The West Village is filled with an overabundance of quaint bistros and cafes. Some are very good. Some aren't.
But, there is still something purely magical in the discovery of an authentic gustatory jewel box in this charming neighborhood. Last night, I was lucky enough to enter such a place - small, unassuming and utterly enchanting: Le Gigot.
Located at 18 Cornelia Street, the restaurant shares the block with some venerable Village dining establishments, including Pearl Oyster Bar, Home and Po. (Tough competition to say the least.) Le Gigot has been on the block for eight years now, but except for a flurry of press when it opened its doors to lines of Francophiles, there hasn't been much buzz about the place. So little, in fact, that when I was in the area, I usually bypassed the spot in favor of one of its gourmet neighbors.
That all changed last night.
I promised to take my friend Maureen out for a birthday dinner and asked her to indicate her "hankering" du jour. Her selection: French fare - and somewhere neither of us had been before. And, so a reservation at Le Gigot was born...
Walking into the adorable, Provencal yellow bistro that evening I was greeted by the delightful sight of a tiny, 35-seat room lined with banquettes, white linen-set tables and a wall of honeycomb-inspired mirror. The room was lit in low golden hues and a subtle smell of garlic hung in the air. I felt like I had found the perfect, hidden cafe - in Paris.
Sipping a glass of crisp Pinot Blanc, Mo and I reviewed the dinner options. We finally decided to split two appetizers and an entree. The waiter approved of our choices and made the recommendation that he bring each dish out separately, if that would be okay. It was.
After a bout with bad service during a recent restaurant excursion, I was incredibly appreciative of the restaurant's gracious service - friendly, knowledgeable and discreet.
Several moments later a large platter of charcuterie appeared in the center of the table. The waiter explained that all of it had been prepared in-house and walked away with a knowing smile on his face. One bite of the Chicken Liver Pate and I had that same smile on mine. It was delectable. The Duck Rillette, Country Pate and sausages were equally amazing. The surrounding accompaniments of cornichon, slivers of cooked carrot and yellow beets, caper berries and pearl onions put it all over the edge. Maureen and I didn't even touch the bread that came with - It might have muddled the purity of the flavors.
Next came an appetizer special of Crabcake. I am often disappointed in this dish. In careless hands it usually ends up tasting like Breadcrumbcake. There are no careless hands in Le Gigot's kitchen. It was heaven.
And, alongside there was mesclun. Who cares about a few paltry greens, you ask? Honey, you haven't tried these greens! The vinaigrette drizzled atop was breathtaking. It was so good, it was driving me crazy. Where did that hit of sweetness come from? What vinegar did the chef use? I had to know!
I called over the waiter, who gladly shared the chef's secret: He boils dried figs in balsamic vinegar, reducing the liquid and then strains out the figs. All that's added is olive oil and a touch of lemon juice.
Of course, I'm now planning to try it at home. And, unlike the folks at Le Gigot, I vow to find a use for the balsamic-poached figs. (Perhaps with pork loin or duck?)
Mo and I were on pins and needles at this point. Was it possible they could keep the food coming at this level? Of course not.
They topped it.
The main dish we shared was Lamb Shank - the richest, most vibrant lamb shank I've ever consumed. The sauce was a deep brown puddle infused with meaty stock and a glossing of anise-flavored Pernod. Brilliant. Beneath the meat was a melange of crisp, colorful vegetables, including sugar snap peas and cauliflower. But, the crowning glory side dish was the slices of potato cooked in duck fat. Certainly not dietetic - but gorgeous all the same.
We were over the moon. And, once you're caught between the moon and New York City, you have no choice: but to order dessert.
The Apple Tart Tartine and Brioche Pudding with Pear, Banana and Peach were the only nightcaps we needed...
I must admit, I'm a little nervous about posting this review - and a bit thankful that my site is still sort of under-the-radar. Why? Cause, goodness knows, I want to be able to get a table at Le Gigot again - very, very soon.
Le Gigot has been excellent since at least my last time there in the late 90's. Thanks for the reminder to return.
Posted by: Lock | March 25, 2004 at 01:17 PM