VittlesVamp

Off-Site Down East

That is quite the view, huh? Pretty idyllic?

What could possibly make this vista off of the coast of Maine even more picturesque? Hmmm...

Yowsa! And, this fine readers, was the first meal of a company off-site in Maine. This perfect scene - and glorious Lobster Roll - was had at the Bite Into Maine food truck in Cape Elizabeth's Fort Williams Park, a stone's throw from our final destination of Portland.

Was more seafood part of the weeklong stay? Hellz-to-the-yes!

Think briny oysters, tasting like the saltwater from whence they came...

Think beer too, with Portland chock full of breweries making funky farmhouse ales and saisons and sours aplenty. Of course there was work to be done, so beer wasn't a daytime thing. But, even more seafood was had at all hours, whenever available. Case in point...

...Deviled Eggs with House Smoked Mussels served during a working lunch at Terlingua.

To be honest, nothing ever really topped that first Lobster Roll.

That said, I strongly believe we didn't hit enough seafood spots in and around Portland to be sure that there isn't a better shellfish option in town.

Clearly, will need another off-site Down East very, very soon. My work there is far from done!

Montreal Off The Map

I am a planner - especially when it comes to travel. No, I'm not scheduling my days when I am traveling. I just like to be prepared. Very prepared.

I make maps - Google Maps to be precise. Months before a trip I start researching everything from top restaurants to Mom & Pop shops to art galleries to local coffee spots to the closest emergency care, and lay them all on a map of the area. It is my way of learning about a place, sort of kicking off a trip, before I get my feet firmly planted there. And, yes, I do make a few plans off of my maps - mostly restaurant reservations. (Shocker!)

Needless to say, a long weekend with a friend in Montreal called for a map and reservations. That said, we thought we'd get there Thursday night and simply grab dinner at our hotel.

We needed to think again.

Stepping into the hotel lobby, our ears were accosted with thundering THUMPA-THUMPA electronica coming from the restaurant and bar. It was a scene. Way too loud and way too much.

I quickly tried to consider other options on the map, realizing that the restaurants I'd identified were probably fully booked. Suddenly, I remembered a spot that had sounded interested, but hadn't made it onto the map. Why? It was Italian. Why travel to Quebec for Italian? Still, the restaurant had sounded fun - and adult. No THUMPA-THUMPA. I asked the concierge (in a louder than usual conversation to be heard above the din) and he agreed that it was a good pick. He made a reservation for us.

The restaurant was called Gia Vin & Grill. It was off-the-beaten path, off to the side by a Home Depot. Getting out of the car in the fairly desolate area, I questioned the choice. One step inside though, and I questioned no longer. It was a fantastically warm and bustling warehouse space. The elegant marble bar at the entrance had a long rectangular well filled with ice and bottles of wine, natural wine. We sidled up as we waited for our table and within minutes we were talking to Larry Fiset, sommelier and partner, who not only directed us to some incredible wine, but also made sure we would be ordering the "must-haves" on the menu. When conversation turned to the culinary world at-large, I mentioned by podcast, interviewing cookbook authors. Larry's eyes lit up. I had to meet another of Gia's owners, Ryan Gray - who just happened to be having a book hitting shelves in a few weeks. Greetings were had, a podcast interview was discussed, conversation continued to flow and so did the wine.

Then we were taken to our table and the "must haves" began to show up...

It was the end of Snow Crab season in Quebec. This was unlike any kind of sweet meat crab I have ever had the privilege of eating. Heaven. Crustacean heaven.

The rest of the meal was just as brilliant - from Morel Mushrooms and Peas in a rich Spring Broth to Tagliatelle with Veal Bolognese.

People need to start visiting Quebec for the Italian food!

And, then Larry sat down with us. Where else were we planning to dine when we were in town? He approved of one pick, but less the other - and insisted that we let him text a friend at a restaurant we needed to try. It is a small spot, but he would try to wrangle us a reservation. Minutes later he returned with a wide smile, letting us know that we had a 9pm reservation on Saturday at Salle Climatisée. We smiled wide in return. In truth, I think we were smiling wide throughout dinner and even on the drive back to the hotel.

On Saturday we headed into the restaurant and were struck by the compact dining room, low-key vibe and warm welcome from the owner-sommelier that Larry had connected us with. We were seated at the counter overlooking the minuscule kitchen with chefs working like consummate jugglers, making the space work for them as they sauteed, fried, seared, and plated.

Yay! Dinner and a show!

And, then there was the wine. Such good wine. A white from Umbria - Collecapretta Buscaia - was particularly gorgeous, combining citrus with a floral nose and a brackish finish. It was a great accompaniment to the market-driven fare that followed...

Oh, yes! Local Halibut with an Herb-Pernod Sauce and delicately smoked New Potatoes.

Let me say yes again - this time for the Chicken...

This beauty was served with Morels and Radishes.

Dessert was a Sticky Pudding that had us humming with pleasure as we exited - so damn glad for the hotel lobby's obnoxious THUMPA-THUMPA and where it led us.

So, have I decided to skip the whole Google Maps rigamarole for future travels? Nope. But, I will be looking forward to going off-map to see what adventures and tastes await.

Flexing My Dinner Party Skills

Ever since I came home from Rome, my kitchen has been busy. As I mentioned in my earlier post, Passover seder dinner was made -- and had with gusto. (Damn, that was some tasty Brisket!) But, I didn't stop there. Not even close.

There was the Scandinavian dinner, for which I made a soup that I first had in Copenhagen as a teen - a rich cream soup studded with mussels called Billi Bi. Sounds like a piece of Ikea furniture, right? Did some research to discover that it is a French soup. Decided it didn't matter, and made it for the party nonetheless. Also infused some Aquavit with strawberries for an opening cocktail with Prosecco to give it some light fizz.

Then there was a weeknight Roast Chicken with Caramelized Onions dinner, complete with Frisee Salad and baguette with softened French butter. And then leftover chicken turned into the star of a Composed Salad dinner with yet another friend.

Only a few days later, I had a couple of other friends at the table for a dinner that began with a recipe out of the Via Carota cookbook - Butternut Squash with Red Onions and Currants. Served room temperature, this dish is lush and comforting all at once, with a hit of sweet and sour vinegar and shower of toasted pine nuts. (The latter happened after I snapped the photo above.) The main was Chicken with Trumpet Mushrooms and Wine, which was followed up by a fragrant Almond Cake with Raspberries.

Was I done for a while after that one? Heck, no!

Let's think brunch. In this case, made a Tre Colori Salad to start things off slow before heading into a Rigatoni with a White Ragu, made with stewed beef, carrots, celery, onions, and wine. Dessert was homemade Strawberry and Balsamic Ripple Ice Cream.

Then I hosted a dinner that brought me back to Mama Vamp's table when I was a kid -- making her Corned Beef. Served it up with a dish of Red Cabbage with Apples. Those were the central players in a dinner that started with a Tortilla Español with Creme Fraiche and Caviar. Dessert was a refreshing homemade Tangerine Sorbet.

And, I kept going...

This past Wednesday had some pals over for a dinner of Sheet-pan Chicken with Chickpeas, Cumin, and Turmeric. Scooped out homemade Mango Ice Cream and topped it with Raspberries doused in Orange Flower Water to cap it off with something sweet.

Am I cooked out?

I would think so.

And, yet I keep proving myself wrong. A trip to a market today and I was eyeballing cuts of pork and thinking about what I could whip up...

Well, better get some invites out soon. And, y'all better come hungry!

The Sandwich That Inspired A Seder

I wasn't thinking about the 10 Commandments when I was in Rome last month. I wasn't even contemplating a Passover seder. But there was a sandwich that I had at Testaccio Market that stuck with me -- and made me want to make a soul-satisfying Beef Brisket when I got back to Brooklyn.

The sandwich in question was from the much-lauded Mordi e Vai. Guiliano Esposito, one of the family-owned stall's street food stars, poses above. A photo of his father is directly behind -- retired butcher Sergio Esposito.

The butchery cred is key. Here, the meat is everything. In particular, the Allesso di Scottona (aka simmered Brisket). Utter simplicity. Meat and bread. It was glorious...

And, so returning from Rome, when I started toying with the idea of bringing friends together to share in my Maxwell House Haggadahs and bowls brimming with homemade Matzoh Ball Soup, I knew Brisket was going to be the main.

A gorgeous slab of beefy beauty, slow baked in a Dutch Oven for 4 hours is currently sitting in my fridge -- because Brisket is always better a couple of days later.

I can't wait to dive in. I am resisting grabbing a slice for a snack. That said, I expect that denying myself will pay off on two fronnts. First, there will be plenty on hand for a fantastic repast tomorrow after we do a bit of seder-ing. Second, there will be enough leftover meat to make for an Allesso di Scottana sandwich on this side of the Atlantic.

May my Pesach wishes come true!

Artichoke Amore in Rome

Technically, it was still winter when I arrived in Rome, but the bright blue sky and budding trees seemed to argue with Mother Nature -- and so did the produce on display. Stalls were brimming with springtime goodness, from strawberries to asparagus to Rome's most beloved vegetable -- the artichoke.

Adore the snapshot above, taken during a tour of Testaccio Market. Isn't she lovely? Take a long lingering look at her.

Now, take a look at the artichoke in abundance...

Talk about abbondanza! Carciofi were piled high throughout the market and they appeared on every trattoria and ristorante menu I encountered.

Coratella Con Carciofi by that bar at Tram Tram in the bohemian San Lorenzo district? Yes, please...

Carciofi alla Giudia at the elegant il Marchese? Absolutely...

If a man wants to win my heart, bring me a full-on bouquet of these beauties. I'd call that romance Roman-style.

Artichoke amore.

Carciofi carnalità.

It's real. It's wonderful. And, it's best enjoyed in Roma.

Vittles in Venice

When I have dreamt of Venice, I've imagined venturing through alleyways and over bridges, taking in the romance and beauty of the city's canals. I have also thought of great art and the majesty (and many pigeons) of St. Mark's Square.

But, beyond a fizzy glass of Prosecco from the Veneto, I haven't had a specific Venetian culinary craving in mind.

That was a mistake. One that has been rectified.

I have one word for you: cicchetti.

It is a word doesn't describe a single dish. It describes a veritable smorgasbord of them. We're talking about Venetian tapas.

Think thick slices of toasted bread topped with delights that range from sweet-and-sour Sardine en Saor to thinly sliced Mortadella dotted with pistachios to mounds of White Anchovies to aged Sopressa salami with pickled Cipolline Onions. And, then lets add in some fried meatballs called Polpette, and Creamed Baccala on Polenta, Hard-Boiled Eggs halved and skewered with Roasted Plum Tomatoes and Basil.

Bear witness to a typical cicchetti spread at a neighborhood Venetian wine bar...

This was the selection at a spot called Ostaria Al Ponte in Cannaregio. Impressive display - and not expensive. Quite the combo! Order up a plateful of these snacks, add a glass of the aforementioned Prosecco, and call it dinner. A very good dinner at that!

Now, of course I couldn't resist hitting somewhere a bit more grand. And a grand time was exactly what I got at a local Michelin-starred restaurant called Local. Walking in the restaurant door, the kitchen was immediately on full display behind a wall of glass -- and the very handsome kitchen staff was on full display too, more than happy to wave and smile as I walked in with a friend for dinner.

For a Michelin-starred restaurant, there wasn't a whiff of pretension in the dining room. It was warm, airy and welcoming.

Yes. This was a great choice. We settled in, chatted with both the charming owner Benedetta and the sommelier Manuel and knew we were in very capable hands.

What followed was a tasting menu with wine pairings that was - in a word - stellar. The standout dish? Risotto with Smoked Butter, Eel, and Herring Caviar...

The meal was capped off with a tray of elixirs that I feared was burn-your-throat Grappa...

...but instead were bottles of Capovilla Fruit Distillations, all of which we were invited to nose before settling on a glass each - apricot for me and elderflower for my dinner companion.

No breakfast, lunch or dinner came close to topping our evening at Local.

That said, stopping for gelato at Suso...

...and a morning Macchiato standing at a coffee bar next to a few Gondoliers were memorable to say the least. Grocery shopping at the Rialto Market was a highlight as well.

But as soon as I was settling in to Venezia, Rome beckoned. Who was I to resist?

Listen Up! Podcast Chat with Gesine Bullock-Prado, Author of 'My Vermont Table'

A friend convinced me to start hosting monthly podcasts on New Book Network in their Food Channel. In truth, she didn't need to convince me that hard. Or, actually, at all.

Know the author of a recent cookbook on food/drink-related tome? Send them my way. I can't wait to chat them up!

My first cookbook author interview is with Gesine Bullock-Prado and we talk about her latest title, "My Vermont Table." Hope you can check it out: https://newbooksnetwork.com/a-vermont-table

Haute Indian Winter in Brooklyn

After my trip to London, I couldn't stop thinking about the superlative Indian restaurants I visited there. I needed a replay - but London is far. And, the high-end Indian spots in NYC are so popular that it is hard to score a table. So, I needed to put the matter in my own hands. Well, my hands and my pal Brett's hands as well.

We started with the above - a brunch of Bombay Scrambled Eggs from the late great Chef FLoyd Cardoz, and Curried Potatoes and Cashews, a riff on a Madhur Jaffrey recipe.

It wasn't just good. It was delicious.

A dinner party idea was born. And so it was...

That plate of Dal? It was in-freakin-credible. Brett outdid himself.

Next up, an Indian Chicken Rice Pilaf scented with coconut milk, ginger, tumeric, and more. Alongside, an umami-packed Oyster Mushroom Curry.

And then there was dessert...

Hell-to-the-yes! Tejal Rao's Quick Mango Kulfi recipe is pure genius. The trick? Canned mangos from India. Seriously. Canned. Soooo good.

Do I still want to return to London's haute Indian restaurant scene? Do I want to nab a reservation at Sona and Semma in Manhattan? Yes and yes! But in the meantime, I am trying my best to get Brooklyn to deliver as best as my kitchen (and Brett's) can muster.

Chocolate Shortbread

Ted Lasso has given us all shortbread envy. While we await the third season, thought it was high time to come up with my own shortbread recipe.

Didn't even want to try to replicate the shortbread that Ted brings Rebecca for his daily "Biscuits with the Boss" sessions. That would be a reach. Instead, I decided to make a rich, slightly salty chocolate shortbread studded with bits of dark chocolate. I use two different kinds of cocoa to lend a little more complexity to the chocolate character of the biscuits.

Three of these delectable chocolate shortbread cookies are pictured above with a few tender slivers of candied orange peel. I recommend the combination! And, a bit of Dry Orange Curacao to go with wouldn't be a bad idea either, if I do say so myself!

Chocolate Shortbread

2 cups all-purpose flour
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder (I use Hershey's)
1 tablespoon unsweetened red Dutch-processed cocoa powder (I use Guittard Cocoa Rouge)
1 1/8 teaspoon Kosher salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted cold butter, cut into 1-inch chunks
1/3 cup dark chocolate chips or 2 oz dark chocolate chopped

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place flour, sugar, both cocoa powders, and salt into a food processor and pulse. Add butter and chocolate and pulse to fine crumbs. Pulse a few more times until some crumbs start to come together, but don't overprocess. Dough should not be smooth. Press dough into an ungreased 8- or 9-inch-square baking pan. Bake 35 minutes for 9-inch pan, 45 minutes for 8-inch. Cool completely in the pan and then gently turn over the pan on top of a cutting board to release. Cut into bars.

Coffee Talk

While Mike Myers' SNL coffee klatsch character Linda Richman has a special place in my heart, there is a real world version that gets my entire neighborhood verklempt - or at the very least, gets Brooklyn Heights' intelligensia to line up.

There is a slip of a coffee shop in the Clark Street 2/3 subway arcade that is attracting coffee lovers who are also seeking some mental stimulation. The tiny stand - a branch of Drip - is often manned by a barista named Andy (pictured above) who seems to spark the cerebral in locals, whether he is making a pour-over or pulling an espresso shot.

I recently stopped by for a latte, just as Andy was wrapping up a discussion about Hegel with a customer who is getting a PhD in Philosophy. Didn't need to glom onto the chat about Hegel, but I did have a hankering to learn about how these types of conversations start in the moments between placing an order and getting your morning or afternoon brew. I asked him about some of his most interesting chats behind the bar - the coffee bar that is.

The most interesting?

Well, there was the fascinating Bangladeshi Jewish Zionist who shared thoughts on Central Asia and Middle Eastern politics, Afghanistan, Palestine, and more. Then there was the local celebrity that kicked off a deep discussion about self-actualization. And, there was the fintech executive that debated the merits of digital currencies.

Let's not forget about all of the neighbors who notice that Andy has squirreled away a paperback at the back of the stall for when it gets slow - one of Robert Caro's tomes on LBJ - and then want to talk U.S. history and the lore of Camelot - or simply go down a bookworm rabbithole while sipping on a cortado.

Andy says that knowing a little about a lot has been a big help in propelling highly-engaged discussion. While his college years were focused on biology and microbiology, he sees himself as a generalist: "I think Gladwell talks about this 'being general' stuff as being quite beneficial as a society, because then you can talk about several different things and people [admire that you have a level of] competency."

He recognizes that intellectual conversation can been seen as a valuable commodity these days, especially in a world where "most people want to talk about the Kardashians."

Moreover, he is genuinely delighted to have these sorts of exchanges - dialogue that is reminiscent of the rhetoric that we all imagined we'd have at that perfect coffee shop just off of the college green.

Well, the Clark Street subway stop isn't anywhere near a college green, but there is educational housing located right above. And, between the dorm, the aroma of espresso, and Andy, I may be able to make out a bit of college green in the not-too-far-off distance.

Tis The Season To Be Cooking

No one will be surprised, but I have been cooking for a crowd as of late. Many dinner parties at my table this season. Frankly, just the fact that I can gather friends at my table is reason enough to celebrate!

Some of the menus? Happy to share...

First up was a post-Thankgiving fêtê which started with Oysters from my pals David and Catherine, who shucked with glee, while I shook up cocktails. At the table, the first course was a Dayboat Lemon Sole Crudo with Fresh Chives and Toasted Pinenuts. That was followed by two lovely Buttermilk-Brined Chickens with Thyme under the skin, roasted atop slabs of Sweet Vidalia Onion. The glorious birds were served with a Chicory Salad in a Champagne-Shallot Vinaigrette, sliced Baguette from L'Appartement 4F, and softened French butter.

Dessert? So glad you asked...

--Lowcountry Peanut Pie - from a recipe in Garden & Gun - topped with fresh Whipped Cream.

The next dinner party was a collaboration with my friends Wendy and Mark - a Sicilian dinner. After some antipasti during cocktail hour, the two served up a Seafood Salad with Celery and Fennel. Then came a pasta course from yours truly - Rigatoni alla Norma...

...pasta tossed in a spicy tomato sauce with chunks of eggplant, oodles of fresh basil and a shower of shaved ricotta salata. My recipe combined one from Chef Sara Jenkins and some ideas from an article about this mainstay Italian dish in The Guardian.

This pasta elicited some serious oohs and aahs.

And, then there was dessert - a collaborative dessert. We made a Deconstructed Cannoli: scoops of my Ricotta Sorbet, each bowl graced with a sprinkle of chocolate flakes, crushed pistachio, chopped Luxardo cherries, and a glorious Vanilla Pizzelle Cookie from Wendy and Mark's kitchen. The cookie was joyfully plunked in the middle to resemble "Cosmo's Moon."

The following week, I went in a different direction - a distinctly New Orleans direction. I whipped up a Cajun/Creole feast for friends. It started with Shrimp Ravigote over Wedges of Iceberg. We then moved onto to steaming bowls of Chicken and Andouille Gumbo, with a smattering of heat from the combination of cayenne and Crystal.

It was lovely, but dessert was the real showstopper...

--Almond Croissant Bread Pudding, served warm.

Did I have one more dinner party in me before Christmas came barreling by?

Why, yes. And, it was quite the festive repast, if I do say so myself!

Jumbo sous-vided Shrimp Cocktail grabbed the spotlight during the cocktail hour. Seated, the spotlight moved over to a Wild Salmon Tartare...

...the gorgeous Toro-grade fish from Shipwreck Seafood Boutique and the recipe from Ottolenghi. Bite-sized chunks of glistening salmon were tossed with lemon, olive oil and shallots, topped with tarragon and chopped pistachio, and drizzled with brown butter with cumin seeds, served with wafer-thin slices of watermelon radish.

Oh, hell, yes!

The main was a Roast Pork Loin with Wild Fennel Pollen and a homemade Apple Chutney. Alongside, there was a Bitter Lettuce Salad and my go-to marriage of 4F Baguette with French butter.

Dessert was low-key - individual Chocolate Soufflés with Pistachio Gelato.

Jealous? Want to angle for an invite to my next get-together? Smart idea.

Meanwhile though, sharing my recipe for Rigatoni alla Norma, so you can taste a bit of Chez Vamp at your own table.

Rigatoni alla Norma

2 medium eggplants, cut into 3/4″ cubes
4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, minced
3/4 tsp. crushed red chile flakes
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 (28-oz.) can whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes, undrained and crushed by hand
1 lb. rigatoni
4 oz. ricotta salata, grated
1 cup fresh basil leaves, torn by hand
Kosher salt & black pepper

Sprinkle eggplant with salt (about 2 tsps.) and let sit in a colander for a half-hour. Squeeze out excess liquid out of the cubes with a dishtowel.

Set oven to 450 degrees. Put eggplant into a bowl and drizzle with 3 tbsp. oil. Toss to combine and season with salt and pepper. Transfer eggplant to 2 baking sheets and bake, turning occasionally, until soft and caramelized (about 20 minutes). Put aside.

Heat remaining oil in a large pot and saute onion until soft over a medium flame and then add garlic and chile flakes. Stir another 3 minutes and then add the tomatoes, crushing them a bit as they hit the pot. Add half the basil. Add salt and black pepper to taste. Cook down for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, boil rigatoni to al dente, following the manufacturer's instructions. Save a little of the starchy water if needed to help bind the sauce. Strain the pasta and toss into the tomato sauce along with the eggplant. Stir to combine.

Serve topped with the remaining fresh basil and the ricotta salata.

Haute Indian Fall In London

I went to London. Yes, I had a pint at a pub. I also experienced a swanky rendition of high tea. But, the real culinary treat was the incredible upscale Indian fare.

I was staying in Marylebone, so I did pop into Chiltern Firehouse for a cocktail (or two) before my first gourmet Indian supper. Cocktails were grand. The scene was grander. Yet, I was quite content to wander a few blocks away to the Michelin-starred Trishna. The menu was overwhelming. I decided to go for the tasting to try a range of the offerings. A gorgeous tray of Papads with three Chutneys was first up (pictured above) and considering how I devoured this Indian version of "chips and dips," I knew I'd made the right call.

A dish of Kerala Prawn Curry was a particular favorite of the evening, stewed with tamarind and coconut...

And then Dev Patel walked in.

He was just as striking as the food - maybe more so. OK, definitely more so. The rest of the night is a happy blur.

Clearly, I was going to need to go out for high-end Indian again, before I left London. For my next excursion, I visited Pahli Hill, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand nod. This time, no Dev Patel. But, the evening was lovely nonetheless. Standout dish? Most definitely the Papati Chat...

...a glorious plate of crispies with yogurt, tomato, tamarind, Delicata squash, mint and pomegranate seeds.

Now, I have had some great Indian food in the States - in NJ in particular - but nothing that has ever reached the stellar heights of haute Indian in London. If you've found somewhere that could compete on that score, please drop me a line! I am so in!