VittlesVamp

"Eating Around" Watch

Okay, think that there is a bit of a swinging pendulum going on with the topics at the center of the Wall Street Journal's "Eating Around" column. Last week, they pulled an everything old is new again angle by focusing on deviled eggs. This week the go to the other extreme by focusing on a fairly obscure veggie:

Don't feel too bad if you can't identify kohlrabi -- some top chefs have never even heard of the vegetable. To figure out kohlrabi's purpose in life, chef Cornelius Gallagher of Oceana spent an entire afternoon roasting, frying, pureeing, pickling and steaming it. (Pureeing won; roasting was a bust.) The bulb-shaped vegetable, a native of northern Europe, is still hard to find in supermarkets.

So, lets just wait and see what next Thursday brings. I say that they go back to the other end of the spectrum. Peanut butter anyone?

Scared Straight - Or at least Clean

Darn if that day-glo pink sponge and the headline "Squeaky Clean? Not Even Close" on the cover of the Times' Dining In, Dining Out section grab my attention. Talk about scare tactics:

When mad cow disease was discovered in Washington State recently, it made headlines for days and brought action from the federal government. Coupled with a number of E. coli scares, it caused some Americans to swear off hamburger.

But most people don't seem to worry about what experts say is a petri dish for food-borne illness: the home kitchen.

"Everybody is so acutely aware of mad cow disease," said Janet Anderson, a clinical associate professor of nutrition and food sciences at Utah State University, "but people aren't aware of the fact that they don't even wash their hands when they enter their kitchens, which is a much greater risk."

Professor Anderson filmed more than 100 people preparing dinner and found that only two did not cross-contaminate raw meat with fresh vegetables.

It is not only people's hands, though. Dish towels, sinks, refrigerator door handles and warm, moist, crevice-filled sponges are also breeding grounds for bacteria.

I wonder how many NYT readers immediately put down their papers and picked up their 409 and started getting to work on their kitchen counters.

Needless to say, I agree with the article's effusive argument about cleanliness in the kitchen. I myself am a bit of a neat freak in mine. I'm always cleaning knives, cutting boards and dishes as I'm in the midst of prepping a meal. And, I wash my hands constantly.

Two tips on how to keep you and your kitchen spic-n-span:

1. Spend the extra money and buy a luxurious smelling hand soap by the sink. Throw some good lotion in for an extra incentive for hand-washing. Personally, I'm now addicted to my Cucina-brand Purifying Hand Wash with Olive Oil with a Coriander and Olive Oil scent. Not only does it disinfect my hands, but it can remove the lingering smell of garlic and onions from my digits. I also love their Repairing-Action Hand Cream.

2. Don't despair that the plastic bottle of liquid Palmolive looks unsightly in your glam home kitchen. Purchase a syrup pitcher and fill it with the green stuff. Now it'll be worthy of special spot next to your sparkling clean sink.

The Big Game & The Big Appetite

With only a few days to go before the Super Bowl, food sections are already starting in with ideas to help make your game day spread "special." Frankly, most of them sound way to complicated for me. Football and beer don't call for a major kitchen endeavor. But, still the recipes keep pouring in.

For example the Detroit Free Press suggests that you make your own pizza for the game, crust and all. You've got to be kidding. Even in Detroit they have delivery pizza. And heck, the recipes are from the California Pizza Kitchen - Could Michigan 'za be much worse?

Well, at this point, barring a friend inviting me over for guacamole and deviled eggs, think I'll probably hit a pub for the occassion. Besides, it's fun to watch with a crowd and a big screen TV - not to mention a bartender.

Death of a Dessert

Been trying to be on my "best behavior" food-wise, post-holiday season. But, I've got to admit that ice cream can often be a downfall.

My faves run the gamut from Pistachio Gelato and Pear Sorbet from Ciao Bella to Cherry-Vanilla from Haagen-Daz. And, not long ago, I added Ben & Jerry's Apple Crumble to the list.

But now - horror of horrors - I've learned that Apple Crumble has been put out to pasture. Or, more accurately, to the graveyard - Ben & Jerry's Flavor Graveyard. Yes, fans of "Six Feet Under" and Bovinity Divinity alike have been given the opportunity to virtually mourn their "dearly departed."

Check out the entire list, but here are a few that I shed a tear for:

Apple Crumble

Queen Celeste & The Devil

I adore my friend Celeste. She's one of those gals that has beauty, style, wit and just enough Southern charm that you can't hate her.

And, so when I saw that the Wall Street Journal was shining a spotlight on one of her below-the-Mason-Dixon-line faves - deviled eggs - I couldn't help but be pleased:

For every trend there is a counter-trend, which is why in the age of octopus-and-wasabi-gelato appetizers, you can also find iceberg wedges and mac n" cheese on menus. The latest rebellion: Deviled eggs, that quintessentially 1950's hors d'oeuvre. Some chefs are sticking with the classic yolk, mayo, and paprika filling, while others are mashing in capers and curry.

Two of the highlighted restaurants are in NYC:

RESTAURANT: Blue Smoke, New York City
ON THE MENU AS: Deviled Eggs with Toasted Almonds and Watercress
PREPARATION: Whites are filled with yolks pureed with mayonnaise, mustard, cayenne pepper and curry powder. Served with watercress salad.
PRICE: $5.95

RESTAURANT: Moto, Brooklyn, N.Y.
ON THE MENU AS: Eggs Stuffed with Spicy Tuna, Anchovies and Capers
PREPARATION: Four whites stuffed with yolks mashed with tuna, anchovies, capers, black pepper and olive oil.
PRICE: $4

Definitely need to go and try these cholesterol-packed apps out. But, have no fear Celeste - I'm still in love with your recipe. (Not that you'll part with it, mind you.)

P.S. A little added bonus for Queen C. - The New York Times gave a wonderful review today to Union Pacific, where we will be sharing a Restaurant Week dinner next week. The article doesn't mention it, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that Chef Rocco DiSpirito's own version of deviled eggs shows up on the menu.

Jamaica - Not Queens, But Brooklyn

At this point, it isn't a big surprise to friends and acquaintances that I'm willing to travel anywhere my Metrocard will take me in order to dine or drink well. So, I wasn't off-put in the slightest when a new friend, Kristin asked me to meet her in her nabe - the far off land known as Ditmas Park, Brooklyn - for a Jamaican dinner this past Sunday at Rug-b.

The directions on the Q train were simple enough. Without any fuss, we grabbed a table at the fairly empty, but colorfully decorated cafe, as she rhapsodizing about Roti and the fantastic bread pudding. The cafe is BYOB and Kristin was kind enough to bring a few bottles of Sam Adams to wash down the evening's culinary heat. Scanning the menu, we quickly decided on splitting one appetizer - at Phil's (owner/host) discretion - a Roti with Tofu and Bok Choy, and the Jerk Chicken, which Kristin insisted was moist and flavorful.

Phil was the barer of bad tidings: no Roti. But, he promised that we would fully enjoy the Seafood Run-down as a substitute. The Run-Down is a cross between an Asian and Caribbean seafood stew, featuring ginger, curry and thyme and a mix of mussels, shrimp, salmon and sweet potatoes. Considering we were getting mussels in our entree, we decided to forget about ordering the mussel appetizers and concentrate on our entrees. Besides, that left more room for dessert.

The entrees were beautifully prepared, flavorful, not too spicy hot - and huge. We weren't disappointed that we hadn't ordered an appetizer beforehand. But, on the other hand, we were disappointed with the chef's substitution of sweet plantain for the sweet potatoes in the Run-Down. Apparently the weather had prevented deliveries, but unfortunately the plantain just was too sweet and rich to work in the stew's sauce of coconut milk, lemongrass and seafood broth.

Nonetheless, it was all polished off, except for one lone mussel.

We called Phil back to the table and ordered dessert.

Once again, Phil had bad tidings: No dessert. The chef hadn't made any this week. We grumbled and then ordered coffee, only to be given the same response: No coffee. Aaargh!!! Apparently, Phil had turned off the urn a half-hour ago, even though it was only 9:15pm. Oh, well.

Seeing our unhappy faces, Phil ran off to the kitchen and discovered a stash of vanilla ice cream. He topped it with a carmelized mango syrup and smiles were had all around.

Smiles grew even wider when we looked at the check - With tax and tip, it was under $30. Jamaica in Brooklyn was getting better and better all the time.

But, next time, I'm calling ahead to make sure that the Roti and breadpudding are ready and awaiting my order. And, if they happen to slip a little goat on to the menu, I most certainly wouldn't complain.

Hospitality

I know I've discussed this topic ad nauseum in relation to high-brow "hot" spots, but had a hospitality "experience" over the weekend at Los Dos Molinos that I thought was worth sharing...

Short and sweet, the restaurant wasn't all that. The scene was kitschy, but nothing special. The food was only slightly above average. But, the service was really something to applaud. Friendly smiles. Attentive, but not pushy. Water glasses always filled. And, when we asked to share one of their over-sized margaritas after we were finished with our meal, when they still had patrons waiting for tables, they were accomodating.

To top it off, when they realized they had a party of six waiting and two tables for two right beside us, they offered to give us the drink on the house, if we'd move over to another table.

All I have to say is "muy bien!"

D.O.C. Doesn't Fall Flat

Braved the bitter cold last night to join my friend Jenn at D.O.C. Wine Bar, a Sardinian enoteca, located on a blustery corner in Williamsburg. We had almost decided not to go the extra block up 7th and just duck into our usual B-burg dinner haunt, Planet Thailand, but ultimately the additional block's walk in the frigid wind was worth it.

The second I opened the door I was greeted by a small, rustic, candlelit tavern, rough-hewn wooden tables and chairs, bottles and bottles of wine and most of all - warmth. I happily plunked myself down across from Jenn at a corner table. The waiter came over and quickly charmed us into buying a bottle of robust Italian red. Why not? We were beginning to thaw and it seemed like a good plan to stay put for the rest of the evening.

After a restorative glass of vino, it didn't take too much prompting to get us to split an order of the Smoked Swordfish Carpaccio special. The dish's topping of julienned greens, radishes, carrots and chopped hearts of palm were the perfect foil for the lightly smoked and buttery soft, thin slices of toothsome fish. The plate was cleaned within minutes.

Still feeling a bit undernourished, we asked for an antipasto plate of mixed cheeses, cured meats and grilled vegetables for one. I can't imagine how big the plate for two must be, because the wooden tray that was laid upon the table was bursting with mortadella, proscuitto, salumi, bresaola, three kinds of Sardinian cheeses (thankfully, the notorious Casu Marzu wasn't included), a rose made from grilled slices of zucchini and eggplant, and a large, round, house-baked, wafer-thin, flat bread dotted with rosemary leaves, known as carta da musica ("sheet-music paper"). Crisp and flavorful, it was a wonderful crackling accompaniment the rich meats and cheeses.

Fairly full and fairly tipsy, we still were unwilling to leave and brave the cold night air.

The waitstaff understood completely and immediately put a plate of Panettone with a Strawberry Zabaglione Sauce in the middle of our table. And, wouldn't it be unforgiveable to eat this decadent Italian dessert in a wine bar without some sort of dessert wine counterpoint? We had no choice. Two glasses of Brachetto d'Acqui were ordered.

We ate. We drank. We lingered until we could linger no longer. And, finally we realized that the L train might stop running, if we didn't head out. So, begrudgingly we layered ourselves in hats, scarves, gloves and alike and headed out. Once the door to D.O.C. closed behind us, the icy cold hit us like a Mack truck. But, even with the cold nipping at our heels, I don't think we would've opted for delivery fare in our well-heated homes over our night's visit to Sardinia via Williamsburg.

Port of Call

And, once again I'm invited to funfilled (and booze-filled) gourmet event, that my wallet just can't handle:

Dinner with Four of the Most Regarded Names in Port Wine

This February, lovers of port wine have a rare chance to sample a combined heritage spanning three centuries in the oldest demarcated wine region of the world.

Kobrand Corporation together with Palm Restaurants is hosting a series of dinners celebrating four of the most historic and highly regarded names in port wine: Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca Guimaraens, Croft, and Delaforce.

Each of these renowned port houses is now a member of the British, family-owned Fladgate Partnership in Portugal, and guiding you through their subtleties of structure, balance, and flavor will be Adrian Bridge, Managing Director of the partnership.

In an entire evening dedicated to port wine

Pain is Sweet

Brownie bondage? Not quite. According to a recent article from the Associated Press:

Common bell peppers rate zero Scoville units (named for Wilbur Scoville, a chemist who developed a method for testing peppers' heat). Crushed red pepper flakes rate 15,000 units. Jalape