VittlesVamp

The Other Other White Meat - Alligator

I've always considered myself an adventurous eater, but my dinner at The Explorers Club Annual Gala took my epicurean exploits to a whole other level. The evening opened up my palate to scorpions, goat brains, meal worms, maggots and other exotic nibbles. Truthfully though, it was the alligator that caught my eye and my taste buds.

I was a doubter at first, but I have to say that the alligators, pictured above in their 7-foot long glory, were downright delicious. Sort of a cross between eel and - you guessed it - chicken.

Keeping the gator momentum in play, a couple weeks back I was in Florida to visit Papa Vamp and spied some live alligators sunning themselves on nearby golf course.

Before I'd eaten one of those suckers, the sight of them would have made me dream of shoes and handbags. Now, I was simply thinking of dinner.

And, today I'm in New Orleans with Mama Vamp for a few days of food, drink and jazz -- and quite possibly, alligator. I have a reservation at Cochon for lunch later and I have to say that the kitchen's Fried Alligator with Chili Garlic Mayonnaise sounds awfully tempting.

Then again, I bet they could Cajun-up some maggots and they'd sound awfully tempting as well.

Then again, maybe not.

I'll stick with the alligator.

My Go-To's: Jack The Horse Tavern

Everyone wants to have a "place where everybody knows your name" in their nabe. I'm lucky enough to claim Jack the Horse Tavern as mine. A rustic, decidedly not-hip restaurant in North Brooklyn Heights, JtH offers a comfortable attitude, solid -- sometimes seriously inspired -- fare, and a bar program that makes the cocktail nerd in me smile.

Evidence of the latter is pictured above: a riff on the New Orleans classic known as the Pimm's Cup, except this one includes a bit of marmalade and a generous topping of Prosecco.

Speaking of New Orleans, head bartender Matt is formerly of Commander's Palace. Steve, the other mixologist behind the bar, was trained at James Beard Award-nominated Maison Premiere, the NOLA-influenced absinthe bar where Maxwell Britten mans the cocktail program. And, what could be more appropriate than that? Loyal readers may recall that I gave Britten his first media spotlight way back when -- when he was behind the bar at Jack the Horse Tavern himself.

And, now a moment for the food.

First off, a special shout out to Chef Tim Oltmans for his genius Macaroni & Cheese, served only as an appetizer, because it is too rich to possibly serve in larger portions without a cardiac specialist nearby. Other standbys that I adore? His gorgeously juicy Roasted Free-Range Half Chicken with Garlic Chive Potato Puree and Roasted Cauliflower, and the Grilled Berkshire Pork Chop with Mustard Spaetzle, Braised Red Cabbage and Roasted Apples.

Should I even mention brunch? Think not. Would prefer to keep that to myself (and the crowds that line up for JtH's Big Brioche French Toast, Shrimp & Grits, Eggs Orleans, and a side of Bacon, Bacon, Bacon!!!)

I must also send out special kudos to JtH front-of-the-house manager Ryan, who keeps everything moving so beautifully that there is nary a hiccup in sight. Besides, if a hiccup did present itself, he'd know just the potent drink or two to order you from the bar to set things to right.

So, what makes a "Go-To" even better in my book? A bit of careful expansion. Word is that JtH will be opening up a wee annex next door with -- drumroll please -- a raw bar. I for one look forward to sidling up to that bar. And, until then, sidle I will at JtH proper.

Why Isn't Chicken Paprikash The Must-Have Dish On Every Menu In NYC?

I'm serious here. When is the last time you had Chicken Paprikash? Done correctly, made with real Hungarian Paprika and a lot of love (not to mention sour cream), it is a killer dish.

Made it recently for an Austrian-German-Hungarian feast at Chez Vamp with kudos all around. Served it with piping hot Spaetzle and a cool German Cucumber Salad. Perfect Tyrolean winter fare. (And lederhosen aside, I have to say that the mountains of dirty frozen snow in Brooklyn as of late have required Alpine hiking rigor.)

Need proof that Chicken Paprikash can take on the likes of NYC menu standards like Chicken Pot Pie or Shrimp and Grits? Try my recipe below and taste for yourself.

Chicken Paprikash

1 chicken (3 - 4 lbs) cut into ten pieces (I cut the breasts in half)
1/2 cup plus 2 TBSP flour
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/4 cup canola oil
1 lg onion minced
1 1/2 cloves garlic minced
1 TBSP Sweet Hungarian Paprika
2 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
1/2 Italian frying pepper (aka cubanelle pepper), diced
1 TBSP tomato paste
1 1/2 cup chicken broth
3/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup Italian parsley, finely chopped

Mix 1/2 cup flour with salt and pepper, and dredge chicken pieces in the mixture, shaking off excess flour. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, adding chicken a few pieces at a time, turning once to allow for browning on each side. Put chicken aside. Add onion, garlic, paprika, peppers and tomatoes, stirring until soft, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste, stirring for another minute until incorporated. Pour in chicken broth and stir before placing chicken pieces back into the Dutch oven. Cover and allow to cook on medium heat for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, mix together sour cream with remaining 2 TBSP flour. Mix into the chicken and sauce. Allow to cook for another 3 -4 minutes. Sprinkle parsley on top before serving.

My Go-To's: Buvette

Thought it was time to break out a few posts about my standbys -- the spots with great food and drink that have yet to fail me; a guide to the restaurants that I turn to time and time again. First up, a heavenly slice of a French cafe known as Buvette. Chef Jody Williams created a charming, almost giddy scene, when she opened the doors to this West Village enclave on Grove Street. Streaming with sunlight, the room beckons you inside.

The only hitch? Sometimes you'll have to wait for a table or bar stool. Not a problem in my opinion. Especially when you see that democracy is most definitely in play. (Once stood outside on an early summer evening alongside Jake Gyllenhaal, who also waited a half-hour for a seat.)

Admittedly, I find myself hitting Buvette at off-hours to avoid a wait. If I plan correctly, I can immediately sidle up to the bar or grab a table, order a glass of wine or a bracing espresso and joyfully snack on the restaurant's series of ambitious small plates.

If I'm in a breakfast mood, a flaky, butter-rich Croissant with tart raspberry jam might do the trick, or perhaps perfectly scrambled eggs prepared with the steam from a cappuccino frother. Top the eggs with paper-thin slivers of shaved Proscuitto of slices of Smoked Salmon and it's quite the substantial morning or brunch-time meal. If my cravings are of the lunch or dinner variety, I often end up ordering Williams' ethereal Brandade De Morue and slather thick slices of toast with this addictive house-cured salt cod spread. Sometimes, I'll simply get a hunk of the Country Pate, served up with mouth-puckering cornichons and a few meaty olives, and compliment it with a plate of wilted leeks in a mustardy vinaigrette. Too ravenous for something along those lines? I'll go straight for a "tartinette" graced with salted butter and anchovies, followed by the hearty comfort of Coq au Vin or Cassoulet.

And, no meal at Buvette is complete without dessert. Seriously. Forgo these sweets at your own peril: an exquisite caramelized wedge of Apple Tarte Tartin with a dollop of Creme Fraiche, or a scoop of miraculously dense, ever-so-slightly bitter Chocolate Mousse. Either way, you cannot go wrong.

I've been a die-hard fan of Chef Williams since she was at Gottino, and with Buvette going strong now with branches in both New York and Paris, I expect to enjoy her hospitality and brilliance in the kitchen for years to come. And, I wouldn't be surprised if I end up purchasing her upcoming Buvette cookbook this April too. A little Buvette at Chez Vamp might be a very good thing indeed.

The Southern Fish Shack of My Dreams

Never had I thought that a takeout fish spot, two hours from the closest beach, could bring me such unmitigated culinary pleasure. But damned if Durham, North Carolina's Saltbox Seafood Joint doesn't serve up some of the most freakin' delicious seafood on the planet. Almost want to jump on a plane right now to head back to this wee shack and order up the entire chalkboard menu.

Now that I think about it, I wish I had ordered the entire bill of fare while I was at the joint's takeout window in the first place. (So foolish of me not to do so!) Still, my pal Mr. L and I were more than satisfied with the two hefty sandwiches we tried. Both served on fluffy white, butter-toasted rolls, topped with a vinegary slaw and a drizzle of housemade tartare, Mr. L opted for his filled with freshly grilled dogfish, while I went for fried oysters...

Crisp and well-seasoned, these oysters held creamy, sweet, meaty centers that practically melted on the tongue.

So. Damn. Good.

I don't think I can ever look at a bare-bones shack again without my mouthwatering and my eyes rolling back in my head for the memory of that genius sandwich. And, if I didn't know better, I think I get a whiff of the ocean and sense a little sand between my toes as I remember that miraculous first bite.

Happy Tiki Birthday To Me

Did you think it was possible to close out the year without mention of my birthday festivities? At this point, birthday blogging is as much of a tradition as blowing out the candles. And, as bdays go, I will say that this was a blowout year.

Highlights included:

*Plump Shrimp Dumplings and Sticky Rice in Lotus Leaf at Chinatown's flashy dim summery Red Egg

*A miracle of a Slow-Braised Lamb Shank at Astoria's upscale Greek hot spot MP Taverna

*Oatmeal Cookie Ice Cream, happily downed in the middle of a snowstorm at Oddfellow's in Williamsburg

*A plate of Zizi Limona's perfectly-fried Falafel Balls, balanced atop Pickled Cabbage and Charred Onion, then drizzled with Curried Yogurt

*Bowls of al dente pasta followed by dense Lemon Olive Oil Cake at the East Village's Porsena

Sounds terrific, right? But the coupe de grace was a road trip to Staten Island with my pals Jim and Max.

Yes. You read correctly. Staten Island. Why are you surprised? I've written about this much-maligned outerborough before.

This trip was different though. Food wasn't set in our Staten Island sites. We were after pleasures of another sort. The kind that came in carved out coconuts or Hawaiian surfer girl glasses, with large spears of brightly colored fruit, dangling orchid flowers and paper umbrellas.

We ventured to Staten Island for the Polynesian cocktails, preferably accompanied by plenty of 1970's kitsch and old men remembering the good old days when disco ruled and leisure suits were the height of fashion.

Arriving at the strip mall classic Jade Island, we knew we'd come to the right place. Scorpions, Navy Grog and Zombies were on the menu, the lighting was decidedly day-glo, Tiki gods lined the walls and AARP members were lined up at the bar. Yowsa!

Several potent Polynesian favorites were had as we kibbitzed with the regulars, but the libation of the night arrived in a hollowed pineapple with two kinds of rum and three straws...

Oh. Heck. Yeah! Happy freakin' Tiki birthday to me! Who needs the Big Island when you have the Isle of Staten?

Now the question is: How do we top that field trip when it comes to next year's birthday? Luckily, Jim and Max have some time to think about it...

Cookie! Cookie! Cookie! Cookie! Cookie!

'Tis the season. Time for cookies to come out of the oven and take center stage.

And, take center stage they did at my pal Max's cookie swap last night. His dining room table was brimming with cookies by the dozen, a mind-boggling array of freshly baked treats.

My fave? I had two. First up, savory buttery coins dotted with briny black olive bits. Hoping that this is the recipe, so I can make them at home. My second pick was actually my own cookies. A tad full of myself? Perhaps, but my Crunchy Jumble cookies won plenty of kudos from other party guests.

A classic from my childhood, this cookie marries the traditional chocolate chipper to the snap, crackle and pop of Rice Krispies. They are all at once light and buttery and remarkably crisp, studded with chocolate for good measure.

I'd say that I'd make them for next year's cookie swap, but the truth is that I don't want to swap them at all!

Crunchy Jumbles

1 1/4 cup flour
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
1 stick butter (room temperature)
1 cup sugar
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla
2 cups Rice Krispies
1 cup chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Combine flour, baking soda and salt. In a separate large bowl combine butter and sugar. Add egg and vanilla to butter mixture. Incorporate flour mixture one-third at a time until well mixed. Add cereal and chips. Drop by rounded tablespoon on cookie sheets with parchment paper. Bake 15 minutes. Makes 30 - 36 cookies.

The Traditional Thanksgivukkah Meal With All The Trimmings

There was no way in hell that I was letting a "once in 125 years" opportunity slip by without a nod, or in this case, a wink. My first course on T-Day paid heed indeed. And it was freakin' delicious.

I riffed on my previous Thanksgiving riff on nachos: topping low-salt potato chips with a dollop of creme fraiche, a generous spoon of caviar, and then a shower wof freshly snipped chives. This year, my variation ixnayed the chips and substituted them with silver dollar-sized latkes. A brilliant Judaic modification on an already bizarre, decadent twist on a Mexican-American favorite. All-in-all a perfect way to start the holiday feast, especially when followed by this Thanksgivukkah classic...

...served with the obligatory cocktail and remoulade sauces for dipping.

I only wish I could have had a menorah constructed out of bacon as the dinner's centerpiece. Well, maybe next year. (Or, at the very least, maybe in another 125 years.)

Don't Dis The Raisin

It's time to stand up for the wee raisin. All too often, baked goods are passed over when someone learns that they are dotted with raisins instead of chocolate chips or nuts. It's a real shame.

A prime example: The burnished and buttery Raisin Danish featured above was had at Maison Kayser in the Flatiron District. It was a beauty, studded with plump golden raisins. Wholly satisfying.

I think the real trick with raisins is in the plumping. Don't simply toss them into a recipe without giving them the love they need in advance. Let them steep in hot water or, better yet, some heated rum, bourbon or vino. Once they are ever-so-slightly reconstituted, they offer a sweet luscious addition to cakes, pies, muffins and more.

And, if you really can't bear to give raisins the old college try, maybe you should attempt to embrace their kissing cousin: the dried currant. These tiny morsels, also in need of a bit of rehydrating affection, aren't just ideal for scones, but play well in savory dishes too. In fact, I'm planning a Thanksgiving stuffing that includes these tart berries alongside sourdough bread, scallions, garlic and toasted pine nuts.

I don't know how many readers I'll really convince with this missive. But, I can assure you that you are missing out if you choose to reject the glory of the raisin.

Well, guess that leaves more Raisin Danish, Raisin Oatmeal Cookies, Currant Scones, and alike for me. And, I'll probably get to actually have some T-day stuffing leftovers for a change too!

I Missed My 10th Anniversary

I missed it. Missed it by a long-shot. VittlesVamp's 10th anniversary was September 17th. Today is November 9th. Think I'm going to have to make this up to myself big time.

At least I took the opportunity - albeit a belated one - to flashback to 2003. Couldn't help but smirk at the very first post, which detailed my quest to find frozen yogurt that tasted like yogurt; you know, with that authentic "yogurty" tart flavor.

Flashforward to 2013 to see ubiquitous Pinkberry and Red Mango outposts at-the-ready to fill that FroYo craving.

Was it all due to VittlesVamp's incredible influence? Don't think we'll ever know for sure...

Whether or not I can stake claim to the trend, I think 10 years is still worth celebrating - or at least worthy of a gift. Apparently the traditional 10th anniversary gift needs to involve tin. I imagine that a roll of heavy duty tinfoil will be in order pre-Thanksgiving anyway, so that's taken care of. Yet, if I go with the more modern theme option, I'm supposed to get myself some diamond jewelry.

This could get pricey.

Then again, I'm worth it.

Diamonds, Reynolds Wrap and a swirl of FroYo. Sounds perfect.

The Last of the Heirlooms

Boy, that went fast. It seemed like the Heirloom tomatoes of the season had just arrived and now they are about to fade away.

My favorite way to devour them this year? In salad form with a dressing of lime juice. sea salt, freshly cracked pepper, a pinch of sugar and a great deal of cumin, whipped to into a vinaigrette frenzy with good olive oil. I then add some chunks of rich avocado and a chiffonade of fresh mint.

Sounds delicious, doesn't it?

So, run out to the nearest greenmarket or produce stand and load up on the Heirlooms while you can. The season is all too short and these beauties are big on flavor!

Yes, Virginia, There is Great Mexican Food in New York City

I've heard many bemoan the state of the Mexican food scene in New York City. I'm sick of it! So is food writer Ligaya Mishan, who addresses the topic in the latest Hungry City column in the New York Times.

Admittedly, we don't live in Los Angeles or even Houston, where the Mexican culinary offerings are consistently top-notch. That said, please note that both of those cities are home to several branches of Taco Bell. (On the flip-side, I am always embarrassed that Domino's seems to thrive in the five boroughs. But, pizza isn't the focus today...)

New York may not have as many excellent Mexican restaurants, but it does have some -- and they are fantastic. In addition to the brilliant Mexican food trucks and carts that dot the city, NYC boasts some terrific Mexican dining spots.

First up, have you visited Sunset Park's Little Latin America? If not, I suggest a food crawl ASAP to tuck into Lengua Tacos, Carnita Tacos, Arabes Tacos and overstuffed Chorizo and Egg Tortas that will make you cry delicioso!

Looking for your Mexican in a fancier environment? Check out Hecho en Dumbo, which moved a while back to the East Village. Reserve a seat in the kitchen to enjoy the restaurant's Chef's Table five-course, which will set before you to a whole new range of Mexican flavors and textures. Fonda, with outposts in Park Slope and the East Village, is also a lovely spot to get some authentic Mexican dishes. And if you're in the Theater District, you would be remiss not to stop by Toloache, if only for an introduction to Mexico's version of the Ceviche, and an order of the De Lechon (aka Suckling Pig) Tacos.

Game for a trip on the 7 traib to Long Island City, Queens? Then, I strongly advise a visit to Casa Enrique. A photo of this Mexican jewel's Guacamole is above, but make sure to also order the Puebla dish of Mole De Piaxtla, a plate of chicken enchiladas enrobed in a vibrant, rich sauce of dry peppers, almonds, raisins, plantain, sesame seeds and chocolate, beautifully striped with a piping of sour cream.

So, move to Los Angeles if you must. That just leaves more amazing Mexican food in New York for the rest of us.