VittlesVamp

CDMX Bars: The Quest Will Continue

I went to Mexico City with some gal pals a couple of weekends ago. A marvelous time was had by all. The design scene? Yes! The food scene? Yes! The bar scene? Not so much...

Now, I had heard tale of amazing cocktail haunts throughout the city. We went to two that have serious cocktail list rankings - Hanky Panky and Handshake. The former cracked into the top 100 list of best bars on planet earth. The latter - drumroll please - was actually named the #1 best bar in the world.

Not too shabby, eh?

Well, I didn't like either spot.

Hanky Panky had the whole "speakeasy" conceit down with the bar being hidden through the kitchen of a taqueria.

The room felt like some Disney World imagineer's idea of a "cool bar scene." And, the cocktails? Thumbs down. Not one of our drinks was balanced. Each tipped the scale too far in one direction or the other. We even left without finishing our drinks - hoping that this was an aberration.

Surely a visit to Handshake for a nightcap would redeem Mexico City's cocktail cred, right?

Wrong.

The bar is located at the entranceway to a nondescript hotel, supposedly "hidden" because of its unmarked black door. Hmmm. The crowd lined up at the door gave that big secret away. Still, I was hopeful.

I shouldn't have been.

We were summoned inside and into a fairly non-descript room with a few flourishes - and then was thrown by a huge shout out from the staff and a few patrons: "Bienvenidos!"

Seriously?

And, they did that every single freakin' time anybody came into the bar.

That wasn't all. They tried to rally everyone to shout "Hasta luego" when parties left too.

Now the question is: how were the drinks? The answer: they were good.

They were mostly clarified punches. Tasty clarified cocktails. Were they mind-blowing? No. They were good. But definitely not good enough to off-set the cheesy, forced vibe in the room.

I can promise you that I will find a bar that I love in CDMX; maybe several. I'm just not going to follow the top bars lists anymore to find my Mexico City watering holes.

So, I didn't find my cocktail spot this time around. I will return. Great cocktails will be found. That said, I did find many a fine taco - and many other delights. In fact, there is a restaurant I need to tell you about. It was the flipside of my bar experience in CDMX. It was everything I wanted and more...Stay tuned...

There Aren't Enough Baked Goods In The World To Thank The Nurses

I have never written a truer sentence.

Today, I was finally able to return Mama Vamp to some semblance of her regular life - after several weeks in the hospital and then a physical rehab facility.

I am grateful.

I have also spent a great deal of moolah on pastries and bagels over the last few weeks. It was worth each and every penny. I wouldn't visit without bringing baked goods in tow. That was the very least I could do for the nursing staff - who was vigilant and efficient and deeply caring. Amazing people.

I brought sfogliatella and biscotti from Termini Bros, decadent chocolate chip cookies from Levain, bagels and spreads from Kismet, donuts from Federal Donuts, and babka (pictured above) and rugelach from K'Far.

If I had been in Brooklyn, I would have baked my brains out for these folks.

I guess now it is time to bring baked goods to Mama Vamp - and her primary care physician, so we can keep her from returning to the hospital any time soon.

I am on the case. The bakery case, that is...

Sicily in FiDi

I recently discovered a gem in the Financial District. Or should I say un gioiello?

A small storefront with the name Best Sicily Bottega is hidden away on Beaver Street, with the scent of real espresso wafting through its door.

The first time I visited the place was all about espresso - espresso for 25 Italian travelers that were crammed in and happily sipping afternoon coffees. They were brought there by an Italian tour guide that knew that he would need to appease his tour group with an honest espresso once a day.

That day's espresso was at Best Sicily Bottega. And, it wasn't until the gaggle of Italians departed that I could spy the housemade sandwiches, ready for a hot press; the delicate olive oil biscotti cookies awaiting a cappuccino for dunking; the giant ariancini stuffed with ground beef and peas; and the myriad of fresh-from-the-fryer bombolini...

I now find myself taking the 2 or 3 subway regularly to the Wall Street stop to partake in a bit of Sicily. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than a plane. And, the espresso? Bellisima!

I Depend On The Kindness of Bartenders

That subject line isn't completely accurate, but a kind bartender was much needed over the last week and a half. Why? Unfortunately, Mama Vamp has been in a Philadelphia hospital, with the road to the recovery seeming way too far off in the distance.

Thankfully, Philly bartenders are a kind and jovial lot -- not to mention talented.

Hat tip to Paul at the James Beard-nominated Love Bar at Friday Saturday Sunday, Cosette at a.Kitchen, Mikey and Sara at Dizengoff, and Wei-Wei at the stylish speakeasy Franklin Mortgage & Investment.

Have to give a special shout out to Mustafa, who I first encountered behind the bar Bolo. As soon as I spied his handcrafted pineapple cocktail strainer, I knew I had to have one. Bought one from him last night.

I hope to shake, stir and strain again soon, pineapple in hand. I will be raising a glass in honor of Mama Vamp's recuperation.

Don't Sleep On Celery

Celery isn't on any hot lists.

Cauliflower? Yes! Butternut squash? Yes! Ramps? Hells to the freakin' yes!

Let me say - celery deserves to be on the hot list as well.

A dinner at the uber hot Williamsburg restaurant The Four Horsemen featured a Celery-Date Salad that had the whole table swooning.

Was this some sort of magic that was cast by the glorious wines we had been enjoying? Or was it possible that celery has magic on its own (or at least when it is married with dates, toasted walnuts, and shaved Piave Vecchio cheese)?

To put it to the test, I located the recipe from Chef Nick Curtola on the Wall Street Journal's site and made it as a starter at a recent dinner party.

The whole table swooned.

Celery. It's hot. Ramps better watch their back.

Gourmet Gifting

Twas the season. Cookie baking was mandatory and gift-giving was in motion.

When I am honest with myself, I know I am challenging person to buy for. I live in a small - but lovely - apartment, so "stuff" often ends up as clutter. I also don't need much that I don't already buy for myself. Plus, I am persnickety.

Not a good combo when my birthday and the holidays converge in the same month.

But this year, my friends did me a solid. Seriously great gifting!

A German baking book after I received my German citizenship in mid-December? Yes, please! (Already baked one humdinger of an apple cake from the tome pictured above!)

Recognizing that what I lack in space, I make up for in numerous dinner parties, I was gifted an expandable wooden cheese board with cheese knives hidden within. It folds into a quarter of its full size for easy storage. Yes!

Also knowing that I need to clean up after said dinner parties, another friend gave me a trio of tough kitchen sponges that offered the additional benefit of being sparkly. Functional and festive? Yes!

And, then there was the present that celebrated my long-lasting, deeply affectionate relationship with Sven - aka my dishwasher. That's right, I christened it Sven many many years ago, and he's never let me down since.

Now, a complete set of dish towels and pot holders emblazoned with the name "Sven" grace my kitchen. YAAAASSSS!

Spätzle, Rote Grütze & Why Umlauts Have Become Very Important To Me

First of all, I strongly recommend that you take a listen to my latest podcast interview for New Books Network. It is a chat with Luisa Weiss, who recently released a gorgeous cookbook devoted to classic German recipes and culinary traditions. Here is a link to the interview.

Now, to address the title of this post.

Yes, both spätzle (lovely, toothsome German noodles) and rote grütze (a springy red berry pudding) are mentioned during my discussion with Luisa Weiss.

But, why am I now saying that umlauts have an outsized importance to me?

In a couple of hours I am becoming German. I will get myself down to the German Consulate, near the UN, and partake in a naturalization ceremony. (Lederhosen is not required.)

Yup. I am going to be a dual citizen.

Does that mean you'll be reading about a German dinner party soon? Does this mean more trips to Berlin in the new year?

Ja und ja!

Lucky Southeast Asian Potluck

I have a great number of blessings and several lucky turns to be thankful for.

Seriously. I know I am fortunate - very fortunate.

My foodie friends are just one of the many joys on my proverbial plate - and on my literal plate too.

Case in point: a Southeast Asian potluck dinner at friends' apartment the other night.

My contribution? A banging rendition of a Thai dish that pairs pieces of fresh pineapple with a room temperature pork, shallot, palm sugar and fish saucey jam. Sound weird? Perhaps. Taste delicious? Heck yeah! The dish is called Ma Haw, and here is the recipe.

Now, let's turn our attention to what others brought to the table...

Vietnamese Banh Mi with sliced steak and homemade paté. Someone else "whipped up" gorgeously sour Pork Larb. Another guest made spicy Thai Papaya Salad. And then there was this...

Holy mother f*ckin' sh*t! This Thai Khao Soi was ethereal. Apparently it was based on a recipe from the dearly departed Thai hot spot Pok Pok. I immediately looked up the recipe.

The recipe is a heavy lift. That potluck guest brought some serious weight to the game. I was duly impressed.

And then, there was this...

Wow.

Yeah. One of the guests was a former Pastry Chef (she preferred Pastry Cook) at a Michelin-starred restaurant. Her Southeast Asian-inspired dessert was a beauty - a Filipino calamansi pudding with lime zest, coconut crunch and little meringue buttons.

Yup. Enormously thankful for my foodie friends.

And, to be clear, their friendship is even better than their food.

How lucky am I?

Unboxing in Paris

So, I didn't just go to Berlin last month. I took a quick trip to Paris because...well, because it's Paris! And, when in Paris you shop. Yes, I dropped by some vintage shops and the occasional jewelry store, but my kind of shopping is pastry shopping.

Paris was happy to oblige.

First stop? I went to Rue Montorgueil to visit the oldest patisserie in Paris, Stohrer, which was founded in 1730. It's an oldie, but a goodie. Oh, and what goodies awaited.

And, frankly, I couldn't wait much longer than a few steps out of the shop before I had to break open my box...

...and indulge in heavenly bite of vanilla pastry cream in a Puits d'Amour...

I was deeply in amour.

And, now I needed to be shaken out of my reverie. Oui? Oui!

Onto The French Bastards! They are known for being eminently Instagrammable. Did I 'gram? Non! I saved my snapshot for le blog. And here it is...

...a truly divine Chocolate Pear Tart. Did they box it up for me though? Regrettably, I just got a bag. Now, I know why they are bastards!

One last pastry stop before I headed to the airport to catch my flight back to NYC. I took a morning stroll down Rue du Nil and hit the Terriors d'Avenir Boulangerie. The bread selection was stunning, but this is what called to me from behind the case...

...an utterly perfect Crousti-Flan that melted in my mouth and offered a crunchy, caramel-like base. This was addictive. I wanted to take a box of them home, but thought better of it.

But I'll be back. More unboxing will be necessary in 2025.

Lobster Roll Party

When you can't go to Maine, you bring it to you.

Did I order a Lobster Roll kit from Bite Into Maine?

I did one better.

I bought lobster meat from the Restaurant Depot in Brooklyn and then followed Kenji Lopez-Alt's recipe for Connecticut-Style Lobster Rolls. I also bought some kettle potato chips, sliced up some lemon wedges, and made Agi's Counter Cabbage Slaw with loads of fresh dill, recipe from Chef Jeremy Salamon's Second Generation cookbook.

Admittedly, Bite Into Maine has access to far superior lobster meat. Still, these were pretty darn delicious, if I do say so myself.

And, I do.

At The Bar In Berlin

A business trip to Berlin allowed me to reacquaint myself with the city from a different perspective -- a Kreuzberg perspective.

Whereas my last visit placed me firmly in the tony section of Mitte, this time I was going for hipster with a side of bohemia and an edge of artsy.

My client's headquarters was smack dab in the middle of this decidedly youthful, counterculture neighborhood. That made for access to some of the city's best Turkish food (yes, Adana Grillhaus is worth the fuss.) It also introduced me to the ever-so-elegant Oriana Hotel and its brilliant bar.

You know when you meet a bartender who you really connect with -- as a fellow cocktail nerd? I am lucky enough to say, I have a few bartending faves. Now, Julian Berger, the Oriana Bar's Bar Manager is among them.

Why? Let's just say that I caught the man making his own house non-alcoholic Amaro. Not enough? How about Peking Duck fat-washed Whiskey? Need more? Get a gander at this lovely...

Playfully enough, this cocktail is called a TonkaTruck. It includes Appleton Estate 8yr Reserve Estate Rum, Tonka, Coffee eau de Vie, a special Vermouth blend, Pedro Ximénez Sherry, and a Raspberry Cordial. Final flavor profile? A very surprising and very delicious perfectly ripe dark cherry.

Huzzah. I have my bar and my bartender in Berlin. Sehr gut!

Hungarian & Eastern European Fare For A New Generation

I have been a fan of Chef Jeremy Salamon's modern takes on Hungarian, Eastern European and Jewish cuisine since he worked at The Eddy in the East Village. And, I have been lucky enough to dine at his Crown Heights restaurant Agi's Counter since it opened up a few years back, diving into dishes that range from Pickled Mackerel Toast to Caraway Shortbread Cookies.

So, no surprise that when I learned that he was coming out with a cookbook, I reached out for a podcast interview for the New Books Network.

Really enjoyed the conversation. In addition, I know I will really enjoy making some of the recipes at home. And, I am looking forward to returning to Agi's Counter and checking out his new upcoming restaurant in Red Hook, called Pitts. (Sure it'll be anything but!)

Take a listen to the podcast chat here.