon zest and vanilla.

It's intoxicating.

Plan on serving it tonight with the Ricotta Sorbet I mentioned yesterday and then serve a Strawberry Compote aside:

2 pints strawberries - hulled and sliced
3 TBSP OJ
2 TBSP Triple Sec or Cointreau
2 Tsp Sugar
1 Tsp Butter

Mix sliced berries and sugar. Set aside. Heat butter in a large saute pan. Add berries. Once slightly warmed through add OJ and liquor. Cook for 2 - minutes until hot.

Needless to say, even after typing that recipe, the scent of the cake is tickling my nose - beckoning me to cut a slice right this second.

I MUST RESIST.

Off to the gym I must go! (This way I can justify two slices tonight.)