VittlesVamp

Vittles in Venice

When I have dreamt of Venice, I've imagined venturing through alleyways and over bridges, taking in the romance and beauty of the city's canals. I have also thought of great art and the majesty (and many pigeons) of St. Mark's Square.

But, beyond a fizzy glass of Prosecco from the Veneto, I haven't had a specific Venetian culinary craving in mind.

That was a mistake. One that has been rectified.

I have one word for you: cicchetti.

It is a word doesn't describe a single dish. It describes a veritable smorgasbord of them. We're talking about Venetian tapas.

Think thick slices of toasted bread topped with delights that range from sweet-and-sour Sardine en Saor to thinly sliced Mortadella dotted with pistachios to mounds of White Anchovies to aged Sopressa salami with pickled Cipolline Onions. And, then lets add in some fried meatballs called Polpette, and Creamed Baccala on Polenta, Hard-Boiled Eggs halved and skewered with Roasted Plum Tomatoes and Basil.

Bear witness to a typical cicchetti spread at a neighborhood Venetian wine bar...

This was the selection at a spot called Ostaria Al Ponte in Cannaregio. Impressive display - and not expensive. Quite the combo! Order up a plateful of these snacks, add a glass of the aforementioned Prosecco, and call it dinner. A very good dinner at that!

Now, of course I couldn't resist hitting somewhere a bit more grand. And a grand time was exactly what I got at a local Michelin-starred restaurant called Local. Walking in the restaurant door, the kitchen was immediately on full display behind a wall of glass -- and the very handsome kitchen staff was on full display too, more than happy to wave and smile as I walked in with a friend for dinner.

For a Michelin-starred restaurant, there wasn't a whiff of pretension in the dining room. It was warm, airy and welcoming.

Yes. This was a great choice. We settled in, chatted with both the charming owner Benedetta and the sommelier Manuel and knew we were in very capable hands.

What followed was a tasting menu with wine pairings that was - in a word - stellar. The standout dish? Risotto with Smoked Butter, Eel, and Herring Caviar...

The meal was capped off with a tray of elixirs that I feared was burn-your-throat Grappa...

...but instead were bottles of Capovilla Fruit Distillations, all of which we were invited to nose before settling on a glass each - apricot for me and elderflower for my dinner companion.

No breakfast, lunch or dinner came close to topping our evening at Local.

That said, stopping for gelato at Suso...

...and a morning Macchiato standing at a coffee bar next to a few Gondoliers were memorable to say the least. Grocery shopping at the Rialto Market was a highlight as well.

But as soon as I was settling in to Venezia, Rome beckoned. Who was I to resist?

Listen Up! Podcast Chat with Gesine Bullock-Prado, Author of 'My Vermont Table'

A friend convinced me to start hosting monthly podcasts on New Book Network in their Food Channel. In truth, she didn't need to convince me that hard. Or, actually, at all.

Know the author of a recent cookbook on food/drink-related tome? Send them my way. I can't wait to chat them up!

My first cookbook author interview is with Gesine Bullock-Prado and we talk about her latest title, "My Vermont Table." Hope you can check it out: https://newbooksnetwork.com/a-vermont-table

Haute Indian Winter in Brooklyn

After my trip to London, I couldn't stop thinking about the superlative Indian restaurants I visited there. I needed a replay - but London is far. And, the high-end Indian spots in NYC are so popular that it is hard to score a table. So, I needed to put the matter in my own hands. Well, my hands and my pal Brett's hands as well.

We started with the above - a brunch of Bombay Scrambled Eggs from the late great Chef FLoyd Cardoz, and Curried Potatoes and Cashews, a riff on a Madhur Jaffrey recipe.

It wasn't just good. It was delicious.

A dinner party idea was born. And so it was...

That plate of Dal? It was in-freakin-credible. Brett outdid himself.

Next up, an Indian Chicken Rice Pilaf scented with coconut milk, ginger, tumeric, and more. Alongside, an umami-packed Oyster Mushroom Curry.

And then there was dessert...

Hell-to-the-yes! Tejal Rao's Quick Mango Kulfi recipe is pure genius. The trick? Canned mangos from India. Seriously. Canned. Soooo good.

Do I still want to return to London's haute Indian restaurant scene? Do I want to nab a reservation at Sona and Semma in Manhattan? Yes and yes! But in the meantime, I am trying my best to get Brooklyn to deliver as best as my kitchen (and Brett's) can muster.

Chocolate Shortbread

Ted Lasso has given us all shortbread envy. While we await the third season, thought it was high time to come up with my own shortbread recipe.

Didn't even want to try to replicate the shortbread that Ted brings Rebecca for his daily "Biscuits with the Boss" sessions. That would be a reach. Instead, I decided to make a rich, slightly salty chocolate shortbread studded with bits of dark chocolate. I use two different kinds of cocoa to lend a little more complexity to the chocolate character of the biscuits.

Three of these delectable chocolate shortbread cookies are pictured above with a few tender slivers of candied orange peel. I recommend the combination! And, a bit of Dry Orange Curacao to go with wouldn't be a bad idea either, if I do say so myself!

Chocolate Shortbread

2 cups all-purpose flour
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder (I use Hershey's)
1 tablespoon unsweetened red Dutch-processed cocoa powder (I use Guittard Cocoa Rouge)
1 1/8 teaspoon Kosher salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted cold butter, cut into 1-inch chunks
1/3 cup dark chocolate chips or 2 oz dark chocolate chopped

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place flour, sugar, both cocoa powders, and salt into a food processor and pulse. Add butter and chocolate and pulse to fine crumbs. Pulse a few more times until some crumbs start to come together, but don't overprocess. Dough should not be smooth. Press dough into an ungreased 8- or 9-inch-square baking pan. Bake 35 minutes for 9-inch pan, 45 minutes for 8-inch. Cool completely in the pan and then gently turn over the pan on top of a cutting board to release. Cut into bars.

Coffee Talk

While Mike Myers' SNL coffee klatsch character Linda Richman has a special place in my heart, there is a real world version that gets my entire neighborhood verklempt - or at the very least, gets Brooklyn Heights' intelligensia to line up.

There is a slip of a coffee shop in the Clark Street 2/3 subway arcade that is attracting coffee lovers who are also seeking some mental stimulation. The tiny stand - a branch of Drip - is often manned by a barista named Andy (pictured above) who seems to spark the cerebral in locals, whether he is making a pour-over or pulling an espresso shot.

I recently stopped by for a latte, just as Andy was wrapping up a discussion about Hegel with a customer who is getting a PhD in Philosophy. Didn't need to glom onto the chat about Hegel, but I did have a hankering to learn about how these types of conversations start in the moments between placing an order and getting your morning or afternoon brew. I asked him about some of his most interesting chats behind the bar - the coffee bar that is.

The most interesting?

Well, there was the fascinating Bangladeshi Jewish Zionist who shared thoughts on Central Asia and Middle Eastern politics, Afghanistan, Palestine, and more. Then there was the local celebrity that kicked off a deep discussion about self-actualization. And, there was the fintech executive that debated the merits of digital currencies.

Let's not forget about all of the neighbors who notice that Andy has squirreled away a paperback at the back of the stall for when it gets slow - one of Robert Caro's tomes on LBJ - and then want to talk U.S. history and the lore of Camelot - or simply go down a bookworm rabbithole while sipping on a cortado.

Andy says that knowing a little about a lot has been a big help in propelling highly-engaged discussion. While his college years were focused on biology and microbiology, he sees himself as a generalist: "I think Gladwell talks about this 'being general' stuff as being quite beneficial as a society, because then you can talk about several different things and people [admire that you have a level of] competency."

He recognizes that intellectual conversation can been seen as a valuable commodity these days, especially in a world where "most people want to talk about the Kardashians."

Moreover, he is genuinely delighted to have these sorts of exchanges - dialogue that is reminiscent of the rhetoric that we all imagined we'd have at that perfect coffee shop just off of the college green.

Well, the Clark Street subway stop isn't anywhere near a college green, but there is educational housing located right above. And, between the dorm, the aroma of espresso, and Andy, I may be able to make out a bit of college green in the not-too-far-off distance.

Tis The Season To Be Cooking

No one will be surprised, but I have been cooking for a crowd as of late. Many dinner parties at my table this season. Frankly, just the fact that I can gather friends at my table is reason enough to celebrate!

Some of the menus? Happy to share...

First up was a post-Thankgiving fêtê which started with Oysters from my pals David and Catherine, who shucked with glee, while I shook up cocktails. At the table, the first course was a Dayboat Lemon Sole Crudo with Fresh Chives and Toasted Pinenuts. That was followed by two lovely Buttermilk-Brined Chickens with Thyme under the skin, roasted atop slabs of Sweet Vidalia Onion. The glorious birds were served with a Chicory Salad in a Champagne-Shallot Vinaigrette, sliced Baguette from L'Appartement 4F, and softened French butter.

Dessert? So glad you asked...

--Lowcountry Peanut Pie - from a recipe in Garden & Gun - topped with fresh Whipped Cream.

The next dinner party was a collaboration with my friends Wendy and Mark - a Sicilian dinner. After some antipasti during cocktail hour, the two served up a Seafood Salad with Celery and Fennel. Then came a pasta course from yours truly - Rigatoni alla Norma...

...pasta tossed in a spicy tomato sauce with chunks of eggplant, oodles of fresh basil and a shower of shaved ricotta salata. My recipe combined one from Chef Sara Jenkins and some ideas from an article about this mainstay Italian dish in The Guardian.

This pasta elicited some serious oohs and aahs.

And, then there was dessert - a collaborative dessert. We made a Deconstructed Cannoli: scoops of my Ricotta Sorbet, each bowl graced with a sprinkle of chocolate flakes, crushed pistachio, chopped Luxardo cherries, and a glorious Vanilla Pizzelle Cookie from Wendy and Mark's kitchen. The cookie was joyfully plunked in the middle to resemble "Cosmo's Moon."

The following week, I went in a different direction - a distinctly New Orleans direction. I whipped up a Cajun/Creole feast for friends. It started with Shrimp Ravigote over Wedges of Iceberg. We then moved onto to steaming bowls of Chicken and Andouille Gumbo, with a smattering of heat from the combination of cayenne and Crystal.

It was lovely, but dessert was the real showstopper...

--Almond Croissant Bread Pudding, served warm.

Did I have one more dinner party in me before Christmas came barreling by?

Why, yes. And, it was quite the festive repast, if I do say so myself!

Jumbo sous-vided Shrimp Cocktail grabbed the spotlight during the cocktail hour. Seated, the spotlight moved over to a Wild Salmon Tartare...

...the gorgeous Toro-grade fish from Shipwreck Seafood Boutique and the recipe from Ottolenghi. Bite-sized chunks of glistening salmon were tossed with lemon, olive oil and shallots, topped with tarragon and chopped pistachio, and drizzled with brown butter with cumin seeds, served with wafer-thin slices of watermelon radish.

Oh, hell, yes!

The main was a Roast Pork Loin with Wild Fennel Pollen and a homemade Apple Chutney. Alongside, there was a Bitter Lettuce Salad and my go-to marriage of 4F Baguette with French butter.

Dessert was low-key - individual Chocolate Soufflés with Pistachio Gelato.

Jealous? Want to angle for an invite to my next get-together? Smart idea.

Meanwhile though, sharing my recipe for Rigatoni alla Norma, so you can taste a bit of Chez Vamp at your own table.

Rigatoni alla Norma

2 medium eggplants, cut into 3/4″ cubes
4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, minced
3/4 tsp. crushed red chile flakes
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 (28-oz.) can whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes, undrained and crushed by hand
1 lb. rigatoni
4 oz. ricotta salata, grated
1 cup fresh basil leaves, torn by hand
Kosher salt & black pepper

Sprinkle eggplant with salt (about 2 tsps.) and let sit in a colander for a half-hour. Squeeze out excess liquid out of the cubes with a dishtowel.

Set oven to 450 degrees. Put eggplant into a bowl and drizzle with 3 tbsp. oil. Toss to combine and season with salt and pepper. Transfer eggplant to 2 baking sheets and bake, turning occasionally, until soft and caramelized (about 20 minutes). Put aside.

Heat remaining oil in a large pot and saute onion until soft over a medium flame and then add garlic and chile flakes. Stir another 3 minutes and then add the tomatoes, crushing them a bit as they hit the pot. Add half the basil. Add salt and black pepper to taste. Cook down for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, boil rigatoni to al dente, following the manufacturer's instructions. Save a little of the starchy water if needed to help bind the sauce. Strain the pasta and toss into the tomato sauce along with the eggplant. Stir to combine.

Serve topped with the remaining fresh basil and the ricotta salata.

Haute Indian Fall In London

I went to London. Yes, I had a pint at a pub. I also experienced a swanky rendition of high tea. But, the real culinary treat was the incredible upscale Indian fare.

I was staying in Marylebone, so I did pop into Chiltern Firehouse for a cocktail (or two) before my first gourmet Indian supper. Cocktails were grand. The scene was grander. Yet, I was quite content to wander a few blocks away to the Michelin-starred Trishna. The menu was overwhelming. I decided to go for the tasting to try a range of the offerings. A gorgeous tray of Papads with three Chutneys was first up (pictured above) and considering how I devoured this Indian version of "chips and dips," I knew I'd made the right call.

A dish of Kerala Prawn Curry was a particular favorite of the evening, stewed with tamarind and coconut...

And then Dev Patel walked in.

He was just as striking as the food - maybe more so. OK, definitely more so. The rest of the night is a happy blur.

Clearly, I was going to need to go out for high-end Indian again, before I left London. For my next excursion, I visited Pahli Hill, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand nod. This time, no Dev Patel. But, the evening was lovely nonetheless. Standout dish? Most definitely the Papati Chat...

...a glorious plate of crispies with yogurt, tomato, tamarind, Delicata squash, mint and pomegranate seeds.

Now, I have had some great Indian food in the States - in NJ in particular - but nothing that has ever reached the stellar heights of haute Indian in London. If you've found somewhere that could compete on that score, please drop me a line! I am so in!

New Finds In Lisbon

Yes, when I am lucky enough to visit somewhere more than once, I adore returning to old haunts and fabulous favorites. But, there is still something in the depths of my food-obsessed soul that yearns to uncover the new.

Now, I didn't think I would actually "discover" anything that wasn't on the radar of others during my latest trip to Lisbon. That being said, did end up following the advice of Culinary Backstreets and nabbed myself a reservation at a fairly new hot spot - Tasca Baldracca - a very cool, casual restaurant in Mouraria. It comes equipped with an oversized chalkboard to share today's menu, heavily tattooed owners who can't wait to pour you a glass of wine that will put a smile on your face, and just enough attitude to make sure you know that you've been somewhere special.

And, the food? AHH-MAZING!

After a glass of red that had me at "hello," I kept with the red theme - in this case with red meat...

This is unequivocally the finest Steak Tartare I have ever had. It was served with puffy, fried batons of pastry, so you could scoop up the raw goodness and spoon it into a bit of pastry for a contrast of flavors and textures. Add a bit of the umami-rich anchovy mayo or house-fermented mustard and it was over the top.

Next up, I went for something cooked...

This Roasted Suckling Pig had a crackling that balanced crisp with a touch of fatty chew. The meat was beyond tender. The fennel and orange salad alongside had a handful of chili peppers, and the heat made the whole dish come together beautifully.

And, who was I to say no to dessert?

Yes! The chalkboard said Leite Creme de Doce de Liete - and I knew that a custard of what we call Dulce de Leche would be a lovely finish. When one of the owners plunked down a glass and a whole bottle of Moscatel to go with, I knew that this was less of a finish and more of a finale.

It was an incredible meal. I could have ended the night there. But, I didn't.

Just steps away there was a "Basque-Italian" bar called Quattro Teste that called to me. The room was elegant, yet cozy. Strangely, it was empty at first, but within a few minutes avid cocktail fans started to make their way in. Thankfully, I had an opportunity to speak with owner/bartender Alf before the place got too busy and met his partner and wife Marta as well. One G&T later, I was ready to try one of their own concoctions...

The Piemontese was a cocktail to love - Cucielo Rosso vermouth, Stravecchio Branca brandy, Nardini Elixir de China, and Izarra Groc. It was an aromatic, bitter nightcap that capped me off brilliantly.

No surprise here if Tasca Baldracca and Quattro Teste end up on my "must return" list whenever I am next in Lisbon.

Return To Lisbon

I may have come to Lisbon for work, but conference schmonference - I felt exhilarated to return. The sun was out. The Vino Verde flowed. I needed to visit some of my favorite spots. Staying in Principe Real, the Pavilhão Chinês was a first stop, chockablock with curiosities and an air of worn elegance, I couldn't wait to hit the bar and order up a G&T...

The drinks aren't really the point there, but the swirl of oddball collectibles and memorabilia, coupled with chandeliers and floor to ceiling art, make it a the perfect perch for a before-dinner tipple.

Where after? A taxi to Belem to the newly spiffed-up Nunes Real Marisqueira was a solid pick. See this massive shrimp?

Incredibly sweet and tender. There was a cavalcade of other seafood delights - including a platter overflowing with two different types of fresh shrimp. These were smaller, steamed and chilled, ready for peeling and dipping into garlicky aioli.

How do you say "Yaaaassss!!!" in Portuguese?

And, Nunes wasn't my only "must" place for seafood. The Sea Me outpost at Time Out Market was another favorite that warranted a return visit...

The Seared Sardine Nigiri and the Cod Nigiri with Toasted Almonds are justly famous. Melt-in-your-mouth doesn't even begin to do them justice.

Coffee was also had. Both Copenhagen Coffee Lab and Fabrica Coffee Roasters rival for my affections. But for the lauded dessert of Lisbon, the Pasteis de Nata?

I was all in with Manteigaria's burnished custard beauties, still warm from the oven.

So good.

There is something undeniably warming about returning to places like these - culinary gems, if ever there were.

But don't be mistaken. New hot spots were discovered on the trip as well.

Hold tight. Details are forthcoming...

Almeja

How to start my first dinner in Porto? There was no question: Port Tonico.

The place? A stylish downtown bistro called Almeja.

The food? A delicious tasting menu that had me at "hello"...

That "hello" came in the form of Gordal Olives stuffed with anchovies, served with a scoop of intense Lemon Sorbet.

Well, hello!

A series of spectacular tastes followed, including a rich chicken broth, accompanied by bite-sized Chicken Pies. Then there was Toasted Pig's Head Terrine with escabeche and apple...

Bread was served with fermented butter and an olive oil that I was tempted to drink from a glass. A twirl of Green Beans came with a pumpkin puree, fried egg, and fragrant green curry...

A pristine piece of Yellowtail was served with shucked cockles, atop cuscos, bathed in a saffron-citrus sauce...

A melt-in-your-mouth piece of Alejento Pork came with an almond cream and salsify. And, then there was a very curious dessert of Sweet Curry with Coconut Sorbet...

And, to gild the lily, a riff on a Banoffee with frozen white chocolate yogurt and a drizzle of warm toffee sauce finished things off with a glass of Tawny Port.

It was quite the greeting to Lisbon's sister to the North. Talk about a howdy!

My Kind of Comfort Food

There is something undeniably comforting about a plate of Lox, Eggs and Onions for dinner. A few snips of fresh dill on top and it is practically gourmet.

Thinly sliced onion caramelized until golden brown. Nova scotia smoked salmon seared. A quick whisking of eggs tossed into the sizzling pan.

So simple. So good. Lox, Eggs and Onions. It's what's for dinner.

I Don't Want Anything Too Sweet

That phrase can make a good bartenders' eyes roll. Why? Because the issue usually isn't sugar. It's that the patron has had one too many poorly make cocktails that relied too heavily on simple syrup to do the work alongside the booze. A well-balanced cocktail can have sugar. It's all in the balance.

Case in point - a drink at The HiHi Room called Rum & Cake. Get it? Rum & Cake! It literally brings together Mount Gay XO Rum and a Coconut Cake in a glass.

I can hear you now, "Ick! That sounds way too sweet for me!"

But this isn't an over sweetened mess. In fact, it is quite the opposite. This an astutely built beverage. Couldn't expect less from HiHi's gifted lead bartender Izzy Tulloch, who just left the Cobble Hill restaurant to join the team at Soho's soon-to-open Milady's.

And, to make matters even more transcendent, let me tell you about that Coconut Cake that's in the drink. It is by none other than celebrated Pastry Chef Caroline Schiff of Gage & Tollner, who was just named one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs of 2022. That cake has some serious street cred.

The pair wash Lustau Sherries with the cake. Yes, you read right. That is Coconut Caked-washed Sherry in that drink alongside the rum. Then a bit of Coconut Demerara to complete the beverage that will make your eyes roll - roll back into your head with pleasure that is.