VittlesVamp

By Request: My Champagne-Shallot Vinaigrette

Yesterday, I snapped a picture of lunch for a post on my Instagram feed. The image is above. The composed salad featured matchsticks of endive leaf, slices of pear, a generous crumbling of Jasper Hill Farms Bayley Hazen Blue Cheese, and a handful of toasted walnuts.

The photo struck a chord. Several folks asked for the recipe. How could I say no?

It's a classic combination -- but what really brings all the flavors together is a vinaigrette. It's a recipe I have turned to time and time again. Happy to share. It is a fantastic dressing for a range of different salad combinations. And, although I make it with thyme, you can feel free to swap it out for any number of herbs, including tarragon or oregano.

Champagne-Shallot Vinaigrette

1 medium-sized shallot, minced (about 3 TBSP)
2 TBSP Dijon mustard
4 tsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped
1/2 tsp Kosher salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup Champagne vinegar
3/4 cups olive oil

With a fork or small whisk, stir together the minced shallots, mustard, thyme, salt, pepper in a bowl. Add the vinegar and whisk until it is all melded together. Slowly add the oil while whisking, until emulsified. Let the vinaigrette sit for at least an hour before using. Even better, let sit overnight.

Eating Out of Season

I am 110% about eating foods while they are in season. Asparagus and Ramps in April or May. Cherries in June. Peaches in July. But some seasonal designations are beyond me.

For example, lore has it that we should only be eating shellfish, particularly oysters, in months with the letter “R."

Ummm...I think it depends on the shellfish in question. Local oysters are harvested at different times of the year, but considering we fly many a shelled beauty across the country, I have slurped oysters throughout the year.

Clams definitely have a season, if we are talking about wild varieties. But, Stuffed Clams are a year-round indulgence. The platter above was had at Bostwick's front patio in East Hampton just a couple weeks ago. On the other hand, I ordered something else off the menu, which may be a bit more controversial...

Yes, a gorgeous Lobster Roll. For some reason this glorious sandwich is considered a gustatory hallmark of summer. Yet, I enjoyed this one in November. I enjoyed it fully, gleefully, and without guilt!

According to Maine-Lobster.com, "There is no special Maine lobster season for the hard-shell lobsters that are more commonly shipped out of state, since lobstering is done year-round in the waters off Maine. More lobsters are caught in the summer months than during the winter, but that is mainly because the demand is higher due to tourism, and because the working conditions are easier."

So, admonish me at your peril. There is no seasonality issue at play. Besides, it's a pandemic for goodness sakes! If I want a Lobster Roll in November, so be it. And, you know what? I might want another one in December. And, just to put it over the edge, I might wear white after Labor Day.

I'm such a rebel!

Salad Days...& Frittata Days Too

Pandemic cooking for one means leftovers. For me, leftovers demand a bit of creativity. I'm not suggesting that eating the same meal a few days in a row might not be just fine - but I often crave change.

A go-to solution? Salads. All sorts of salads. Case in point: the Lamb Salad above, featuring slices of grilled lamb from the previous night's dinner, red leaf lettuce, some cooked carrots (also from the previous evening's repast), a few stray croutons, some olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, and a makeshift dressing that mixed together spicy olive oil and shallot vinaigrette from dinner the other night.

Another way to go? Frittata. Here's a snapshot of a recent beauty...

...highlighting previously sautéed zucchini and onions with some goat cheese. Already earmarking some leftover roasted Brussels sprouts and rice in the fridge for a frittata later this week. A bit of Gruyere might play well with those ingredients as well.

Salads and frittatas - where leftovers find new life!

Hummus Is Where The Heart Is

Finally was able to get to Philadelphia and see Mama Vamp.

Did we celebrate? My mother made a special request - that I bring cocktail supplies to make her something special that we could sip together. I packed up a shaker, a jigger, and small bottles of St. Germaine and Applejack. Montparnasse cocktails were shaken and poured into good crystal coupes. We raised them, toasted to being in good health and lucky enough to be together.

One round and we were hungry. Very hungry. Some things don't change. Thank goodness!

It was a beautiful Saturday and Philadelphians were out-and-about, masked up, sitting outdoors at local cafes. Wait times for a table were upwards of a half-hour. Not surprised. We kept walking and then saw it - Dizengoff - Chef Michael Solomonov's Center City Hummuyisa. In other words - a trip to Tel Aviv without the flight.

Yes. This was lunch. Gorgeous, light, fluffy hummus. One platter topped with roasted cauliflower and pistachios, and another with roasted brisket, beefy in a rich tomato and onion sauce. Swiped the plates with freshly baked pitas and thick slices of Persian cucumbers.

Oh, yes.

It made me question why I haven't made Solomonov's hummus recipe as of late. The difference between the homemade stuff, using his recipe, and the stuff in the market? They aren't even close. A comparison isn't fair. Solomonov's hummus is revelatory. The secret ingredient? Ice water. Seriously. Ice water.

I may have been leaning on my "Meat and Greek" combo throughout the pandemic, but "Hummus and Friends" may be my next go-to. It'll make me think of Mama Vamp. And, I have a strange feeling that even if I start making the hummus at home, I'll be visiting Dizengoff again with my mom the next time I am in Philly.

Her face lit up tasting its creamy goodness. Maybe the company had something to do with the smile too - but that hummus sure didn't hurt!

Francophile Brooklyn-Style

I wouldn't necessarily categorize myself as a Francophile, but boy was I disappointed when my March trip to Paris was cancelled. That said, I do recognize that the whole world was cancelled in March. My trip was simply a small bit of collateral damage.

Nonetheless, I've been mooning over photos of the City of Light and riffing on French recipes, watching Instagram Live sessions directly from Paris, and occasionally visiting a French restaurant here in Brooklyn with a garden out back -- all in an effort to try to reclaim a trip that never was.

A new go-to in this pursuit? A sliver of a shop in Carroll Gardens -- Le French Tart Deli.

The word "deli" throws it all a bit askew to me, but once inside this French gem, you are surrounded by foodstuffs and sundries that transport you to the Left Bank.

Think mustards. Many, many mustards...

Think boxes of popular French cookies and supermarche grab-and-go cakery...

And, then there is a refrigerator stocked with saucisson sec, jambon de Paris, duck rillette, and pâté. Did I mention the cheeses? Soft-ripened double cream cheese with a side of homemade fig jam? Yes, please!

Oh, and there is a freezer brimming with ready-made meals like Blanquette de Veau and Cassoulet Toulousain.

But then, there is this...

Le French Tart Deli makes a supremely good baguette.

And, if you like their baguette, you'll love...

...their selection of croissant, pastries, and macaron cookies -- all baked on premises.

France may seem very far away, but I am grateful that this new shop is close enough for the occasional shopping spree until I can once again break out my passport and put it to good use.

Mercí Le French Tart Deli!

Oyster Happy Hours Of Days Gone By?

Remember Oyster Happy Hours? I recall them all too fondly. I cannot tell you how much I have sorely missed inexpensive shellfish slurping and cocktailing with friends.

And just when I figured that Oyster Happy Hour wouldn't be on the rotation for a good long time, I stumbled upon a sign at the new Cardinal Mkt on Henry Street, not too far from my apartment. Was I seeing things or was this a chalkboard inviting patrons to an Oyster Happy Hour? It wasn't a mirage. It was a bonafide Oyster Happy Hour - one that was offered up in a makeshift patio out on the street, but a real deal Oyster Happy Hour nonetheless.

Dare I? I don't usually sit out front of restaurants these days. I usually keep my dining out to garden locations. But, there was no one else sitting on the patio. There wasn't much foot traffic on the street either. I dare!

One slurp and it was all sortsa like Proust's madeleine. The briny, boozy memories of Oyster Happy Hours of long ago came flooding back. Oh, yes! This was pleasure. This was joyful. This was just the fix I needed before the weather turns frigid cold and I start to want my oysters in chowder instead of on-the-half-shell.

Will I return for more? Most likely. In addition, I'm going to be getting shucking lessons soon. If we end up back in lockdown I think I had better be prepared. I will make my own Oyster Happy Hour, if need be!

A Meat & Greek

Whereas "my go-to's" used to be a stable of favorite restaurants, today it is a series of dishes and preparations that I turn to on the regular.

One of my most regular regulars? What I call "a meat and Greek." Quite simply, we're talking about a protein accompanied by a freshly-made Greek Salad. Yeah, start thinking creamy French Feta, briny Kalamata Olives, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Red Bell Pepper, Red Onion, crisp Romaine, and copious amounts of fresh Dill, topped with a bit of Red Wine Vinegar and good Olive Oil.

Put all that next to the blandest piece of Chicken and you still have a winner dinner.

I don't try to make bland anything, if I can help it.

Above is a juicy Lamb Chop, sous vide with herbs and then seared for additional flavor. Lamb and a Greek Salad? A match made in heaven! Then again, I liked my Salmon and Greek Salad the other night. And, a Grilled Pork Chop with a Greek Salad is pretty yummy too.

Now I've got you thinking about making a "meat and Greek" too, haven't I? You won't regret it.

Saying Hello to HiHi

Garden dining is great - but, still, I miss restaurants. I miss bars. I do miss the food and drink - but I what I miss most is the people. The serendipity of a conversation with the person sitting at the table or stool next to mine or the person stirring and shaking behind the bar. I have forged many a friendship in this manner. And, even the fleeting conversations and connections had over a single drink can be fortifying.

It's why a recent visit to the HiHi Room was so darn satisfying.

New York Magazine might be kvelling about their Sliders (they are really good), but I am here to shout out about much much more - mostly the people. One person in particular - their bad-ass bartender Izzy Tulloch - had me at "hi" (how apt!) when we started talking about her drink menu, going down a cocktail nerd rabbithole that led me to trying the Wail Call.

Now, I am not usually a proponent of Mezcal. Too smoky for me. And, in my experience, most cocktails using it end up tasting like a charcoal briquet. The exception to this would be drinks made by Phil Ward (damn, I miss Mayahuel!). Any which way, with Mezcal as the base spirit, I was more than a bit reticent to take a sip.

And then...Well, hello...

The Madre Mezcal gave the cocktail the subtlest edge of smoke, which was beautifully rounded out by cucumber, Aperol, citrus, and a hint of chili.

As I said, Izzy is a bad-ass and this drink is proof positive that she has gifts. Pictured up top (sans mask for the photo, which was snapped from well-over 6-feet away), she started her career in deepest, darkest New Jersey at the Park Avenue Club, but I am so glad that she now has a bar to tend in the wilds of Brooklyn. The bar itself might not be open for business, but there is imbibing going on in HiHi's garden and front patio.

That said, look forward to the day I can sidle up to the bar for a round. I think you can safely assume that I'll be ordering a Wail Call.

P.S. And, must also shout out to the HiHi kitchen's Chef Sandy, with whom I talked biscuits at length. (Yeah, the Sliders are good, but you gotta try the Fried Chicken and Biscuits!)

The Stones of Summer

I am ga-ga for stone fruit. Seriously love the stuff. When it all starts hitting the market each summer, I'm all in.

This summer has been no exception. The apricots above? Made individual Apricot Galettes for myself and some neighbors...

These plums?

I was inspired by The Amateur Gourmet himself, Adam Roberts' , who tinkered with a Marian Burros recipe and varied it up further with this Plum-Almond Torte...

And, then there are the copious amounts of cherries I can't resist...

In addition to simply gobbling them up at all hours, I also pitted a few to try a Cherry Clafoutis recipe from David Lebovitz...

And, peaches? Yeah, got these from Georgia...

And, baked up a Peach-Rye Cake recipe from pastry doyenne Zoë François...

Where are the nectarines, you wonder? I have eaten them so quick that I didn't have time to take a snapshot.

Have a few precious weeks of stone fruit season left. I've been jamming on making jam with some of it too. But, I think you can safely assume that you'll see a few more stone fruit treats appear in my Instagram feed soon.

Baby Got Back

Seeing diners flock to outdoor seating at restaurants in Brooklyn is wonderful and weird all at once. It's terrific that restaurants can start serving again. I'm glad that the city is making it possible by allowing for makeshift patios to be set in front of cafes, extending into the street.

Am I partaking?

Sort of. See that photo above of a cocktail? I enjoyed it at French Louie in Boerum Hill. But I did not sit out in front. That photos is from back - in their idyllic backyard garden.

Similarly, I paid call on Le Crocodile in Williamsburg and sat in their gorgeous patio/garden space, away from the street and close to this bottle of wine (recommended by the restaurant's ever-gracious wine director, Rafa)...

Oh, and I ate on both occasions as well. This Duck au Poivre from French Louie was incredible, perfectly seared...

And these Scallops at Le Crocodile - crudo-style - were lush and buttery, with a bright-tart, herby punch from a vinaigrette of Ginger, Parsley, and Meyer Lemon that made the dish irresistible...

Could I have enjoyed these meals in the dining area set out front? In ordinary times, sure. But, now? Too many Cov-idiots walking by. I'm all about the backyard gardens if I'm going to dine or drink out.

And with a setting like this...

...can you blame me?

P.S. If you are going out to dine, I strongly recommend tipping as much as possible!!!

The Garibaldi

Whatever you do, don't simply call this drink a Campari & OJ. Technically, in terms of ingredients, you would be correct. But, this cocktail is much more than the sum of its parts.

The recipe is from Manhattan's Dante, heralded for its Negroni expertise - so I wasn't surprised that they know their way around Campari.

The recommendation came from the owners of Durham, North Carolina bar Kingfisher during one of their virtual happy hours on IG Live. I was a bit incredulous when it was suggested - but the devil is in the details. In this case, that means proportions and technique.

Are you a bit incredulous too? Don't blame you. Check out the recipe here and let me know what you think.

Have a feeling you'll be drinking Garibaldi cocktails this summer - bristling if anyone tries to simply call it a Campari & OJ!

Variations On A Theme

We often have a tendency to gild the lily when it comes to recipes. (I've seen many a sad cookie chockablock with wayward ingredients. It's painful.) So, typically, I try to keep the integrity of a recipe in check.

But that doesn't mean that variations are verboten. Sometimes something small can make it your own. Or as Ina Garten likes to say - turn up the volume!

I recently did just that with a Brown Butter-Cinnamon Crumb Cake recipe that caught my eye. The addition of fresh blueberries...

...didn't distract from the gorgeous crumb and added a sweet, summery burst of berry flavor to the cake.

And cocktail recipes also offer a chance to tweak and adapt to your taste. Case in point: a recipe for a Straw Dog cocktail from Death & Co, which called for a fresh strawberry and Scotch, among other ingredients. I had neither at hand. (Also, to be honest, I don't really care for the peaty taste of Scotch.) But, then I found a variation that appealed...

...a spin on the recipe, found on Food52...

It substituted the strawberry for a slice of ripe peach and the Scotch for Bourbon.

Oh, hellz-to-the-yes! This drink is freaking brilliant!

Soon, I'll be at it again - adapting the classic Negroni by switching out Campari for Forthave Spirits Red. Will it be delicious? Will I need to stir up a second drink with Campari to compare-and-contrast? All quite possible.

But, no gilding the lily here. Variations are one thing. Lilies belong in gardens and occasionally in vases. No gilding necessary.