VittlesVamp

A Tale of Two Stuffings

This past Saturday I hosted a Thanksgiving turkey dinner with all the trimmings for a group of my closest friends. No, I didn't lose my calender. (Or my mind, for that matter.) I just don't understand why we relegate this fabulous bird and accompaniments to one, lone day in November. And, so I planned a special T-day dinner in March.

That said, you may recall from an earlier posting that Gary - owner of Oriental Pastry & Grocery, a gourmet Middle Eastern emporium on Atlantic Avenue - had invited me to sample his Arabic version of stuffing on the same day as my Thankgiving dinner. Goodness knows, no matter how much I should've been in the kitchen making my own stuffing, I couldn't resist.

As soon as I walked in the door and reminded Gary of his promise, his eyes lit up and he ushered me into the back kitchen to meet his brother Ennis - and the whole lamb he was prepping.

Just as delighted to talk food as his brother, Ennis and I swapped stuffing recipes as he sewed up the cavity of the lamb for the rice mixture that was just coming off the stove. Lifting the enormous lid off of the gargantuan pot, the room was soon filled with the aroma of cardamom, nutmeg and cinnamon. Ennis quickly added mint green peas, toasty almond slivers and chopped lamb meat.

Of course, it wasn't a stuffing by your typical American standards (where are the bread croutons?), but one bite and I was hooked. Gary scooped up a portion into a bowl so I could indulge (breakfast!) while I purchased a few extra ingredients for my dinner - and then insisted on filling a large container with the rice mixture to share with my guests.

Once home, with Middle Eastern stuffing in hand, I set to work to finish off the rest of the feast.

First I whipped up a welcoming pitcher of a drink that I christened The Brooklyn Heights, as it was inspired by the fruit-named streets in the area - Cranberry, Orange and Pineapple. Besides those same-said fruit juices, it also featured mulling spices, Angostura bitters and lime juice. (Exact measurements on request.) Like Thanksgiving in a glass, it was lovely over ice with gin, vodka, rum, apple jack - or even seltzer.

Then came the vittles:

*Herb Roasted Turkey
(My secret: frozen herbed butter bark under the skin before cooking - Take a softened stick of butter and mix with onion powder, garlic powder, sage, rosemary and thyme. Place butter in the center of a large piece of Saran Wrap, curling the sides of the wrap and flattening the butter between the sheets until it is paper thin. Freeze for at least 4 hours. Break off pieces of the frozen butter bark and place strategically under the skin of the turkey before roasting.)

*Porcini Mushroom Gravy

*Bread, Currant and Pine Nut Stuffing

*Sugar Snap Peas with Lemon-Shallot Butter

*Mashed Potatoes with Frizzled Leeks

*Cranberry and Pear Compote

*Middle Eastern Rice Stuffing

Have to admit that I didn't have high hopes for my guests "making all gone," since three were ladies (two of whom need to make sure they are able to fit into wedding gowns in a few months) and, in fact, my friend Jennifer had admitted to not feeling too well and called to warn me that she "might not eat a lot."

Well, my concern was for naught. I have only enough leftovers for one or two meals, max. But, happily, I did have enough of my bread stuffing to drop off a container of it to Gary on Atlantic Avenue. He wasn't there when I dropped it by yesterday, but I look forward to his eventual review...

And, if you're wondering about the photo above, neither stuffing is mine. Considering the title of the posting, the image was too good to pass up.

*Note: Yes, there was dessert. It was so wonderful (if I do say so myself) that I feel it is worthy of its very own posting later this week.

The List

Recently had lunch with another food blogger and - no surprise - we got to talking about favorite restaurants. I couldn't help but be jealous when he went on about superlative meals in Spain's palaces of haute cuisine.

We did, however, share one out-of-town favorite: Philadelphia's Vetri - In my humble, albeit food-obsessed opinion, the best restaurant I've ever been to.

From Chef Marc Vetri's Guinea Hen Breast Stuffed with Foie Gras and Proscuitto served with Mushrooms to his palate cleansing course of Rosemary Sorbet with Dark Chocolate and Warm Olive Oil, his food is all at once playful and yet seeped in tradition.

The dining room only seats 38 and is a warm, burnished yellow. The staff is inviting and knowledgeable. And the atmosphere is completely relaxed and soothing. In fact, for a top-flight, award-winning, four-star (or four-bell as it were) restaurant, Vetri is remarkably casual. Patrons are just as often seen wearing jeans as suits.

And, recounting my recent dinner visit - from complimentary glass of Prosecco to Mango Gnocchi - it got me to thinking about the many expensive and lauded restaurants here in NYC which I have yet to visit.

First on the list is Babbo. I haven't met a soul that has crossed through its threshold that had a bad thing to say about the jewel in Mario Batali's crown. And, besides the fact that I'm partial to Italian, I've actually tried a number of Batali's recipes and been impressed that they've been able to translate (with a little tweaking) into the home kitchen.

Second, I'd have to say is Town. My friend Joy had a dinner there that I think she's still swooning over.

Coming in third is Gramercy Tavern. One note here: I did have an appetizer and drink at the bar a while back. The bartender was a dream and the food was sublime. All of the above not surprising with a restaurant from Danny Meyers.

Late addition: Why is it that I always forget about Veritas? Could it be that with the exception of reviews, you just don't see the restaurant in the press very much? Well, from what I understand, that simply means that Chef Scott Bryan is able to turn his complete attention to the kitchen. And, if the menu wasn't enough to place it firmly on the list, then the wine list most certainly would. It garners a not-too-shabby number four - although that wine list is making me think it just might have to considered a tie contender for the number three spot.

Of course there are other hot spots on my list, ranging from Nobu to the newly opened Spice Market, but thought it was important to put "The List" out there. You never know who might want to spoil me with a luxurious dinner...

Food Shopping Among Hookahs

No, my spelling isn't off. I mean hookahs not hookers. (Although, I have nothing against a working girl gourmand.)

I often find myself food shopping in the midst of several of these ornate Middle Eastern smoking devices when I venture to Atlantic Avenue in my home-borough of Brooklyn. The blocks between Court and Henry Streets are bursting at the seams with incredible Middle Eastern stores that sell everything from heady spices like cardamom seeds and star anise to barrels and barrels of imported olives, not to mention housemade baba ganoush and platters of honey-sweet Arabic pastries.

One of the longtime faves on the strip is Sahadi's (pictured above). According to the Zagat Guide:

This Atlantic Avenue Middle Eastern "landmark" is worth the trip for "bargain prices" on a "mind-boggling variety" of "great stuff", including bulk nuts, dried fruits, olives, coffee, grains, beans, spices, and some of "the best hummus" around; it's "too bad" it's not open Sundays and is "jam-packed" on Saturdays, but it's a "treasure" and some would go just to chat with "good-natured" owner Charlie Sahadi.

They are quite right about it being "jam-packed" on Saturdays with Brooklyn Heights, Boerum Hill and Cobble Hill residents stocking up for the week. Many locals swear by the place, no matter the crowds.

I, however, prefer shopping at the smaller and less glam Oriental Pastry & Grocery Company directly across the street. Why? It's certainly not because they have the breadth of Sahadi's selection. It's way too small for that. But, the owner Gary is absolutely passionate about food. He's unequivocally delighted to get knee-deep into a discussion about the virtues of the four different dried apricots he stocks, or compare the textural differences between Chinese and Portugese pine nuts.

The store's exotic dried fruit section is beyond compare. Their olive and pickle selection is ample. They carry a dizzying array of canned goods from all over the Mideast. Every employee seems on the edge of their seat to talk about the foodstuff that cram the tiny store - even sharing a recipe or two, if you seem an ardent-enough admirer of the wares. And, if you arrive at the right time, when they are putting together a catered event, they might even share a taste of what's being made in the kitchen.

I've been promised a sample of Gary's Rice Stuffing with peas, cardamom, cloves and various other savory ingredients, if I'm able to stop by before 12noon on Saturday. Needless to say, I'll be there.

More Fame...

This time from the land of "early bird specials" and "hanging chads": The St. Petersburg Times.

Think I'll start attracting a snow bird audience?

Nuts About A New Foodie Trend

Although I will fully admit to paying a great deal of heed to the Atkins low-carb craze and starch-free dieting, it's all getting a bit tired as a topic. Wouldn't you agree? Besides, according to today's New York Post:

The Atkins Diet and other weight-loss plans that limit carbohydrates can turn you into a sourpuss, a new study shows.

Scientists found carbohydrates help boost the production of serotonin which controls emotions and a shortage can lead to mood swings and depression.

So, with all of NYC still enthralled with the fad, I decided to turn to the West Coast for a change of pace. And happily, food writer Regina Schrambling came through in the Los Angeles Times:

...A funny thing happened while I was chopping walnuts: Pistachios went mainstream.

These days they almost seem like the white truffle oil of the nut world: once an extravagance, now inescapable. In the last few weeks alone, I've had them in restaurants as a filling in ravioli, a crust on seared duck breast and lamb and an essential element of several salads; they even turn up in everything from soup to mole. And that's not even counting all the ways they surface in desserts.

But every bite makes me realize there's a big difference between truffle oil and pistachios. The little green kernels are the real deal. They look and taste exotic, and those attributes come naturally.

They will always have the power to dazzle, whether simply set out with cheese and wine or baked into some elaborate torte, but these days they're not just accessible but affordable. They're even sold shelled.

Must admit that I was digging into some shelled pistachios last night. And, at a recent dinner party, I topped steamed asparagus not only with a sweet, mustardy Sauternes Vinaigrette and chopped egg - but a crunchy sprinkling of chopped pistachios too.

And, her recipe for Pennette with Pistachios and Gorgonzola is ample inspiration to once again feature these nutty delights at my dining table:

Time: 25 minutes

Servings: 8

Coarse sea salt

3/4pound pennette pasta

1 1/2tablespoons unsalted butter

2 leeks, white part only, washed well and very thinly sliced

3/4cup heavy cream

6 ounces Gorgonzola, cut into pieces

1/2 cup shelled salted pistachios, coarsely chopped

Freshly ground white pepper

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Cook the pennette according to the package directions until al dente.

2. While the pasta cooks, melt the butter in a large deep skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and a dash of sea salt and cook, stirring, until very soft, about 4 minutes. Add the cream and heat to a simmer.

3. Drain the cooked pasta well in a colander and immediately turn it out into the skillet with the leek mixture. Add the Gorgonzola and toss until coated. Add the pistachios and salt and pepper to taste. Continue stirring until well mixed. Serve at once, with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, if desired.

I really think Regina might have hit upon something here. And, considering she's based in NYC, where we're getting pummeled with Atkins PR, I wouldn't be surprised if she was simply delighted to write about a food trend that didn't involve debate about carbs.

Frankly, I couldn't be more delighted too.

Meatballs and the Meaning of Life

Grabbing a quick lunch in Philly a few weeks ago at Stephen Starr's new Italian spot Angelina, I had a revelation: the meatball is a culinary standard meant to be put on a pedestal rather than relegated to an "unlimited" bowl of overcooked spaghetti at an Olive Garden or your neighborhood pizza joint. (And, if you Google the word "meatballs" you are most certainly encouraged to think otherwise.)

Sitting at the restaurant's sleek bar I struck up a conversation with the manager and just asked him to order me whatever dish on the menu he thought would "blow me a way." Never in a million years did I imagine it would be a humble plate of meatballs - albeit, on top of a mound of creamy polenta. The meat was full of flavor and had a complex character that was perfectly complimented by the soft, warm and cheesy cornmeal.

I couldn't wait to try to make it at home. The Oscars and my neighbors (with their sizable TV and warm hospitality) gave me the perfect excuse.

My meatball method:

In a large bowl, plunk in ground beef, ground pork and sweet sausage meat with eggs, oregano, minced garlic and shallots, bread crumbs and milk (specific measurements upon request).

Then comes my favorite part - the squishing. There is something so incredibly primal about mixing and squishing meatball mixture in your (well-washed) hands. Total meatball therapy!

Then, there's the textural pleasure of rolling small rounds of the mixture between your palms to create little globes for the frying.

After frying (see photo above), in a separate large pot I saute several garlic cloves which have been sliced thin, add two cans of whole San Marzano tomatoes (the brand doesn't matter - but make sure that they are real San Marzanos on the label - not San Marzano-style) and one can of crushed tomatoes. Then I crush the whole tomatoes in the pot. Bubbling away over medium heat, I add salt, a bit of dried thyme, tomato paste, milk and a few dashes of good Balsamic vinegar. As a last glossy touch, I throw in a bit of cold butter for good measure.

Brown and crisp on the outside, I add the meatballs and then cook over medium flame for another 30 minutes.

Bellisimo!

Secret Doors & Blue Gnocchi

I'm always delighted when I'm introduced to a New York restaurant that I've never heard about. But, it went one step further on Friday night, when my friend Maureen invited me to join her and a certain cute single gentleman - her 2-month old nephew - along with her sister and brother-in-law for dinner.

The place? An UES Italian haunt called Giorgio's. Now, you'll notice that there isn't a hyperlink for the name of the restaurant. That's because there isn't one to be had. In fact, this place doesn't even have a sign out front or an inviting window into its dining room.

Yes, a truly secret restaurant that has been thriving as such for years.

The place was tiny, unadorned and packed. The crowd slightly older than downtown, but the vibe was just as bubbly. Maureen was a regular so the service was top-flight, but I didn't notice less attention being paid to any other table. (Then again, I really only had eyes for the adorable baby across from me, so I wasn't as astute as I might have been.)

As for the food, it was a mixed bag. The Caesar Salad was overly garlicky, but featured an ample portion of salty anchovy bits. The first course portion of Beef Carpaccio was first-rate. And, the best appetizer was a special Eggplant Rollatine Stuffed with Goat Cheese in a bright, fresh Tomato Sauce, oozing warm rich cheese into the tomato goodness.

We split a round of entrees - For protein, we shared a chicken dish called Pollo a la Joanne with mushrooms, fontina and proscuitto that was overly salty and uninspired. On the other hand, the special of four meaty lambchops were perfectly cooked and tender - the accompaniment of rosemary potatoes seemed merely a frivolous garnish next to these simple, toothsome delights.

But, the real treat was the pasta. Maureen's sister, who had insisted that she visit Giorgio's while she was in from Austin, had raved about the chef's gnocchi and rightfully so. A bowl of about 10 plump blue/brown dumplings arrived at our table bathed in a creamy gorgonzola sauce. At first I couldn't quite place their unusual texture and color - Was it from mushrooms? Questioning the waiter, we were delighted to learn that the gnocchi had been specially prepared with blue potatoes tonight. Needless to say, there was a moment of panic when it seemed that only one was left in the bowl after a few short - and tasty - minutes. I gracefully bowed out to the out-of-town guests.

Do I think that the place is worth going out of your way for? Not really. But, I will say this - next time I find myself on the Upper East Side, it wouldn't take much arm twisting to get me to Giorgio's. And, this time, I think I'll order a bowl of the chef's amazing gnocchi all for myself.

BTW - If you do want to visit, the restaurant is on East 84th Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues on the South side of the street, closer to 1st. The entrance is all cherry wood. And, be forewarned - It's cash only.